Hello all, I recently attempted to change out my puddle lamp bulbs on my 2015 XF with Sylvania LED bulbs. When I checked the operation the bulb just flashed once and stayed off. I also flipped the bulb just to make sure it wasn't a polarity issue, same result. Is there a certain type of LED that must be used for this application? I was able to change the license plate bulbs with these exact LED bulbs without issue. Any help is appreciated.

 

I tried for 1/2 an hour to get the puddle light bulbs out. Can you share any tricks or tips as I gave up last time around....

 

I guess I should have mentioned this but I had the dealer do the work. My sales guy set it up if I agreed to give them 100% on a survey.

I also attempted to remove the bulbs myself but was unsuccessful. I asked them how to remove it and was told that the mirror housing has to be removed and the bulb housing pried out with a special tool.

 

I finally was able to remove puddle lights today. After getting the first one out and examining the housing and tabs the other side was a breeze.

Procedures:
1) Position mirror as far up as it can go.
2) Using a thin flat head screwdriver, insert into slot underneath the mirror.
3) This is the tricky part. Only the very top part of tab is accessible through slot making it difficult to depress tab. You must push in and downward to have enough force to depress tab. If done correctly the housing should pop out just slightly. Then from underneath the outside mirror housing you can use your finger nails or the screwdriver to remove the bulb housing. It should come out very easily, if not then the tab is not depressed enough.
4) Insert your bulb and replace housing by inserting front facing tab and then pushing up and popping rear facing tab into place, should snap right in.

 

They will fit. Because i have the same type in mine.

 

Thanks for that post & pics Gene.
I replaced my puddle light bulbs with multi chip SMD LEDs about a year ago, they look great, with a nice bright white light with blue speckles in it.
I could not get the tabs to depress no matter what I tried, including completely unhooking the mirror glass to give me more room and leverage. Now, thanks to your pics Gene, I can see that both my tabs were totally broken off and there was nothing left to depress!
In the end I levered off the bulb housings from the outside, using two small flat blade screwdrivers and a protective rag, took a bit of effort before they came off.
But they didn't want to stay fully in place when I reinstalled them (no surprise without the locking tabs), so I ended up carefully supergluing them back in place, and never had a problem since.

 

Glad I could help.

I have been trying for a few weeks now to get them out without breaking. I guess I got lucky or maybe the dealer loosened them up for me.

Initially I tried some Sylvania mini LED bulbs that look great in my license plate lights but for some reason would not work in the puddle light application. I did have some 10 LED generic bulbs that I got off of Amazon that work in the puddle lights. They will do for now until I can get some better quality bulbs.

 

Hi all,

I am new to this (great) forum and came across this thread on LEDs. I have a specific issue: my MY2010 XF has been facelifted to MY2010 (new bonnet, bumper, headlights, etc.). After the facelift, the indicator "tick-tack" sounds at a very fast pace. All indicator lights (outside and inside) blink at normal pace; it is just the sound that is very fast. Any idea about how to resolve?

The MY2012 indicators are still bulbs, right? So it cannot really be a load-thing that can be resolved with resistors (already tried to some extend) I think.

Many thanks!

 

Obviously I meant my XF has been facelifted from MY2010 to MY2012...

 

You might actually need some Load Resistors. I bought some to use on my '11 XFR, but didn't end up needing them. I did, however, help my buddy convert all of the lights on his '99 Porsche 911, and he was having the issues you're describing, and the load resistors I had laying around immediately solved the issue. The ones I used are these...

Hopefully I'm OK to post that link, as I'm not advocating for their use or being compensated - just trying to make it easy for you to see which ones worked for me.

Hope that helps.

 

Just what I was looking for. Thanks all for the great info. Much appreciated.

 

Thanks, Reaxions! Will indeed try this... Is it just fr the indicator lights or should I somehow also have these resistors parallel to the other lights when migrating from MY2010 to MY2012 headlights?

 

Unfortunately, I can't answer your question with any kind of surety. As I'd mentioned, I didn't use them on my lights, but on my friend's '99 911, I just threw them on the front and back indicator lights. And, on his, I just put them on the wires leading to the indicator bulbs, and nothing else. Keep in mind that I have no technical background when I say this, but to me, they just looked like they were acting like some kind of bridge between the two wires going to the indicators. Because they're so cheap and easy to install, I'd try the load resistors just on the indicator bulb wires, first, and then proceed with any additional attempted solutions, if that doesn't work.

It's been a while since I did most of the work to my lights/stereo, etc., so I can't remember all of the details, but I essentially upgraded all of my interior/exterior lights to LED, and installed HID high beams and a bunch of additional lights on the front of my car (as well as additional lights in my trunk), as well as an additional 139dB mini-air horn, primarily to blast people cruising in the left lane or jaywalkers ambling across 6-lane highways near my house, and I've set them up in a myriad of ways.

Regarding my exterior lights, I used a Kensun HID conversion kit for my high beams, which was ridiculously simple. I've got my Philips 8-LED DRLs mounted under, but outside, my dual air intake grilles (only one of the intakes is functional), and I've got some Optilux projector fog lamps (for which I swapped out the 55W halogen bulbs for some LEDs) mounted behind my lower center grille. Those two sets of lights (2 DRLs and 2 fog projectors) are connected to individual switches under my steering wheel, powered directly from the battery, and use a trigger from something (can't remember what) to make sure they don't stay on when I turn the car off. The fog projectors act more like accent lights, as they're behind the grille and not all that bright, but I can turn my DRLs on full-bright at night (I bypassed the control unit they came with), which really widens the light path ahead of my car and allows me to see better peripherally on curvy roads.

I also have some Optilux dual beam Fog/Driving lamps which I modded to run simultaneously (two bulbs in each housing are on at the same time). I swapped out the white 55W halogen bulb for a yellow 55W halogen bulb for the fog side, and changed the white 55W halogen bulb on the driving side for a cooler white 55W halogen bulb. I experimented with some 100W bulbs for both fog (yellow) and driving (cool white) sides when I had them wired to a switch under the steering wheel and powered directly by the battery, but because I had all 4 lights coming on simultaneously, and I didn't use thick enough wire for a 400W application, I kept burning through fuses and fuse housings (oops). I now have the dual Fog/Driving lamps powered through the front fusebox and triggered by my high beams, so when I light up the road at night, it really lights up the road (and rear view mirrors). The dual beam Fog/Driving lamps are mounted right next to my other Optilux lights, behind my lower center grille. In retrospect, I would've swapped the 55W bulbs for LEDs or used the 100W halogens with a thicker gauge cable, but because of where/how they're mounted and the amount of waterproofing I did to the housings, it would be a total pain in the *** the swap out the bulbs and re-aim. The real trouble I had with everything was the placement; because my Laser Interceptor transmitter/receivers need to be specifically and accurately positioned on my front bumper, without anything intruding on the signals, it didn't leave much room for additional mounting without significant cutting/fabrication, and, whenever I do anything, I try to make it as reversible as possible, without evidence that anything was ever done, and that can get tricky.

But, the best part of it, is that I can have all of my exterior lights turned on at the same time - heh heh heh. I don't have any decent pix of my lights because my phone's camera wasn't really up to the task, but I've attached the crappy one that I have. Maybe I'll figure out how to take some better pix and edit this post with them, whenever I get a chance.

Anyway, good luck to you, and let me know if I can help in any way.

 

Wow, that's quite some work you did Reaxions! Good to have your insights. I got my facelifted car back last WE and have been 'testing' the headlights against the original MY2012. The turn signals are fast flashing in the instrument cluster and sound is fast as well. This should be resolved with the load resistors that go in this Friday. These are my findings re the DRL in the new headlights:

Original MY2012:
* DRL dimmed on as soon as ignition on and main beam off
* DRL bright on when gearbox in D and main beam off
* DRL bright on when sidelight on
* DRL dimmed when main beam on
* DRL dimmed on one side when turn signal on

My facelifted MY2010:
* DRL dimmed on as soon as ignition on and main beam off
* DRL NOT bright on when gear box in D and main beam off
* DRL bright on when sidelight on
* DRL NOT dimmed when main beam on
* DRL NOT dimmed on one side when turn signal on

I would like to come as close to the original MY2012 as possible, but I reckon teh connection with the gearbox is a bridge to far. Or does anyone have an idea on how to use the D gear to make teh DRL bright?
The fact that teh DRL should be dimming when main beam on and when turn signal on, I think I will try to resolve with placing the Inlustro DRL dimmers (HOME - Inlustro) on. This would IMHO imply that I would need 3 dimmers: 1 connected to each turn signal and 1 connected to the main beam. Would that work?

This raises another point: can the DRL dimmers be used in conjunction with the load resistors for the turn signals? The load resistors should obviously be in parallel to the lights and the dimmer in series. Would this pose an issue?

The adaptive lighting (corner lights) are also not working yet...

 

Just ordered all the super white leds I need to replace those hideous incandescent lights on my 2015 XF. I will post pics of the changes as I make them. I Just don't get why Jaguar would cheap out on the interior and some ext lights on a $61K car. :-(

 

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread! I switched out my puddle/license/map(front/rear)/foot lights with white leds, I have a video if anybody wants to see what it all looks like, the video is a year old but I never posted it

 

Okay guys, What would be really really helpful for us girls is instead of pics on changing out leds does anyone have a Video tutorial (YouTube) on how to swap out the the footwells, Puddle lights under the mirrors and front light maps which is in the over head compartment among all the other switches. Just need to see how it was done on video. Want to do this myself without asking my husband. :-).. HELP...

 

Did you do the lighted visor mirrors also?

 

Have you read the whole thread? A lot of good pix to see.

 

Ahhhhh I'd really love to do the LED change out but I'm afraid of issues it might cause with the electrical system.

Is there really any reason to be concerned?