XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

Supercharger Rotor Coating and Coupler Shaft

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Old 11-07-2022 | 06:54 PM
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Default Supercharger Rotor Coating and Coupler Shaft

For anyone interested, I'm rebuilding my SC, and here are a few pix of my SC rotors at 52K miles. Since a lot of the Teflon coating is worn off of my rotors, it made me wonder if previously using CRC Turbo & Intake Cleaner to try to help with the carbon on the intake valves (before about half of my oil changes) had caused this, or if they would've looked like this even without CRC. My thinking is that if CRC had hurt the Teflon coating, it would've been consistent across the rotors, yet it seems like the coating removal has almost exclusively been at the close-contact/friction areas, which makes me think it's just normal W&T.





Initially, I was going to get the rotors recoated, but then realized that my new meth setup will eat the coating away, anyway. I've read a ton of info saying everything from A) losing the coating would cost a few psi of boost to Z) "While the water methanol injection will remove this coating, it has not proven detrimental or effected (I think they meant, "affected") the performance of the supercharger. This coating is designed to wear and will eventually deteriorate over time regardless if water methanol injection is used." As usual, the truth is probably somewhere in-between.

Regardless, I'm committed to the meth, so won't get them recoated, but just thought I'd share a condition report of my rotors at 52K.

Extra Credit: My isolator/coupler shaft is all groovy, thanks to the the defective isolator/coupler spring cutting into it. Does anyone (who knows about these things) think I should also replace the shaft while I'm doing the rest? I bought the "Global Genuine OEM Supercharger Rebuild Jaguar Land Rover Range Rover 5.0 TVS" from Quality Superchargers on eBay (high quality and highly recommend), and I think they also sell the shaft, but the shaft wear seems like a non-issue (Update: After looking closely at the first pic, I might order a new shaft).







Thoughts? Anybody want to know/see anything else before I put it all back together and forget everything?
 

Last edited by Reaxions; 11-07-2022 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 11-08-2022 | 09:28 AM
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Looks great and your pictures are also very nice.

The only comment I have is on my old 4.2L STR the rotor coating was worn in almost the exact same area as yours.
This was at about 125K miles on my old 2005 STR. The under SC hose had finally started leaking so the SC had to come off anyway. At that time I had a 35K mile blower that I swapped over just because I had it. It was originally going to be my core to get ported and upper pulley installed but with an M112 I decided that just was not worth doing so I just put the lower mileage blower on.

I could tell a difference in power right away. Not a lot but the car had a crispness to it that was not there before. So there is a slow long decay of blower performance as I would expect with miles/usage.
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Old 11-09-2022 | 07:56 PM
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Well, I tried to buy a new snout/coupler (isolator) shaft, due to the defective isolator/coupler spring cutting into it, but can't seem to find one. The LSA (CTS-V, etc.) and other similar shafts aren't compatible, SCOL (Superchargers Online) doesn't carry the JLR versions, and SCOL doesn’t even have a part number for it.

SCOL actually suggested just spinning the shaft 180 degrees, to the side where the isolator spring hadn't cut into it, or buying one of their solid (made in the USA) couplers. I really like SCOL, but both of those seemed like Band-Aid solutions, especially when I’ve read a lot about the issues with some of the solid couplers.

Since SCOL is the exclusive/official Eaton reseller for JLR SC stuff and they couldn't help, I actually called and talked to a tech guy at Eaton today, and he told me that they don't even have the shaft listed as an available part. When I told him that the TVS 1900 shafts are sold for other applications in which the defective coupler had also cut into the snout shafts, like the LSA blowers, and that the JLR shafts are obviously clearly still available for JLR blowers, as they come pre-installed in the new "whole snouts" available for purchase, he simply said, "Well, they sell a lot more of those cars, so they sell a lot more of those parts separately." Apparently, Eaton expects their JLR customers to buy a bunch of crap they don't need, just because one small part failed (due to Eaton's bad design). Grrrrrr. It reminded me of my local Jag dealer trying to tell me that I needed to spend $2.8K on a whole new driveshaft (parts & labor), simply because the driveshaft coupler (guibo), a $100 readily available part which was made available to other manufacturers for individual replacement, had failed.

Anyway, I'm supposed to email the Eaton guy, so he can do some deeper digging, but it's the same JLR runaround to which I’ve grown accustomed over the years, where nobody cares because there's not enough money to be made on us JLR owners. Sad.
 

Last edited by Reaxions; 11-09-2022 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-10-2022 | 09:12 AM
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Well great work again so thanks for the effort!
I sort of ran into that and just bought a complete snout as I got a deal on EBay for about $250 for one brand new in the box. In fact the really odd thing about that was the box was labeled made in USA? Which seemed very strange to have a UK car with parts made in the US-China yes of course.

Have you considered replacement with C2D52713? It's about $450 from Jaguar but they list it as a repair kit and not snout assy? So maybe Jaguar has made some changes?

SC Repair Kit
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Old 11-10-2022 | 03:09 PM
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Knowing what I know now, I probably should've just bought a new snout, but I've already bought and used some of the $270 SCOL repair kit (it includes other parts beyond the snout), so I kind of screwed myself out of that option.

While I'm waiting on Eaton to respond, I've been toying with the idea of applying some high-heat steel-reinforced epoxy to fill in the shaft grooves, sanding it down, and then putting the coupler over it (rotated 180°, so the spring end won't ever dig in). I'm not sure it would help anything and the RPMs scare me (not the shaft balance, but the epoxy breaking down at those kinds of forces), but with the isolator over it, it shouldn't really go anywhere (or not).

Why does owning a Jag regularly mean overthinking/improvising or overpaying? I guess I'm a glutton, as I seem to enjoy the continual challenge. Well played, Jaguar.
 

Last edited by Reaxions; 11-10-2022 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 11-10-2022 | 09:05 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'm planning on pulling my supercharger off and removing the solid coupler: I changed all the bearings in it but the (what I can only assume is) gear lash from the rear with the solid coupler makes my teeth itch.

Re: the epoxy, I took a nick out of the shaft on my first SC when I was trimming for a smaller pulley and just filled it with JB Weld. Never add an issue with it. Obviously the grooves in yours are deeper but I feel like the principle is the same.

Also if you are going to get a new snout, if you have access to a press you can do a lot worse than going for the Chinese snout copies off eBay which run at ~$150 each, and adding a rebuild kit with genuine bearings to the price. Still comes at quite a bit less than a genuine replacement, but with the important parts fixed
 
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Old 11-11-2022 | 09:06 AM
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Good idea but I would try a Speedi-Sleeve first??
It sounds like a hack but I have surprising good luck with fixing worn shafts. (Oops that sounds VERY bad!)

Speedi-Sleeve's
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2022 | 09:53 AM
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Reaxions, the reason you guys don't see me here much any more is that I realized that everything I needed to do was done and everything I wanted to do was too much trouble or too costly or both. Glad you're still having fun with yours. I just drive mine and enjoy it. BTW, the best $3,900 I ever spent in my life was the extended warranty I bought through Jaguar when I purchased the vehicle used. Covered me for 7 years or 100K mi. from date of purchase. I still don't have 85K on it, but that warranty saved me at least $10K over that time. Got a whole bunch of stuff replaced, including them rebuilding the supercharger, a new water pump and a bunch of suspension bushings, etc. in the last year. Had them replace all the plastic coolant hoses while they had it apart for an extra $1K. Now I just drive it like a regular car. Even put all seasons on it because here in Texas, I don't have enough curves to warrant performance tires and it gets a lot colder here so the all seasons work better. Glad to see many of the familiar faces are still here too.
 
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