Anyone do the 1/4 mile in a 2011 XFS ?
I am going Friday Night to Street night and looking to dial in my ET correctly.. Seen a few videos showing 13.4xx etc . Hope its faster than that sure seems it... Hoping for sub 13 , was going to dial in at 12.85 unless thats way off. Any thoughts..All I really hope to do is spank the nearest Mustang...

 

I think it all depends on how a few factors you have to decide on : First it is going to be pretty hot out so that will slow down most cars, then will the track be prepped good enough where you can turn Traction Control all the way off and matt the pedal to the floor on a launch or not. I personally have tried to use the paddle shifters but the S mode seems to shift the best and at the ideal time. Assumin your on the stock tires I would air them suckers down to 24 PSI and do a small burnout only. The 12.85 I feel may be hard to reach just casue of the heat and track conditions.
Please post your timelip of the results, I dont see any Jags at the track ever.

 

My best time in my XFR has been a 12.99, but I'm in Denver. The altitude takes a bit out of the car.

 

Friday night is fast approaching, looks like the evening temps are going to be mid to upper 70's. Thanks to Big Cat and Rakka, I will post my timeslip on sat. I will use Rakka's time as a baseline seing as I know I dont want to go under. I Was going to use S starting in 1 and hold around 2800 at the light with DSC Off. I assume that I will do a small burnout in the burnout pit if only for the Video <g> ... I have only launched that way once and it didnt smoke too bad from a stoplight against an older GT500. God I hope I dont redlight... Hopefully my buddy wil have good video and pics for me.

Thanks...

 

Do not drive though the water box on street tires. Drive around and back to just the leading eadge of wheres its wet, not pooled. If you do youll throw water up into the wheel wells with treaded street tires, which then drips down as you pull forward ruining not only your launch, but the guy behind you too.

 

Ive done that before . An interesting point and I wont make that mistake again.

MA_XF_SC good luck at the track, cant wait for the results.

 

DSC off or TracDSC engaged (Dynamic mode engaged in both circumstances?)? I know with TracDSC that you get very little slip, but that power doesn't seem to be limited in the same way it is when everything is on.

 

Very True... also, if you dont have drag slick do not do a fancy burn out!!, just spin em to get them clean, treaded tires no play nice when overheated,no need to overheat them since you will lose traction as well. please be safe and of course have fun!, post times!

 

All of this is great help I really appreciate the feedback, I will have to make a judgement call for the burnout when i see if i get too much spin on first run with out. I have really only used 1 few times and it never has evr gotten squirly on me as i have read from some others. I did have the rear e-diff motor replaced but I dont belive that it was from beating on it. I have seen that the RPM wont rise too much above 1800 when i hold the brake and hold throttle down. True? I have only been able to see the TracDSC off when i hold teh dsc button for about 7-10 sec. was assuming i would leve the checkeref flag off as I dont want to shift... I keep seeing mention of both DSC off or TracDSC engaged like they were different? Am I missing something? Also should i just use Sunoco Ultra 94 I almost always use premium? or get it down low and put in a few gals of 100 unleaded. Again thank's to everyone...

 

My advice

1> Drive around the water
2> Brake stall (gas brake pedal same time) as soon as your tires spin take your foot off the brake pedal and spin up to the line.
Street Tires can benefit from some heat and if nothing else you can even out the contact patch
3> I am not in favor of brake stalling to 2800 rpm. Your torque converter is stalling at some where close to 1500 rpm. Some ECU will pull timing when you brake stall beyond the torque converter lock up
4> Use both feet leave when you see the last yellow light illuminate
5> Let the car shift itself

5A post your slip!

 

I had a great time last night, Brutal I kept trying to keep what you said in my mind,,, That being said I was so nervous drove through the waterbox and past the staging tree by about nearly a car length til the staging guy gave me the duh look... Ooops. Note to self... Had no further staging issues... I must say that the car was definately a conversation piece not only in staging lanes but stands as well. Then how often do you see a car at teh dragstrip with daytime running lights...
What is the deal with all the honda accords running what can only be said is rubbing achohol and slicks... On to the results,

Attached all 4 slips ..
My official best was 13.332 /109.49 ...
My first race (That I broke) was by best and i have the unofficial numbers
I have alot of video to post as soon as i figure out how.
Nobody with street tires was getting traction.
Next time i will arrive just as track opens and wil be ready to post by best times. Things that I have taken from all teh helpful posts...

Drive Around the Waterpit! (Most Important)
Keep stall speed lower around 1500
Hold down dsc button for 10 sec.
Use 1 and S Let it shift..
Lower Tire Pressure...
Dont open windows or sunroof no matter how hot it is until you turn onto return road
Have a blast, I sure did...

 

Not bad for a street night. You should go on a sat/prep day. I hated going on wed/friday nights because of the poor prep and crowds. On the weekends it's MUCH better and I can guarantee you'll get better times. Between a street night and weekend prep I cut off almost a full second with my STi.

 

Sweet!

Nothing is more fun then drag racing at the track. Well almost nothing!

You might invest in some slicks? M&H Racemasters are great. Mickey Thompson makes a good drag radial. A shorter tire would have a similar effect as changing your gears to taller gears.... faster acceleration lower top speed.

 

lol thats a good mph. keep in mind that your 60' times tell all on traction and what you do in that regard. launch rpm. foot brake on with drivetrain loaded or not. tire pressure etc... do one thing at a time to see whats working and more importanly whats not. Dont feel bad Ive done burnout in reverse, left nitrous bottle off, forgot to turn on 2nd fuel pumps. All kinds of stuff. Its why its so important to get in a routine of what you do. It helps to rehearse while your sitting in the staging lanes waiting............

 

Brutal, after reading your other posts in the xkr forum on drag radials, makes more sense about teh stall speed. My first run i only loaded till about 1500, it was my best run then progressivly got more aggressive with teh stall and did much worse. I have a month to have fun while wife is gone, then i'm sure that no more strip for me...

 

MA did you try any runs with no stall?

 

Going to try that on Friday again... I tried one run without tracdsc (normal mode in S)
That was my worst run but the track was very wet it seemed to me. Now that i have a few runs under my belt i will also work on my RT as I did not want to RL.. BTW I did not see your post till after I got home from the drags that night I think it might have helped except that i was anxious enough. When I only use S it does start in 2 and I get no wheel spin at all, any thoughts?


Thanks

 

Cool I bet leaving on the last yellow will get you a .0XX reaction time and also be your fastest time yet.

I'm not a fan of brake stalling at the tree with a stock converter.
I am a fan of brake stalling just on the other side of the water box long enough to get the tires warm and even.

If you get hooked (sounds like you are already) a set of drag radials and light weight rims will be the biggest improvement you can get for under $1000. Since they are DOT rated you can put them on at home and drive to the track with them. Make some runs and drive back home.

I wouldn't mess with air pressure on a street tire. If anything air UP to 38lb because of your trap speed. The reason for taking air out of a slick is to get twist in the side wall and a bigger contact patch. With a street tire the side wall is designed to NOT flex and twist. Your more likely to spin the tire off the bead of the rim then to improve your times. Plus when your going through the back 1/8th at 100 mph + with a under inflated tire ..... bad idea in my opinion.

Turn off everything that can be turned off.
Remove everything from your trunk your not going to need your spare tire/jack carpet ect.

 

I have used these drag radials before

Drag Radials

325/40/18 sounds nice! Find a good 18x10 aluminum rim with a 5x108 bolt pattern and you will leave fast enough to break a half shaft

 

Thanks, Will look in to them.. Hopefully my SA isnt trolling the forums