Upgrade from Premium to B&W Sound System.
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
. I have a 2010 XF which is a salvage title vehicle. It was stolen and the doors etc removed. The original vehicle had a premium sound system and was then replaced with the interior from an XF with the B& W system and has centre and rear parcel shelf speakers and all B&W units in the doors.
I obtained an amp for the B&W unit from a wreck and was assured by a Jag tech online that the radio module can handle B&W if it has the six CD changer, which it does.
He claimed just connect new amp, with additional inputs and upgrade software. My local Jag dealer switched amps and claimed he could not upgrade. I do not believe them.
Can anyone help me with this. What software upgrade will do the trick?
I obtained an amp for the B&W unit from a wreck and was assured by a Jag tech online that the radio module can handle B&W if it has the six CD changer, which it does.
He claimed just connect new amp, with additional inputs and upgrade software. My local Jag dealer switched amps and claimed he could not upgrade. I do not believe them.
Can anyone help me with this. What software upgrade will do the trick?
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't have the answer but I will say I am not sure why you wanted that sound system in your car. I find that it isn't that great. I wish the base had far more kick. I think I am going to rip mine out and put in something else. I find most of these stock car stereo systems are paper crap that are hyped as something amazing but I can put in a far superior sound system. Just my 2 cents.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My '12 B&W stereo sounds like crap as well. My front doors both have had major rattle issues from day one. Sounds like blown speaker. Am planning on taking to dealer soon as it is driving me nuts. For what I paid for this stereo I could have had a custom stereo sounding far superior installed for half the price. Not sure what I will do but plan on changing something after they fix this rattle. B&W in my opinion is not to the level of quality or sound for what they charge.
#5
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm currently working on a stealth bass upgrade to the B&W system. I think overall imaging and soundstage are pretty good, but not perfect. I'm using 3-channel instead of Dolby since I prefer a more "natural" sounding front stage.
I notice a severe roll-off of sub bass at about 35 Hz. It's possible that there is a subsonic filter built into the processor/amplifier, but I will find out soon. It could also be a function of the Fs of the B&W driver and/or subwoofer cabinet volume (or both). I am looking into one of two things:
1. Replacing the factory 8" driver in the ABS enclosure, dampening and reinforcing the enclosure, and adding a more robust subwoofer. With that, I will power it with a separate amplifier using the stock sub speaker lines as a signal.
2. Scrapping the spare tire and sub enclosure and creating a single 10" or 12" sealed box (likely downfiring) in the empty spare tire space... again, powered by an external amplifier.
More to come.
Erik
Mobile AVC
2010 XF S/C
I notice a severe roll-off of sub bass at about 35 Hz. It's possible that there is a subsonic filter built into the processor/amplifier, but I will find out soon. It could also be a function of the Fs of the B&W driver and/or subwoofer cabinet volume (or both). I am looking into one of two things:
1. Replacing the factory 8" driver in the ABS enclosure, dampening and reinforcing the enclosure, and adding a more robust subwoofer. With that, I will power it with a separate amplifier using the stock sub speaker lines as a signal.
2. Scrapping the spare tire and sub enclosure and creating a single 10" or 12" sealed box (likely downfiring) in the empty spare tire space... again, powered by an external amplifier.
More to come.
Erik
Mobile AVC
2010 XF S/C
Last edited by MobileAVC; 01-30-2013 at 02:32 PM. Reason: signature
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
MobileAVC,
I couldnt agree more with you. I think the subs in the doors need to be fixed to stop my rattle issue, but the sub in the trunk needs to be scrapped completely. Im going with a JL AUDIO CVS110RG-W6v2 10" SEALED PROWEDGE SUBWOOFER SUB which can fit in the rear of the truck still leaving adequate room to open spare tire compartment. I am using a signal sensing amp off the rear factory sub lines. With the battery located in trunk this is an easy simple way to get the bass I desire and not have to run anything to the factory head unit. I can also put back to stock if I decide down the road to sell the car and remove the sub. I think this combo will be perfect, as well give me full control of the sub level from head unit. Total cost will be roughly 1K with installation. The boxes are pricey, but a lot of bang for your buck. Let me know what route you decide to go . Curious!
I couldnt agree more with you. I think the subs in the doors need to be fixed to stop my rattle issue, but the sub in the trunk needs to be scrapped completely. Im going with a JL AUDIO CVS110RG-W6v2 10" SEALED PROWEDGE SUBWOOFER SUB which can fit in the rear of the truck still leaving adequate room to open spare tire compartment. I am using a signal sensing amp off the rear factory sub lines. With the battery located in trunk this is an easy simple way to get the bass I desire and not have to run anything to the factory head unit. I can also put back to stock if I decide down the road to sell the car and remove the sub. I think this combo will be perfect, as well give me full control of the sub level from head unit. Total cost will be roughly 1K with installation. The boxes are pricey, but a lot of bang for your buck. Let me know what route you decide to go . Curious!
Last edited by Sick XF; 01-30-2013 at 03:09 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Sick XF,
Being a small retailer and customizer here in NY, I have the luxury of trying many pathways to getting the bottom end filled out for the XF.
I have already hooked up a Vibe Audio UK LiteBox amplifier with signal-sensing turn on, and yes, we are fortunate to have the battery in the trunk. Power, ground, and sub speaker wires as high-level inputs = amplifier part complete.
I have a small TREO Engineering 8" subwoofer in a custom ported box tuned to 32Hz sitting on that back hump by the rear seats. It's better than stock, but the overall impact is not night/day. Again, I think there may be a subsonic filter in the processing stream somewhere.
My next step is going to be removing the spare tire and enclosure this weekend and assess the volume of our custom sub enclosures. If it's not worth pursuing, I will start on a custom-fit down-firing enclosure with a single 10" or 12" TREO Engineering sub. I'm most concerned with frequencies between 20-60Hz, as I feel that our cars are pretty flat and nicely balanced down to about 50 Hz. Keeping my sub below 60-70Hz should keep the front stage solid and not "pull" the sound to the back with a stronger subwoofer presence.
More to come!
Erik
Being a small retailer and customizer here in NY, I have the luxury of trying many pathways to getting the bottom end filled out for the XF.
I have already hooked up a Vibe Audio UK LiteBox amplifier with signal-sensing turn on, and yes, we are fortunate to have the battery in the trunk. Power, ground, and sub speaker wires as high-level inputs = amplifier part complete.
I have a small TREO Engineering 8" subwoofer in a custom ported box tuned to 32Hz sitting on that back hump by the rear seats. It's better than stock, but the overall impact is not night/day. Again, I think there may be a subsonic filter in the processing stream somewhere.
My next step is going to be removing the spare tire and enclosure this weekend and assess the volume of our custom sub enclosures. If it's not worth pursuing, I will start on a custom-fit down-firing enclosure with a single 10" or 12" TREO Engineering sub. I'm most concerned with frequencies between 20-60Hz, as I feel that our cars are pretty flat and nicely balanced down to about 50 Hz. Keeping my sub below 60-70Hz should keep the front stage solid and not "pull" the sound to the back with a stronger subwoofer presence.
More to come!
Erik
The following users liked this post:
JagginMon (02-11-2013)
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am VERY interested in what amp you got that feeds off the RCA or fiber line input from the stock amplifier into the sub. After listening to the stock system I found that using AUX I can boost the volume and get decent sound. I just find that the stock volume limiter really is irritating.
That being said I agree that this system isn't total crap but they really needed to give better options for tweaking the sound, the three bass, trebble and mid levels is weakauce. If anyone has dabbled in after market sound systems you will know that while this system isn't horrible - for the price it could be WAY better. I agree also that the highs aren't so bad, mids could be more punchy - kinda weak.
I would love to put my 10 inch JL into this car (right now it is sitting unused in my Hyundai Accent), so if you were able to bypass the bass and use an amp feeding off those lines to power a second sub please provide more detail. I really like to have a nice thump to my music be it rock, techno etc. and this car is really really missing some deep hard hitting base beats.
Again, if you haven't dabbled in aftermarket...you just can't possibly understand the joy of a 10 or 12 inch sub pounding the hell out of the lower frequencies.
So please provide some details for me.
Sorry I hijacked your thread my friend.
That being said I agree that this system isn't total crap but they really needed to give better options for tweaking the sound, the three bass, trebble and mid levels is weakauce. If anyone has dabbled in after market sound systems you will know that while this system isn't horrible - for the price it could be WAY better. I agree also that the highs aren't so bad, mids could be more punchy - kinda weak.
I would love to put my 10 inch JL into this car (right now it is sitting unused in my Hyundai Accent), so if you were able to bypass the bass and use an amp feeding off those lines to power a second sub please provide more detail. I really like to have a nice thump to my music be it rock, techno etc. and this car is really really missing some deep hard hitting base beats.
Again, if you haven't dabbled in aftermarket...you just can't possibly understand the joy of a 10 or 12 inch sub pounding the hell out of the lower frequencies.
So please provide some details for me.
Sorry I hijacked your thread my friend.
#19
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Only.thing i can recommend is a setup menu for dealer options in the SDD. Its normally done at the factory for these type of components, perhaps the tech wasnt familiar with those steps. Itz not exactly a common swap you are trying to accomplish. There may also be hidden menus in your deck...the x350 has a screen for specifically selecting amp, cd changer, phone module, etc.