On my 2009 xf my drivers side window failed and finished up in the totally down position. I had a look see and found that one of the wire cables that run inside the plastic sleeves was broken and the other was twisted and deformed.

These are the wires that coil around a grooved drum on the motor and they are connected to, and pull on the bottom of the window frame.

What are these wires called? Is there a proper name or part number for them and are they available as a separate part? I don't want to have to buy a whole assembly and if so, I'd look into making up new cables myself.

Any input much appreciated.

 

Further to the above, I rang a Jaguar main dealer here in Ireland and got a price on an entire regulator, as the cables aren't available separately. From experience, here in Ireland everything costs twice what it might in the UK, so armed with the part number, given rather grudgingly by the main dealer, I went online.

I sourced a used regulator from Eurojag, which will do me fine, especially as it was half the cost of the Irish equivalent, albeit used.

I'll lube the cables before fitting it and hopefully prolong it's life, but it seems to be a common failure.

Hey ho. For the record, the (Irish)part number is JC2Z31200.

 

Yes with window regulators it's better to just change the entire unit. It's pretty quick to do.
Thanks for the part number that will help the next guy!
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So my replacement regulator arrived on Friday and I fitted it this morning. It only took about 30 minutes and I now have a working drivers' window. The only thing I found was that the screw holes on the rails, (two on each, at either end) didn't line up when I first tried to fit it.

I had the window propped up in the fully closed position and left the prop in place, to aid installation. But the rails needed to move upwards inside the door to align the screw holes. But they wouldn't go up any further as the window was all the way up.

So, I took my prop out and let the window down about1/4 way and magically, the holes lined up. Seemed counter intuitive but it worked. Then after fitting, I connected the door card electrics, temporarily and tested it and it works perfectly. Quiet and smooth.

I also fitted my tow bar, all except for the actual tow ball and electrics. It was a bit of a faff with the need to remove the boot liner and the liners on either side. Then the rear lights had to come out, along with the bumper and the rear exhaust boxes. The actual cross bar that the tow ball fixes to was a tiny bit tight, but a bit of grinding on the corners at each end sorted that.

It was just a case of rounding off the edges to give me that tiny bit extra room. It's all in place now with everything reassembled and I hope to finish it off tomorrow.

PS. Pulling the rear bumper on my old XJ6, for the same reason, was a lot easier with none of the attendant dismantling. Basically two bolts and it slid right out. The chassis rails also had the holes for fitting pre-drilled. Just and observation.

 

Your hitch install would be worth a separate post with some pictures from the sound of it!
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I had considered documenting the procedure, but had my hands full just doing the job. It's very DIY if you can handle a spanner etc.

The basic running order is; Remove the boot floor liner. It just lifts out, after you remove the two plastic stud retainers, accessible when you drop the back seats. Remove the two boot liners, right and left. These are also held in place with studs and it helps, especially with re-fitting, to remove the black plastic trim that runs across the boot lip, above the bumper. Held in place with a few plastic screws along the lower inside lip. Remove the screws and the cover pulls up and out, over the lock mechanism.

With the interior side trims removed, you'll see, on each side, the three nuts that hold the rear lights in place, along with another, different style nut that holds the bumper in place.

Remove the nuts and the tail lights just come away. Unplug same and stow safely!!

Remove the two small (8mm) screws with large washers on each side of the lower wheel arch cover and another such screw on the underside of the wheel arch/ bumper, right at the lower corner. There are also two plastic studs on either side of the boot opening, just at the top edge of the rear lights. Remove these.

Then remove the four plastic screws on the bottom lower lip of the bumper trim piece. This is the section of the bumper that runs between the exhaust pipes. The bumper will now come away and is only held in place on 5 tangs up along either side of the bumper, where it meets the actual car bodywork. It's the diagonal joint along each side. You just have to be brave and pull outwards on the bumper. It will come away quite easily. An extra pair of hands is useful to stop the bumper falling and being damaged or scratching against the car. When re-fitting, I found that the tangs lined up easily top and bottom, but one or two along the mid section got caught up a bit, as they weren't properly aligned. A plastic trim tool/spatula helps to encourage them into the right position. If it happens, you'll know what I mean. Lift the bumper away, being aware of the reversing sensor plug. Disconnect same.

To fit the tow bar, you need to access the rear ends of the chassis rails, so the exhaust/s need to be removed. No harm to mark the exhaust joint for proper alignment, prior to removal. Slacken the nut (no need to remove it fully) on the exhaust joint back near the diff and prise the clamp apart. The clamp is spot welded onto the exhaust pipe. Remove the rubber hanger at the rear of the exhaust, but no harm to tie the exhaust box up, loosely, onto the metal bumper. It's kind of heavy and unwieldy and this allows you to jiggle and rotate the exhaust to separate it. Once removed, prise the slots in the pipe at the clamp, slightly apart and this will help with re-fitting. If you have two exhausts, repeat for both sides.

Inside the boot floor, up on either side of the wheel well you may need to identify a pair of small dimples, approx. 8" apart. This is where you need to drill 19mm holes to fit long bushes and bolts. Apparently, later year models may already have these holes in place. My 09 didn't.

Down below, and under the car,on the rear edge of the chassis rails, are a pair of brackets, (alongside the outside of the wheel well). These brackets bolt up into the chassis rail using two 13mm bolts and one other bolt that passes through the actual metal "bumper" bracket. ( This is why you have to remove the exhausts)

Remove these brackets and keep the two larger 13mm bolts for re-use. These brackets will be replaced with the larger, heavier duty versions that come with the tow bar. Temporarily fit the new brackets and mark where they cover the heat shield. Remove the brackets and cut off any heat shield material, so that the heat shield isn't sandwiched between the new brackets and the chassis rails. With this part of the heat shield removed you should see two corresponding "dimples" on the underside of the chassis rails. Drill 13mm holes in these dimples to allow the long bolts to pass down through the chassis rails. Fix the new brackets in place with the original 13mm bolts. The original "third" bolt that went through from the rear isn't used and is replaced with a heavier nut and bolt that comes with the tow bar.

Pass the long bolts down through the chassis rails, using the long bushes and large washers on top. These bolts pass through holes in the new brackets. Tighten up the brackets, using washers provided.

The actual tow bar (the one that the tow ball fits onto) is bolted in place between these two brackets. Again, another pair of hands will help as it's heavy and a bit awkward. As mentioned, I had to grind a tad off the outer end corners as it was a tight fit where the cars' bumper metal bar curves in slightly at each end. This didn't compromise the integrity of the tow bar in any way.

Bolt everything up and then re-assemble in reverse order. I replaced many of the little plastic screw fittings with better, heavier duty versions that I got in a local motor factors/ auto store. They are a better design and quality and hold much better as you can tighten the plastic screw more effectively.

I think that's about it. I will be removing the bumper again at some time, to clean up and paint the metal bumper bar on the car. It was a bit cruddy and showed some surface rust as a lot of water etc. seems to make its' way up in there when driving. I'd have liked to have done it first time around, but I was up against time.

So, that's it, according to my dubious memory.