Hello Folks, I decided to paint my calipers with red ceramic paint. I started by jacking up car and removing the lug nuts but to my surprise they would not give. No worries got my electric impact wrench and gave em a wack. I got one out but the others would not move. One of the nuts steel covers came of due to the high torque setting on my wrench but the nut did not move. I ended up using a 1mt torque bar with an extension pipe!!!! I had to literally stand on the bars to realease the nuts. To my surprise there was no rust or anything binding the nut just overtorque. I added antiseiz compount on the threads and after painting calipers torqued to proper 92psi.

My warning is check this out because if you get a flat and want to change your own tire you will not be able to with the car tools.

 

92 psi? Where did that number come from? Sounds like your dealer or whoever last touched the wheels overtorqued the lug nuts.

 

I always torque to 100 lb-feet.

 

For curiosity's sake, I looked in the owners manual:

"At the earliest opportunity have the wheel nuts
tightened with a torque wrench to 92 lb.ft
(125 Nm).
This torque must not be exceeded"

I guess the OP meant 92 lb/ft, not psi.

 

Torque wrenches readily available to the public for purchase are often just cr@p. I bought a cheap one and when after a correctly torqued wheel worked loose I had the wrench re-calibrated. It was waaaay off calibration The recalibration cost more than the original purchase price as the wrench basically had to be rebuilt. Before I bought a "proper" torque wrench I had never had a wheel come loose. Also, NEVER use an impact wrench to torque up your wheel bolts/lug nuts. Unless you have the proper torque limited extension stem there is no way to know the actual torque when using an impact wrench. Some professional tires installers won't trust a torque stem and just use the impact wrench to remove nuts or bolts, then only use the impact wrench to spin the bolt or nut into place before finishing with a hand torquewrench. My guess is you accidentally over torqued your wheel nuts by using an incorrectly calibrated torque wrench or an impact wrench, or somebody else did. If more than one wheel was like this then that is what happened.

 

Pics?

 

Yes sorry, I ment 92lb/ft. I did this with a torque wrench in the criss cross patern as per manual.

 

I see what you mean but I have an impact wrench with adjustable digital torque setting so problem was not the wrench.

 

How accurate is the torque setting? Digital readouts are not indicators of accuracy, they can report inaccurate torque just as readily as accurate torque. Never use an impact wrench to torque wheel bolts or nuts unless you have an accurate torque stick to use. Even then I'd use a hand torque wrench. My prediction is if you have that impact wrench calibrated it will be way off.

 

I used an impact torque adjustable electronic impact wrench to untorque. However, to retorque I used a digital calibrated electronic torque stick and did it by hand. 92lbs/ft.

 

Do you have pics of the painted calipers? Was it a time consuming job, other than getting the wheels off?

 

I will get pics up tomorrow. The results are awsome!!! If you want the job done right its time consuming and messy. I started at 11 am stopped for lunch and then did not stop till 6PM.

 

If you ever have your wheels removed and remounted by a shop for any reason, I highly recommend that you redo the torque on the nuts asap. I even take a torque wrench with me, and as soon as I get the car back, I pull into a parking spot to redo the torque.

Besides not being able to remove them later when the grease monkeys torque them wrong, improper torque is the #1 reason for warped brake rotors. And the monkeys know you will never pin the blame and cost of replacement on them -- so why do it right instead of easy?

The best torque method is to do it in stages and in a crossing pattern. I start with 30 lbs, 70lbs, and then 100ft/lbs. And after few trips in the car, I check again to make sure they are at 100 ft/lbs. Yes, it's a pain, but it's worth it.

 

Technically, wheel fastener torque should always be double checked within 500 km or so of any change. Probably less than that. I've seen recommendations as low as a 100 miles. But who does this eh?

 

Checking is of no use unless you release the lug and retorque....With such big wheels I guess once every 1000 miles is a good idea.

 

I had to make bolts at the lathery shop because of broken lug nuts in my jag.I have an impact gun and it puts out 400 NM torque and even that professional machine got too hot to touch during loosening bolts, stupid lazy tire shop tightened them so hard




I don't thin k there is a need for using power tools when tightening the bolts considering I could easily loosen my daily rides bolts byusing it's tools and factory settings are 140 Nm torque for my other car.
However, I do have torque wrench in my trunk too. I rely on my arm strengthand when I check the bolts using a tool I see all the bolts are as tight as they are supposed to be