Has anyone had the tune from ECU Tuning Group done to their Jags? How does it compare to other tunes out there? I am looking to pull the trigger on this pretty soon and I would like to hear opinions on people who have tuned their Jags either by ECU Tuning or other outfits. TIA

 

One of the guys in the X351 XJ had his n/a 5.0L flashed with an ETG tune.

Have a look here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...arging-146027/

 

Had mine done by Jailbreak Tuning. Do a search for "Jailbreak Tune" for my post. There are a number of dyno charts, etc. to review. Really good guys to deal with. Car went from quick to "Oh ****" fast.

Have had absolutely no issues with the tune and the power band is huge. Really do love it.

 

the cost of the ETG tune is $995 - 10% for jagforums members. What did jailbreak Tune run? I tried checking out their webpage, but they had nothing up. Also, do they offer a "at home" tune like ETG? where they send the laptops and OBBII reader and walk you through the process? or do they have to have the ECU pulled?

 

Are you talking about Eurocharged or ETG? ETG used to be about double that price. The price you quoted sounds like Eurocharged pricing. But things may have changed...

At any rate Jailbreak can definitely do the laptop/OBDII remote tune. My friend did it not that long ago on his supercharged. Was very easy and trouble free. His eleven year old son set it up and they were done in less than an hour. He lives in VA, so we haven't had an opportunity drive them back to back. Don't want to specifically quote a price but it was in the neighborhood of $1,500. You can call Bobby at 949-385-2404 to get an exact amount. Let him know Brian referred you.

 

^^^^ you do realise Mr Cherry is looking for a tune on a Naturally Aspirated 5.0, not supercharged?

 

Sorry for the misread. Using the mobile app while walking the dog causes miscues. Thanks for informing me to pull my head out Cambo.

 

Lol..yeah..I am easing into this. This is a good way for me to transition into the higher HP jags like yours. Read your post on the Jailbreak tune. Awesome power!!! You actually swayed me over the edge in my decision to go for the muffler and resonator delete. I think I will add the Mina exhaust though. At idle the sound is disjointed and out of sync. The guy at ETG stated that their tune will pull just over 30 .hp and 32 lb-ft of torque. That puts me over 400 HP. Granted its crank HP, but it will be the largest HP output car I have ever owned and it already gives me trouble spinning the tires getting out of the hole. Having second thoughts on the K&N filters though. Reading about oil of the MAF sensors makes me nervous. Not much else I can do to squeeze additional gains other than wet it and I don't want to go there with this car. Yet...lol

 

I wouldn't worry about the K&Ns if I were you.
I've used them on my last four cars and only had a MAF sensor problem on the first of those, and it was my fault for over-oiling the filter.
As long as you are reasonably careful when applying the oil to a freshly cleaned filter (I use two quick passes of the spray can on each side, then give it a wipe around the edges) you should not have a problem.
And even if you do over oil the filter(s) the MAF sensors are child's play to remove and clean on the 5.0, just unclip the wiring plugs and remove two T20 Torx screws on each then spray the wires four or five times each with MAF cleaner, the whole job takes 10 minutes tops.

 

Check with your local Jag tech before running K&Ns. Mine recommended that I remove them because the MAF / intake system is super sensitive on our cars and is designed really for the OEM intake filters (which flow just fine). There are a few other Jaguar techs on this forum that IIRC will advise you the same (brutal, etc.). With that said there are some folks here I believe that are running them but if the pros that service these tell me I shouldn't run them, that's a pretty easy thing to avoid.

Also, my car had K&Ns when it was delivered from the previous owner and when I switched back to OEM filters I noticed 0 difference in performance or sound.

 

Did you remove the rear mufflers as well? I took out the center muffler and resonator, put in an x-pipe and removed the valve in the rear mufflers, but left the mufflers in place. Gave me a refined sound that isn't too loud.

As OZ said, just be careful. I put mine in just weeks after getting my car in Aug of 2013. Cleaned them recently and no issues. Make sure to dry the filters before you replace them. I actually used the rack for my dryer and put them in for a cycle then left them in the sun for an afternoon before replacing. If you've ever had a motorcycle you know you don't want to put chain lube on, then ride. Gets everywhere. Same concept with filter oil.

And OZ is again spot on about MAF cleaning. Takes no time at all and is really easy. Just buy MAF cleaner. Don't use other solvents.

 

I clean my MAF's once a year regardless....Even dust can build up on them that get's through the dry type filters.

 

I took the center muffler and resonators off. Mine doesn't have the valves in the rear mufflers like the XFS/C or XFR. The sound is crazy good when I am in sport mode and dynamic is on. Can't tell the difference if I am just cruising, which is disappointing. I figure the mina exhaust will give it the throaty rumble i am looking for at cruising speeds and while idling.

I get your analogy of oiling up a bike chain. Used to roll a Duc 900ss when they first came out. Mounted on Honda 600's before then. Too old to enjoy those rides now. Early 40's now and my hips just kill me after 20 or 30 minutes. Getting lots of opinions on the K&N filters. which is good since I really want to stay as problem (error code) free as I possibly can to avoid trips to the service bay since I decided that I will go ahead with the ETG Tune. Probably in the next month or two. I have a service appointment coming up to fix the circuit board on the reading lights (turn on by themselves in cold weather...yet another thing I learned about on this forum) . Once I get that out of the way, I will have Jags send the laptop and load this up.

Regarding maps: I am new to tuning, so do they upload situational maps or is it one thing? I mean...does the car run from one map during normal city driving..and switch to another map when it is pushed? or is it going to be wanting to jump out from under me at every stop light? I don't mind it if it will, but it would be nice to be able to know what to expect. I already realize this Jag is going to eat two rear tires every 4-6 months.

 

I'm sure from what I've read here, the people at ETG would be better to answer that question...

I will looking for your impressions of the tune once you get it installed...

 

If you're trying uncork a naturally aspirated engine then put in an x-pipe or h-pipe.

And if you want to take it further then look at changing your cats to something high flow.

Then look at a tune.

A naturally aspirated XK here in Sydney picked up some considerable gains with just these little things.

 

Remember that if you get more noise at cruising /idle, you'll get much more under throttle.

I still ride an 07 ZX-10 and I'm 46, 6'4" 250. I did modify the bars, pegs and seat to make it work though...

With regard to the tune, it will be optimized. Whatever gains can be made throughout the powerband through fuel and ignition timing management, that's what you'll have. I know with my pulley and tune, I've had to recalibrate my ankle/foot to push very lightly and in small increments unless I want real acceleration. I could take an inch or more of travel out of the throttle and never miss it 90% of the time. Very rarely do I hit the floor with it.

 

What would a X pipe or H pipe do that a straight pipe doesn't? I am wondering if the vacuum created by the X pipe is really going to make that much of a difference over the straight pipe. If high flow cats will not cause any codes to start popping up then I am open to the idea.

 

There is a reason why so many manufactures and aftermarket companies use x and h pipes. They really do work.

The car will not try and leap out from under you at stop lights (pun intended) it will feel the same as it does now.

Don't worry so much about the numbers. Numbers are for bench racing and dick measuring. What matters is how it runs, how it drives, feels and sounds. A good tune will improve all of those measures and make the car far more enjoyable overall.

High flow cats will increase the sound so be sure you're ok with that. They shouldn't cause any codes though.

Also, your car runs on one tune and will continue to do so after having it re-tuned. There is no switching back and forth. I'm speaking specifically to your case. Generally speaking(mustangs, cameras, corvettes etc), having multiple tunes available at a press of a button is possible, just not with our cars yet or likely ever.

 

Ok the reasons for fitting an x-pipe or h-pipe (also known as a crossover or balance pipe) are because of the firing order of these engines.



Two cylinders on each bank firing in succession, 7-3 and 6-8, the crossover balances out this "double pulse" down the one bank by relieving the pressure into the other banks exhaust.

If you can follow the firing order; left, right, left, left, right, left, right, right, this uneven firing between banks is what the crossover helps to smooth out.

X-pipe or H-pipe is a very standard inclusion on any high-performance exhaust system, and they do bring measurable benefits in my experience.

Exactly. In fact the XKR-S, the F-Types, they have an x-pipe in the exhaust from the factory.

As for cats, and throwing codes. Any decent tuner will be able to switch off the codes for cat efficiency, P0420 and P0430, so you can basically run whatever cats you want. The cats and tune basically go hand in hand.

Whatever you do don't try to cheat the downstream O2 sensors with extensions or minicats, this is not a good idea on these cars.

 

I have heard of 200 cell cats. Will those work for these XF's? Thanks for the schooling on what the crossover is for