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Hello all, I've been on the hunt for an (English) XFR for a little while now and have therefore been reading away about the various issues on these forums. For my budget, I can either have an early car with a low mileage or a later one with more on the clock. In particular, I'm considering a 2010 car with just over 40,000 and a 2013 one with just under 70,000. Both have full service histories with regular oil changes but neither has had any preventative work re the timing chains (I haven't seen one that has). I don't have any strong views about the looks of the pre/post facelift and am not tooooo bothered about the more up-to-date tech in the later car, my biggest concern is which is more likely to be a safe bet over the next 3 years and 30,000 miles or so. It seems to me that most people hit issues at 80,000 miles + so, on that basis, is the early car a safer bet? Any thoughts/advice gratefully appreciated!
It's a crap shoot, Paxo. I have a 2010 XF 5.0L, which is probably on top of the list of timing chain issues, and has 65K miles. I'm all about the saying, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Most of the advice I've gotten has been to keep an eye on the fluids (obviously), change the oil sooner than recommended, and listen to your engine. Others on here may not agree with this, but hey, isn't that what these forums are all about? Good luck with your choice!
Very good advice from Gyro! Great to see you doing your research too.
I would add the secret is to DIY the work with this forum as your back stop.
Just too expensive to use a dealer if your not under warranty.
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My 2010 XF V8 is running up towards 80k miles now. Never done anything on timing chain - nor honestly anything much else. Couple of coolant pipes last year and the water pump (twice in 10 years!). Little else
If it were me I'd go lower mileage. 30k is very little for a 12 year old car
But would definitely have a thorough inspection done.
Service records and oil change intervals are the key, you should choose whichever one has the better service records and more regular oil changes, preferably at least twice as often as the scheduled changes.
And private sale is better than car yard sale, a private owner has almost certainly looked after the car well while with a car yard it's a crap shoot it could well be a clapped out piece of junk bought by the yard at auction then cosmetically tizzied up and put up for sale.
Service records and oil change intervals are the key, you should choose whichever one has the better service records and more regular oil changes, preferably at least twice as often as the scheduled changes.
And private sale is better than car yard sale, a private owner has almost certainly looked after the car well while with a car yard it's a crap shoot it could well be a clapped out piece of junk bought by the yard at auction then cosmetically tizzied up and put up for sale.
What evidence do you have to support this information?
Mine is a 2011 5.0 with 58,000 miles. I can hear the timing chain noise especially on cold starts pulled the belt and started the engine to verify. Don’t follow the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” advice as it will 100% cost you an entire engine rather than a few hundred for timing chain guides/tensioners (DIY)
Currently I have no timing chain noise under my hood. The only noise I have are those noise injectors. Not everyone can jump in and replace these items on their own (speaking for myself, of course). Oh, and don't forget the cam sprockets as well. Would someone like to take a guess on how much the labor would be on this job? 25 to 30 hours, maybe? Beautiful car, by the way.
What do you mean by pulled the belt? Are you sure it's timing chain you hear, not the clatter of direct injection?
We looked into chain replacement for our Land Rover a few years ago (same 5.0 V8) at around 100k miles as you could start to hear it. If I remember correctly it was around 20 hrs at dealer rates. Think the total estimate was in the 5-6000 usd range. We felt it wasn't worth the cost as a preventative measure and just kept on driving...
Yes - possible to do diy although from people I know who have tried it, it's very hard and involved and prob takes you 2-3x that time if it's the first time you've pulled it all apart. And I don't know how you get parts for a couple of hundred dollars. I thought the full replacement of all parts needed was much more than that
If you do the job, would be terrific to document and post to the forum. Over time more of these will need it and it would be terrific to see the real world work to replace it
For now I'm sticking with if it ain't broke. Am at 75k miles in my 2010 and v happy with it.
Yes he knows more than the JLR engineers I guess. Changing the oil more often than recommended is a very easy thing to say but there is no basis for it, just wasteful.
Your best to listen to your car. You won't have any problems unless you start to hear noises. These are noisy engines because of the DI stuff so I find all modern engines to clatter a good bit more than I really want to hear!
But the timing stuff has a much different sound and if your interested there are a number of videos that let you listen to all the various noises. Your car but I change the oil at 6K-8K regardless of factory recommendations. The factory has different reasons for the extended drain interval compared to me as an individual.
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Yes he knows more than the JLR engineers I guess. Changing the oil more often than recommended is a very easy thing to say but there is no basis for it, just wasteful.
It's not that JLR don't know, it's simply that they are more interested in advertising low projected ownership costs for the first owner, and few failures during the warranty period, beyond that, they couldn't care less. OzXFR by contrast is offering sound advice for trouble free long term ownership.
and more regular oil changes, preferably at least twice as often as the scheduled changes.
Originally Posted by Etypephil
It's not that JLR don't know, it's simply that they are more interested in advertising low projected ownership costs for the first owner, and few failures during the warranty period, beyond that, they couldn't care less. OzXFR by contrast is offering sound advice for trouble free long term ownership.
And creating a lot of unnecessary waste. You are living in the past, the world of mineral oils. Things have moved on. If you don't believe JLR then I don't suppose you will believe Castrol either but your comments have no scientific backing.
And creating a lot of unnecessary waste. You are living in the past, the world of mineral oils. Things have moved on. If you don't believe JLR then I don't suppose you will believe Castrol either but your comments have no scientific backing.
Ah yes, "the science"; which in 1969 told us that ̶t̶h̶e̶r̶e̶ ̶w̶i̶l̶l̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶i̶c̶e̶ ̶a̶g̶e̶ ̶b̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶y̶e̶a̶r̶ ̶2̶0̶0̶0̶ then it was ̶g̶l̶o̶b̶a̶l̶ ̶w̶a̶r̶m̶i̶n̶g̶ then ̶m̶a̶n̶ ̶m̶a̶d̶e̶ ̶c̶l̶i̶m̶a̶t̶e̶ ̶c̶h̶a̶n̶g̶e̶ ̶ but the facts are: natural events over which we have no control and no measurable effect. More recently covid 19, ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶l̶a̶g̶u̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶i̶c̶h̶ ̶w̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶k̶i̶l̶l̶ ̶u̶s̶ ̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶u̶n̶l̶e̶s̶s̶ ̶w̶e̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶p̶i̶e̶c̶e̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶p̶a̶p̶e̶r̶ ̶o̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶o̶u̶r̶ ̶f̶a̶c̶e̶s̶ . an occasionaly unpleasant respiratory viral infection, so serious that most needed a test to confirm infection and more than 90% of sufferers over the age of eighty made a full recovery, etc.
There is no doubt that tribology has moved on since the days of mineral oils, and I have the greatest respect for Castrol lubricants however, there are some qualifications marked with *s to the Castrol "guarantee", including:
Extended drain interval of 20,000 miles or a full year*
* Whichever comes first
** As measured in the Sequence IIIH test vs. API SP test limit
*** As measured in the Sequence IVA test vs. latest test limit
**** In accordance with PAS2060. See www.castrol.com/us/cneutral for details on our Path 360 sustainability program
More to the point, the guarantee does not apply to an engine so lubricated, in fact it guarantees nothing at all that I can see.
03-01-2022, 08:12 AM
Timing chain issues: age vs milage
