He didn't. In looking at his prices they seem reasonable and he didn't nickel and dime on parts like gaskets, o-rings. Or the dealers BS 10% for shop materials.

Posting pic to compare prices

 

Question did that clunking go away at all i have the same issue but the clunking goes away after i rev the engine over 2k rpms also it only clunks on warm start up not on cold start up

 

It went away at higher rpms, and cold starts.

I think the increased oil pressure helps the tensioner create more tension on the chain.

It was a stretched chain on the passengers side.

 

Is there any way i can test to see if its really that

 

I used a simple auto stethoscope and could here it on the passenger side, but not the drivers. I also paid the dealer $150 to inspect i, and they had the same conclusion. It's common on the 2011 and 2012 supercharged jags and range rovers

 

Yea i hear it on the drivers side where the oil cap is so how much did u pay to repair it

 

Remove the oil cap and you can see the chain. Press on it to see if there is slack. Either way, it probably needs replaced if you hear it.

I paid $4,500 to an indi and he replaced everything including the cvt. The dealer wanted $6,500 for chain , tensioners, and guides.

 

So it has to have no play at all? I did that and it does have slack on it

 

It shouldn't have a lot of play. My driver side was fine and didn't have slack. You can check it when it running with the cap off. Do it quick... the engine misfires due to the vacuum leaked caused by the oil cap off.

 

Yea i already did that i took a video of it but how can i post it here

 

Not a clue

 

Do u have any idea what makes that knocking sound just is it the cam or the valves

 

ok let me see if this works i uploaded the videos on youtube this video here is the cold start


this one here is the warm start


this one here after the warm start i tried checking the slack on the chain but i couldnt get my finger in there so i used a screwdriver


lets see if the links work let me know if you see them

 

have a look on this youtube video :


Although I don't understand one word of russian language pictures will tell you
clearly the cause of the engine noise.
- stretched chain
- tensioner piston grooved into tensioner blade.
- malfunction of the spring / ratched mechanism inside the tensioner because stroke of piston is exceeded
by groove into tensioner blade and stretched chain.
- unsufficient preload of timing chain during low oil pressure conditions (startup , idle) results in rattle noise.
- possible damage of VVT gears due to chain rattle (shown in another video)
To get rid of this problems new tensioner blades with a steel insert at the piston contact
surface are shown as well as modified tensioner units with a different angular position
towards the tensioner blade (more or less spring preload on timing chain ?).
Hence getting the correct (newer) spareparts will be important to hopefully do the job only one time.

Regards
Ulrich

 

Ok i see whats going thanks for sharing this vid I appreciate it

 

It's the chain slapping.

 

Thanks shadow well i dont know if i should try and attempt this myself or take it to a shop

 

It's do able, and there is a a PDF out there if you google. You can buy the timing tools off eBay or amazon.

My indi used a liquid gasket. Not your standard stuff. It's gray in color and seals well. Just remember to depressurize the fuel pressure. It's at 1500 psi and can hurt you.

I priced the parts and my coat was the deciding factor.

http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-t...-v8-awd-2009_/

 

See above

 

I'm a master Jag/Rover tech.

I'd take Shadow993 advices with a grain of salt. You can say, it's full of...
What does he say.... Shitake

The fuel pressure maybe high... Just slightly Crack the nut and let it
bleed, the fuel line is small, nothing is going to happen. Now if your fuel line is as big as a fire hose with 1500+ psi, then I'd be careful.

Erobles396010 perfectly explains what's causing the noise. I've seen chains slapping so bad that it'll damage the VVT (not cvt like shadow993 explained it) sprockets.

It can be as simple as

If there's noise and you have no slack in the chains, you might be able to get away with just the tensioners and guides,

To

Everything timing related with vvti gears.

To....

While preforming the timing chains, the fuel pump tensioner are bad.... Then the motor has to come out and taken apart (I hope this doesn't happen to anyone) to replace the fuel pump tensioner., then all timing chain related parts with vvt

To the worst,

Where, when their done with the timing and upon installing crankshaft pulley, the crank bolt breaks (factory torque spec is 200 nm and an additional 270 deg)
fix for that would be a new engine.

I definitely would not recommend any 1st timer and/or inexperienced person to perform this job. These motors are interference motors, you mess up on timing, there's a chance you'll need to buy a new motor