XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

XF Reliability and Maintenance costs

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  #21  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:37 PM
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As far as I know, the differential problem should be a one time issue.

With regard to the Premium Luxury car, I really don't know exactly how that would be equipped. I know there is the Portfolio that adds many of the features on the SC and XFR with the NA 5.0 engine. I like a lot of those things and have driven the lower spec. cars as loaners and it isn't the same experience. Are there any 2011 SC models available? They would give you the best blend of price and performance. But if you can afford the XFR, I'd do it in a second. My friend has a 2011 SC and it's a nice car, but visually it doesn't have the extra flair of the XFR.

As far as warranties go, the coverage I have is through Jaguar (copy of sample contract is attached) and is 84 mos. from the day I bought it, not the date of service, or 100,000 miles. So I have coverage until 2020 or 100K miles. Since I use mine sparingly, it should last most if not all of the time I own the car (only have 37K now). It cost $3,970 dollars and has no deductible through a Jag dealer. It's also transferable and you can quit at any time and get the unused portion refunded. It is what's known as an exclusionary warranty so there is a long list of items not covered (review the T's&C's of the sample). Most systems are though, and from what I've read, the differential would be covered. I would think it should be that way on the Certified warranty as well, especially since it's part of the powertrain and not a wear item. I would check to see if the dealer could forego the Certified coverage and see if they can just get you an extended warranty like mine. Gives you so much more time. Although now that I think about it, I believe the vehicle had to still be under factory warranty to be eligible for the coverage I bought.

Did you drive the NA 5.0 car yet? Did it have enough power and did the car feel nice enough for you ie. suede headliner, leather quality? If so, definitely go that direction. I drove one as a service loaner and it had the same character without the outright speed and OMG factor that the XFR has. It was nice but not special. You should be able to purchase a warranty like mine (although not sure if available in Canada) to extend you out for as long as you think you'll own the vehicle and still have money left over. If it didn't do it for you like the XFR did, that becomes more difficult.

With the 62K km on the 2011 XFR, you will only have about 22K miles (28,500 km) left of warranty if it's the same as our 50K mi. warranty. That's only about the same amount of coverage left on the 2010 XFR, but doesn't include all the extra coverage of the original factory warranty or scheduled maintenance. You'd want to have an independent shop check out the 2010 to make sure there was nothing you weren't buying that couldn't be fixed under the Certified warranty ie. dash, trim, etc.

I know this sounds obvious, but which one do you like the color of more on both the exterior and interior? Plays a big part on how you feel about it, how long you'll keep it and also affects resale value as well.
 
  #22  
Old 12-24-2013, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Executive
[/LIST] Your must be getting your numbers from the same place. $1800 for warranty? Where is it from Jiffy Lube or Pep boys?

If you want up to 100,000 mile warranty, it's about $3800.

And, it's the little things that cost money. Like an overhead console, which is a known issue, $1000 to replace.

Two minor visits to the dealer and you can be easily in $3000-4000 territory.
First of all, go on Autotrader or whatever. Compare the prices for two similar cars with 30~40+K miles one with and one without Jaguar Select Certified Pre-owned warranty. You'll see that the price difference is between about 1800 and seldom more than about 2500.

When you don't have warranty, you also don't have the need to go to the dealer. I am perfectly comfortable with a 3rd party mechanic. $3000~4000 is what I pay for a full transmission tear down and rebuild. $3000~4000 is what I'll pay to have the engine torn down, the bores refinished, the pistons/rings replaced and bearings swapped out. $2000 is what I'll pay for a blown supercharger. I don't know about you, but I don't plan on doing that on ANY car on a yearly basis.

A more typical thing like a bad starter, blown alternator or a leaking water pump will run you a few hundred dollars -- $400~800. And even these don't go kaput every year.

I typically plan on a major repair once every 10 years and the $400~800 stuff maybe once or twice during that period. Other than that it's consumables... brakes are about $250 per axle and that's with premium pads -- $150 for EBC Red Stuff pads and $100 for somebody to put them on and resurface the rotors. You can reuse the rotors about twice. If you need new ones they are $350 a pair; $400~450 if you want the slotted or cross drilled variety.

I have owned an Audi S4, a M-B C55 AMG, and an XF Supercharged. I have never spent $3000~4000 a year on any of these cars. $3000~4000 may be what I spent in 4 years. And that includes the oil changes and scheduled maintenance done with Mobil One Synthetics, brakes, tires, etc.
 
  #23  
Old 01-04-2014, 04:44 PM
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Sorry about the delayed response. After much deliberation I opted to go with a 2011 Jaguar XF (5.0L v8). Comes with 2 year factory warranty and platinum maintenance, 20,000 Kms.

Ill post some pics soon =)
have a quick question: Is it possible to check for maintenance items on the touch screen. On my bmw i can access the Idrive system and check for maintenance stuff like when the oil changes are due, when the brakes need replacement etc. Just wondering if Jaguar have a similar system? When i switch on the car, a light pops up saying "service required." I want to know what specifically needs serviced.

I got an appointment to get it serviced for next week. Just need to be sure that its safe to drive till then.

Im loving my new jag -=)
 
  #24  
Old 01-04-2014, 11:00 PM
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You didn't get a maintenance manual? that typically tells you what services are needed for the mileage of your car. Just make sure you're looking at the right one, it looks like the 5.0 engine needs less frequent maintenance than the 4.2. I'm due for my 45k service, I'm debating on where I should take my car. I'm thinking the dealership since it is the first time I'm bringing it in for maintenance since I just got the car not to long ago. I also plan on getting new tires soon.
 
  #25  
Old 01-05-2014, 04:07 PM
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I know this is a little off topic, but I just got a message on my XF that it's due for scheduled maintenance in 2,000 miles which would put my car at 6,000 miles but I didn't see anything in my owner's manual/pamphlets about a 6,000 mile service. The first one is for 16,000 miles, so does anyone know what this service at 6,000 miles is for?
 
  #26  
Old 01-05-2014, 05:11 PM
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It may be the one year notification. Service 1414. I got mine at 6500. When I took it in, they did a multi-point inspection, changed the oil, K139 FCDIM update with BT pop up software.
 
  #27  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:24 PM
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Thanks for the info, that sounds pretty normal, I guess I'll have to give my dealership a call.
 
  #28  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:37 AM
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I bought my car used with 19k Kms and no i didn't get a maintenance card. I scheduled an appointment for this friday =)

Another question: The handling on my XF is rather sloppy to the extent that i'm scared to push/floor it. On wet surfaces and snow it's understandable but even when i push her on dry surfaces the back end slips to right (slides/drifts) and i have to release the gas to bring it back in control. I have Bridgestone Blizzaks on 18 inch factory specs winter tires installed.

I drove at least 6 other XF/XFR before buying mine and none of them did this - they all seemed quite composed even when i pushed them. Am i the only one or is this normal for this car? Any remedies??
 
  #29  
Old 01-09-2014, 01:30 PM
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Is the traction or DSC disabled?

You shouldn't be able to slide the car at all, even to the slightest degree.
 
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2014, 02:51 PM
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The traction control is on. Had a question about that too: what's the difference between DSC ON and Trac DSC. Which one gives me more traction?

Car has the platinum warranty on it; taking her in tomorrow to find out why this is happening. Tried it again today: can't floor her (no traction what so ever), can't corner her either. Have to drive her constantly with winter mode on, NO fun at all =( ...
 

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  #31  
Old 01-09-2014, 03:28 PM
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Trac DSC completely removes any electronic aids. That's the only time you would be able to fishtail - when it's disabled. Which is activated by holding the traction control button down for full 10 seconds.

DSC just gives you little more room to flex the car's muscles. But, from my personal experience, it barely makes any difference as the second the car looses traction, electronic aids take over.

I would definitely bring the car in as i think it's quite dangerous to drive around all the time without any aids.
 
  #32  
Old 01-09-2014, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply Executive.
So i got a bit confused by your post. Trac DSC switches on if i hold the DSC button for 1-3 seconds. Default is DSC on. and by holding for 10 seconds DSC completely switches off.

I agree that it's dangerous. Been scared to drive her and its snowing like crazy here now (it slips on dry surfaces too). DSC light comes once i start slipping but thats when the car completely loses control. Hope the dealer can fix this and that the handling is truly better than what im experiencing.

Thanks
 
  #33  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:09 PM
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You are right to question Executive's reply, he has it wrong. There are 3 settings of the DSC system, all controlled by a single pushbutton. The normal setting with no lights on either on the console or within the tachometer is DSC ON, which gives the most conservative "nanny" control of wheelspin and sideslip, although you can certainly make the car fishtail even on this setting. The intermediate setting is Trac DSC, which allows for a good deal of wheelspin and sideslip but intervenes when things get seriously wrong. This is the setting you get with a 1 second push of the button and gives the light both on the console and inside the tach. The third setting, which Jaguar would prefer you never use and therefore made "hard-to-get," is DSC Off and it completely shuts off all Dynamic Stability and Traction Control and allows you to get into very serious trouble almost before you know it. This requires an 11 second hold down of the button and gives a special message in the tach. This is what you would use if you're still into "laying rubber." It sounds very much like something is wrong with yours. This could explain the early "service required" message.
 
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by arsalanhashmani
Thanks for the quick reply Executive.
So i got a bit confused by your post. Trac DSC switches on if i hold the DSC button for 1-3 seconds. Default is DSC on. and by holding for 10 seconds DSC completely switches off.

I agree that it's dangerous. Been scared to drive her and its snowing like crazy here now (it slips on dry surfaces too). DSC light comes once i start slipping but thats when the car completely loses control. Hope the dealer can fix this and that the handling is truly better than what im experiencing.

Thanks

I apologize for the confusion. It's the other way around.


Trac DSC takes off some of the sensitivity. DSC completely removes all electronic aids.
 
  #35  
Old 01-13-2014, 02:56 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. Got my car back from the dealer yesterday. Even though the car sits at 22,000 kms they performed the 42,000 kms service since the interval is 24K or every year.

About the sliding issue - the dealer informed me that nothing is wrong with the car and everything is normal. After i took possession i tried it out again for myself and i already see a huge difference. I am no longer scared of my beast - in fact im beginning to love it =)

PS. my best guess is that my tire pressure was out and the kind of tires i run aren't that good on dry surfaces. I am running 18 inch bridgestone Blizzak LM 60 performance winter tires.

Thanks again guys
 
  #36  
Old 01-20-2014, 10:40 AM
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So I called my dealership and and told them it said my car was due for service but they told me it's based on time(and I guess it assumes you'll drive x amount of miles in such a time). I'm guessing the clock starts once it leaves the factory, I don't know how long mine was on the lot before I picked it up. But the one day I drove it it said service in 1850 miles, then I didn't drive it for over a week and it went to 1250 miles. I've had it for 6 months but I only have a little over 4,000 miles.
 
  #37  
Old 01-20-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dwightlooi
First of all, go on Autotrader or whatever. Compare the prices for two similar cars with 30~40+K miles one with and one without Jaguar Select Certified Pre-owned warranty. You'll see that the price difference is between about 1800 and seldom more than about 2500.

When you don't have warranty, you also don't have the need to go to the dealer. I am perfectly comfortable with a 3rd party mechanic. $3000~4000 is what I pay for a full transmission tear down and rebuild. $3000~4000 is what I'll pay to have the engine torn down, the bores refinished, the pistons/rings replaced and bearings swapped out. $2000 is what I'll pay for a blown supercharger. I don't know about you, but I don't plan on doing that on ANY car on a yearly basis.

A more typical thing like a bad starter, blown alternator or a leaking water pump will run you a few hundred dollars -- $400~800. And even these don't go kaput every year.

I typically plan on a major repair once every 10 years and the $400~800 stuff maybe once or twice during that period. Other than that it's consumables... brakes are about $250 per axle and that's with premium pads -- $150 for EBC Red Stuff pads and $100 for somebody to put them on and resurface the rotors. You can reuse the rotors about twice. If you need new ones they are $350 a pair; $400~450 if you want the slotted or cross drilled variety.

I have owned an Audi S4, a M-B C55 AMG, and an XF Supercharged. I have never spent $3000~4000 a year on any of these cars. $3000~4000 may be what I spent in 4 years. And that includes the oil changes and scheduled maintenance done with Mobil One Synthetics, brakes, tires, etc.

I don't have to look it up, i am already well informed. The extended warranty through Jaguar is about $4000, i don't care what Autotrader has the car listed as.

You plan on cheapening out on the car by resurfacing rotors, then yes those numbers might work. And, something else you didn't know, you can add to your $800 bill - brake sensors. It's about $300 for all four corners.
 
  #38  
Old 01-20-2014, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bellanca_XF
So I called my dealership and and told them it said my car was due for service but they told me it's based on time(and I guess it assumes you'll drive x amount of miles in such a time). I'm guessing the clock starts once it leaves the factory, I don't know how long mine was on the lot before I picked it up. But the one day I drove it it said service in 1850 miles, then I didn't drive it for over a week and it went to 1250 miles. I've had it for 6 months but I only have a little over 4,000 miles.
That's quite weird. My best guess is that control module that spits out the warning light might calculate time by both mileage and years. For example, my car when i bought it had 19000 kms. at 20,000 kms the service light came on - the car was sitting for about 4 months before i purchased it. Took it to the dealer who said first service was already done and theyll be done the second one under platinum warranty. Even though service intervals are 24,000 kms my car had the light on twice even before the first interval was reached.
My conclusion: because jag recommends service every 12 months or 24k kms, the service light might pop up when either of the two is reached. In your case, its quite likely that you had yours serviced/picked up/manufactured about 10-12 months ago?
 
  #39  
Old 01-21-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by arsalanhashmani
That's quite weird. My best guess is that control module that spits out the warning light might calculate time by both mileage and years. For example, my car when i bought it had 19000 kms. at 20,000 kms the service light came on - the car was sitting for about 4 months before i purchased it. Took it to the dealer who said first service was already done and theyll be done the second one under platinum warranty. Even though service intervals are 24,000 kms my car had the light on twice even before the first interval was reached.
My conclusion: because jag recommends service every 12 months or 24k kms, the service light might pop up when either of the two is reached. In your case, its quite likely that you had yours serviced/picked up/manufactured about 10-12 months ago?
I guess I could look on the door to see if it has the month it was manufactured, maybe it's close to being on year, but still it should be twelve months from when it was purchased or at the mileage listed in the service book. As I told the service department I don't want to bring it in and then have to bring it in in another four months when one year is up.
 
  #40  
Old 02-14-2014, 11:05 PM
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[*]In general, unless you blow up the transmission or engine, extended warranties do not pay off. You are better off saving the money up front and paying as you go if you need to fix something. That's why they sell it![/LIST][/QUOTE]
Agree with all but your last point. My extended warranty was $2500 and it covered a $1500 strut and a bad column switch. I probably shouldn't be bragging about that though cause the strut went out two weeks from,purchase dateI figure anything major goes out, it cant hurt to have it there if for nothing else the peace of mind.
 


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