A little while ago it appeared I may have to sell my 09 XF SC, still may but things are moving in the right direction. I was doing a little cleaning and detailing in case someone wanted to look at it and noticed the transmission cooler lines were just starting to seep/leak where the metal lines connect to the rubber portions. I wouldn't want to sell the car knowing there was a problem so I looked into it further. Well by the time I was able to undo and remove the lower cooler line from the rad I had removed the entire air intake system and the cooling fan assembly exposing the front of the engine. The service manual showed the engine had to be lifted to replace the trans cooler lines, wow! I removed both of the lines from the rad and then to ease removal I cut the rubber sections and pulled out the forward part of the lines. I wondered why they were leaking so I took my dremel tool and cut the metal collar around the rubber hose where it connects the metal line. To my surprise the rubber hose was simply crimped on to the metal line, the metal collar was simply a permanent clamp essentially! The metal pipe had the ridge for the rubber hose to slide over and be clamped down, so why not cut off the collars and clamp on new rubber hoses, if double clamped with each clamp 180 degs from the other it would be as good or better then the metal crimps. If the pipe did not have the ridge clamping on a hose would not have worked.

I also noted that the engine oil cooler lines were dirty/greasy where the metal and rubber lines connect together, no oil drops but obviously very slow seepage. These lines had metal crimps that were much larger and more robust than the trans cooler lines, due to the higher pressure I suppose.

Now that the car was apart I figured no point in leaving anything undone so I went ahead and ordered new engine oil cooler lines. I also figured I may as well replace the other wearing parts I now had access to :

- water pump and gasket
- thermostat and gasket
- supercharger belt, idler pulley and belt tensioner
- accessory drive belt, idler pulley and belt tensioner

I ordered all oem parts from a dealer.

Figured I may as well do a service and replace the trans pan/filter/gasket assembly as I had to top up the fluid anyway, ordered a case of Redline D6 ATF. Had to remove the engine oil filter and drain the engine oil so a new Bosch filter and 5W30 Mobil 1 will go in.

I drained the rad as well as the supercharger rad so bought new silicate free antifreeze.

All the parts have arrived except 2 of the engine oil cooler lines, they arrive on Mon.

Well, all the wear and tear items on the car will have been renewed, should be good for a lot more miles. The car already ran perfect and looked new inside and very nice on the outside. It has ebc red stuff pads and ebc rotors, new wheels and tires, Mina exhaust, man it could not be better!

Then I saw a forum member had a damaged black pack grill for sale which I could combine with my grill and make one whole one so I purchased it. I pulled off the bumper cover which allowed me to clean out the power steering cooler, supercharger rad, condenser and the main rad plus do some general cleaning in there.

With the bumper off I disassembled it, pulling out the lower grills and park sensors. The grills were dirty and a little scuffy from 72k miles of highway driving. I washed them really well in the kitchen sink and then dyed them black with stuff called Forever Black, man they look like new again! I polished up the chrome bits and when the black grill goes in (arriving Mon) the front of the car will look awesome.

I love this car, hopefully I will keep it a long time, if not some lucky person will get an awesome car.

 

The first pic is of the lower trans cooler line, the part that attaches to the rad, you can see the collar I cut off and a bit of the hose.

The XF is on Race Ramps at the front and on jack stands at the rear, had to make it level for when the trans fluid is replaced. Yes, there are 2 table lamps under the hood for good lighting!

 

More pics

The orange bit in the third photo is a Fram fuel filter all the other parts are oem.

 

Transmission cooler line repair is good as new! The rubber on the original lines had hardened up which lead them seeping/leaking. Replacing the whole lines is a lot of work and not necessary. If you have some miles on your car take a look from underneath at these lines to see if they are seeping. Its not like these cars have a transmission dip stick to easily check fluid level.

 

85 views of this thread and not one other post. Hmmmm, very engaging forum!

 

While you have your front end out I strongly suggest you remove the plastic hose that fits on the intake butterfly. Give it a good cleaning and spay with carb cleaner.
It does wonders at smoothing out idle.

 

Sounds like you are referring to the tube that runs from the intake to the drivers side cam cover, I took it off and it is clean, no build up in it. The engine has always idled super smooth.

 

Responses may be slow due to Holidays. I am impressed by your work and wish I had the ability to tackle this type of work. I saw the black grille and was considering it, but you're quick. Would like to see some pictures when you are done. I expect the crimping metal end is a way to save on parts and labor. Glad to see you are still able to hang on to your car and keep up the great posts. Makes for a great forum. Not sure what you do for a living but Jag maintenance could be a sideline job for sure.

 

In your pictures you have a yellow cloth in the TPS tube. Inside that tube is a brass butterfly. That area is always dirty with black carbon deposits. Cleaining it is very important.

Have you taken out your spark plugs? How elaborate is that work because I am wanting to give my car a plug cleaning?

 

Thanks! This type of work really is not all that difficult just very time consuming but I enjoy taking things apart and figuring out how how they work. I am no mechanic I assure you, my background is home appliance repair.

Repairing the trans hoses was a triumph for me, replacing the entire lines from trans to radiator require lifting the engine, they make so many twists and turns down there it looks impossible to replace them otherwise. Only a very small portion of the lines are rubber hose and as the metal pipes had that 'ridge' on them sliding on new hose a double clamping them it in place should be perfect. Essentially replicating the factory crimp.

I will post some more pics soon!

 

Thanks, I will check that for sure!

I replaced the spark plugs a little while ago with Bosch Iridium, found them pretty cheap on Amazon. You must reposition the coolant reservoir (if you have SC car) and then it is just a matter of pulling of the covers, removing the coils and finessing out the plugs. There is not a lot of room to work in there, it is a pain but can be done. Use anti seize on the new plugs and put a little di-electric grease in the plug boot to help it slide back on nicely.

 

At what mileage did you change in new plugs?

 

I changed them out at about the 68k mile mark, basically it came to mind one day so I went ahead and did it.

 

Here are the two engine oil cooler lines that finally arrived, I changed out all three (the long one is in the pic above with all the other parts).

I installed them today, you can see the trans cooler lines I repaired as well.

 

Changed out the trans pan/filter assembly and followed the ZF procedure to refill trans, took about 8 quarts of atf. They hold 10 quarts total so that is pretty good, last year I had the trans fluid changed out with a machine so it should be nice and clean in there now! The old pan had black gunk in the bottom and quite a bit all around the magnets.

It is actually not that bad of a job, looks worse than it is when you read the instructions.

 

I'm at 20K miles so I guess the plugs are just fine for now.
Great job on the tranny filter and fluid. I am a firm beleiver of doing this.

Did you get the ZF instructions from the internet? maybe gotta link for the future?

 

I have the service manual, but here is a document I had found on line.

I measured the fluid temp with a laser thermometer, check the pan temp, trans case temp and the temp of the escaping fluid. I let the temp of the dripping fluid get to 35 deg C and then installed the fill plug figuring the internal fluid temp would be a little higher which would put me right on the money.

To remove the fill plug I bought a stubby allen key set rather than buying the Jaguar 'special' tool.

 

When I looked into that aluminum tube there was nothing in it and clean, it must lead directly to the supercharger of course. Normally aspirated cars would be different, perhaps they are what you referred to?

 

Well I installed that used/damaged black grill I had purchased. The plan was to use my stock surround with the black grill part of the one I bought as the chrome surround on that one had accident damage.

Unfortunately the grill I purchased was not an oem Jag Black Pack part, it was assembled in a completely different fashion (the way the chrome surround and the grill part are put together is not the same as how the oem part is assembled) which means making one grill out of two looked impossible. The oem part is snapped together with tabs and is nicely done, the aftermarket one is simply screwed together.

The grill part is what is mounted directly to the bumper with tabs, the chrome surround is attached to the grill save for two screws into it from inside the bumper.

I mounted the black grill to the bumper cover minus the damaged chrome surround. Then cut off the mounting tabs on my original chrome surround which allowed it to sit against the black grill (the black grill did not have the holes for the mounting tabs). A combination of drilling small holes, small screws, zip ties and super glue and of course the two factory mount screws I managed to securely attach the chrome surround to the black grill and the bumper cover. Wow!

End result is it looks good but man!

 

Pics :