Water Pump Failure
#62
Oh, for anyone that has a 4.2 engine, I suggest that you occasionally take a look at the S-Type forum (S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum) since that engine is discussed regularly over there.
Thanks for the referral......I was pretty sure that the 4.2 engine was similar to the 3.9 version, that was in the Lincoln LS, which I had one of for 9 years, prior to our XF.
#63
>I was pretty sure that the 4.2 engine was similar to the 3.9 version, that was in the Lincoln LS
Related to, but many differences, almost no parts in common.
The Lincoln LS 3.0 V6 was an exact match, though. Many people over on the S-Type list have replaced their 3.0s with Lincoln engines. Not so lucky with the V8s, however. Same with X-Types, many owners used Lincoln LS motors as replacements.
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Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
2015 JCNA National Slalom Champion Class M
Current: '08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green
Related to, but many differences, almost no parts in common.
The Lincoln LS 3.0 V6 was an exact match, though. Many people over on the S-Type list have replaced their 3.0s with Lincoln engines. Not so lucky with the V8s, however. Same with X-Types, many owners used Lincoln LS motors as replacements.
==================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
2015 JCNA National Slalom Champion Class M
Current: '08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green
#64
#65
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is your car still in factory warranty period??? if so then why are you at a independent. And there are other things to check and replace not just the pump if its leaking. there's no recall, tsb's maybe but if you're not in warranty that doesn't apply for a covered free replacement
#66
I was driving when the low coolant indicator came on. I was very close to my independent and pulled in. They took a look and gave me the diagnosis and said don't drive it. They also made some calls and found out my 4yr/50k warranty was good for 3 more days. I thought it had already expired a few months ago. I called roadside assistance and had it towed to my dealer (which is an hour away). All fixed. Free. Just not a good Christmas gift to have this happen. Now that I'm out of warranty, what's next?
#69
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UH NO, more like one or more of the plastic pipe is leaking, outlet pipe under super charger, heater pipe along back of engine. take your pic. I'm sure the water pump repair was good but pressure just goes to the next weakest leak in system
#71
My money's on misalignment of the plastic pipe and/or the two o-rings that go between the oil cooler outlet pipe and the rear of the water pump. It's a royal pain in the **** to get aligned at the best of times, and leaks are not immediately apparent as there's quite a lot of space there for coolant to collect before it runs out from behind the water pump.
I could honestly rant for hours about how terrible the design of the water pump and how it mounts to the engine block is. There's a special place in hell for the person that designed that getup with that many potential failure points and still thought it was good to go on a production car. Not to mention that the steel bolts that hold the water pump in torqued to a reasonable torque for the size of the thread means that with repeated torquings while you try to get the pump aligned properly can very easily strip the threads in the aluminum block. I've had to heli-coil all four water pump mounting holes on the front of my block.
I could honestly rant for hours about how terrible the design of the water pump and how it mounts to the engine block is. There's a special place in hell for the person that designed that getup with that many potential failure points and still thought it was good to go on a production car. Not to mention that the steel bolts that hold the water pump in torqued to a reasonable torque for the size of the thread means that with repeated torquings while you try to get the pump aligned properly can very easily strip the threads in the aluminum block. I've had to heli-coil all four water pump mounting holes on the front of my block.
Last edited by davetibbs; 01-18-2019 at 01:22 PM.
#72
My money's on misalignment of the plastic pipe and/or the two o-rings that go between the oil cooler outlet pipe and the rear of the water pump. It's a royal pain in the **** to get aligned at the best of times, and leaks are not immediately apparent as there's quite a lot of space there for coolant to collect before it runs out from behind the water pump.
I could honestly rant for hours about how terrible the design of the water pump and how it mounts to the engine block is. There's a special place in hell for the person that designed that getup with that many potential failure points and still thought it was good to go on a production car. Not to mention that the steel bolts that hold the water pump in torqued to a reasonable torque for the size of the thread means that with repeated torquings while you try to get the pump aligned properly can very easily strip the threads in the aluminum block. I've had to heli-coil all four water pump mounting holes on the front of my block.
I could honestly rant for hours about how terrible the design of the water pump and how it mounts to the engine block is. There's a special place in hell for the person that designed that getup with that many potential failure points and still thought it was good to go on a production car. Not to mention that the steel bolts that hold the water pump in torqued to a reasonable torque for the size of the thread means that with repeated torquings while you try to get the pump aligned properly can very easily strip the threads in the aluminum block. I've had to heli-coil all four water pump mounting holes on the front of my block.
#73
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not really, and when you get low coolant how long, how low, did it get trapped air in systemcausing hot spots. Also was the bearing out in the pump. It has been said that the bearing going out can create harmonics and cause cracks in the lower outlet pipe where it goes in the block. Which would explain almost always having to replace the outlet pipe and water pumps together for multiple leaks. The original have thermo welded seams and ar 2 piece. The new ones are one piece(SC only) without seams which are and have proven to be a weak area where they split. Just another reason i always pressure test again when done to see if there are some smaller leaks you wont see when looking at a larger one. And several times after repairs on test drives have another part like the bleed piep or heater pipe split. Another reason why i always include the bleed pipe wether leaking at this time or not because they tend to break on removal or shortly thereafter. And since theyre easy to replace theres no added labor only part cost. And of course there are always mechanics that wont replace anything other than a failed part even though you might be right back next week for a different part and more money. I wont do anything more or less than i would on my own car.
#74
Because the design of the water pump and how it mounts is inherently poor - maybe you were just lucky. Having a small plastic "extension" pipe joined at each end by o-rings, combined with the forces required to push the pump home with new o-rings fitted on the pipe - it's too easy for one of the o-rings to skew on fitting as the extension pipe moves out of line. It usually seems to be the o-ring between the pump and the plastic extension pipe rather than between the plastic extension pipe and the oil cooler outlet pipe, but may be that's just my experience. I've worked on a lot of different engines and this is by far the worst and seemingly error-prone mounting design I've ever come across. Either way, the number of problems reported by people over the years, along with the number of revisions of coolant pump has seen as JLR try in vain to address the problem is more than enough evidence for me that the fundamental design of the pump and how it mounts to the block is ****.
Last edited by davetibbs; 01-18-2019 at 02:20 PM.
#75
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I always use 3m silicone paste or you can use vaseline to the orings(always replace them) the normally asp. Cars are easy to see as you install the pump. The sc are done by feel. Make sure the tube is straight out and the high point of the cam on the black extension from the oil cooler into the back of the pump should be down and helps to hold the tube at the right height and stationary. I also lube the threads on the pump to prevent galling or seizing. Helps he next person to not snap a bolt in the block trying to remove it and the next guy might be me. the water pump bolts should be threaded into the steel shim gaskets 4-6 threads to hold them and his also eases assembly. Start them all before you tighten any one fully or youll have to many times loosen the bolt again
not the easiest water pump to install but there are way more difficult things to do on the car than that. Like that ^%$?* heater pipe on the back of the block.
not the easiest water pump to install but there are way more difficult things to do on the car than that. Like that ^%$?* heater pipe on the back of the block.
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TXFireblade (01-18-2019)
#77
#78
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no its not, and not even for an oil change anymore. Looks like either the 2 10mm bolts fell out in the rear or you hit something that broke the under tray mounts. I see the plastic around those 2 bolts in the rear broken most often. If they are still there and the tray is cracked most often you can secure with larger washers
#79
I would have hoped that they would have removed the undertray when doing this water pump work. To fully drain the engine block of coolant, you have to remove the undertray to undo a bolt in the engine block that get more coolant out. If they were already doing the water pump, it would been a good time to drain and refilling the system with new coolant since it doesn't last forever.
Last edited by lotusespritse; 02-05-2019 at 08:56 AM.
#80