Yeah, I'm leaking ever so slightly from somewhere. Looks as if it is behind the water pump. Do I have to remove the intercooler/intake manifold in order the change the octopus and bypass hose?Two drips per day.

I just don't like drips. And am I gonna need a new intake gasket. I'm planning on starting this job tomorrow morning at 8AM. Hoping all day is enough time.

 

The octopus hose is not the one mostly behind the intake manifold. That is the b*stard hose, and you can change it without removing the intake, IF the clamps were put on in an orientation that you can get to them, IF you have tenacity, and IF you can see well enough with your head upside down to get the old one off. You should remoe the auxilliary air pump to gain some access.

 

more likely you have a bad gasket between the thermostat housing and the cylinder head. been there myself and I need to change it again. easy job and not costly. lots of info on this subject on this site.

 

I am now 8 hours into my hose replacement. The XJR octopus, bypass hose and a Andy bracket. This is the worst hose replacement that I've ever done in my life and will never, ever do this again.

Turns out that my leak was at the seam of one of those glue on hoses. Just seeping enough to drip twice a day and stink the engine compartment up. The leak traveled down the hose and dripped onto the top of the water pump, making it look like a bad pump. I knew it wasn't the pump since I replaced it 8 months ago. Thinking that was it. So, I got a new pump even though I didn't need it.

This car owes me at least 12 months with no repairs now. Gosh darn it!

 

How many skinned knuckles?

 

I see a couple drips on the floor in a different location. That better be spilled coolant resting on misc. parts. If it isn't...I'm going to go bezerk.

 

I am now chasing a couple of leaks AFTER replacing the octopus on my XJ6. It looks like just clamps so far, but that hose scares me. Be prepared to tighten them after running. I think the problem on mine is the pitting and corrosion of the aluminum nipples.

 

I went through this

I bought the octopus hose from an on-line seller in the uk

I bought all the other hoses from the states only the octopus hose is different on LHD and RHD cars had all the hoses belts pulleys coolant replaced last year within weeks of doing this my car also had drips until a really hot summers day coming back from Brisbane at relatively high speeds my brother and I stopped to get him a packet of cigarettes as I don't smoke and he does it was a chance for him to have a smoke standing at the front of my car he notices steam he looks down and coolant is pouring from the front of the car
I think water-pump as its the only thing I did not replace lucky I was only around the corner from home parked it and rang my mechanic booked it in had a flat bed come pick it up week later I pick up the car from the mechanic he said it was the octopus hose he fitted a genuine hose 800 dollars and labour to fit at this point I remembered certain people on this forum and others talking about pattern parts or non genuine parts the thought that came to mind penny wise pound foolish so kicking myself for a month when I notice its leaking again this time I took it back and it cost me nothing except fuel and travelling to his shop

What I am saying in my opinion the generic and genuine hoses must have came from the same manufacturer to both have the same problem leaking between the layers of the hose where the reinforcing fabric is

After reading how you loved doing the hose be prepared to do it again so make sure the clamps are in an accessible place and use the old clamps again so if it fails again you are not replacing the clamps again
When I did all my hoses I also replaced all the clamps as well just wanting to be through

 

I replaced mine at about 30k miles but the car was 11 years old so I wanted to do it as a precaution....as it certainly isn't the type of thing you can do by the side of the road.

I recall that the 11 year old hose was still in good shape, actually.

I used the OEM, Jaguar-labeled replacement....about $120 as I recall....and all's well after 105k miles.

For many years (and 3 Jags) I always felt that the true Jaguar OEM hoses were higher grade. Recently I've been hearing things that make me wonder if that's still true.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug, I wouldn't be surprised to find a change in supplier to Jaguar, particularly on the rubber hoses. I get the impression the manufacture of rubber products has shifted to indonesia and asia, and the prices are of course much lower.

 

Fitted my octopus last evening - 3 hours of enjoyment. Luckily, mostly from the topside.

 

You may hold the all-time record for fastest octopus hose change

 

no supercharger in the way, mine's an XJ6.

 

Plus, I got good practice when I switched out the bypass hose under the intake manifold last June.

Update - lucky me, it wasn't the octopus that was leaking, but still glad I replaced it. After a test drive, it looks like the stinking bypass hose is the culprit again. I'll be right back, gotta go move the intake manifold - again!

 

That's painful
I totally have sympathy with you I went through hell with my hoses last time hopefully I never have to do them again or at least for another 17 years funny thing a year after replacing all the hoses the stupid water pump went
wish it went at the same time might have saved me some money oh well

 

ok, the intake manifold out of the way - again, and that SOB bypass hose is out. No holes, but holy crap, I guess we didn't notice the layer of crud on the water pump output and the pipe that the other end connects to.

When I pulled the thermostat, I took a twisted wire cup to the thermostat housing outlet to get the crud off, polished it nearly shiny. I guess we didn't notice the same crud when we replaced this hose in June.

So, I found that a paint can opener, with that little bent tip, is an excellent scraper to get that stuff off. Finished it off with a bit of emery cloth.

Is there a liquid solution (Lime Away, something for soap scum.... anything) I can spray on that to get it really clean, or is scraping my resolution? It held tight for 4 months (started leaking again in October, and I parked it until now), and that clamp wasn't as tight as when we put it on, so I'm hoping the crud layer was the culprit. I'm really not a fan of playing with this hose.

Thanks - I'd like to drive this thing again...LOL

 

Welcome to the club. I used strips of sandpaper to clean mine, but the pitting had me concerned. Twice I found a puddle under the car, but a thousand mile trip had no coolant loss. I finally tightened the clamps to the octopus connection at the back of the water pump and that took care of the leak. Fortunately, the connecting hose to the engine, which I also replaced did not leak.
I think you are better off removing the corrosion with emory or sandpaper than messing with chemicals.

 

I'll keep scraping. But I think I got pretty well cleaned up. You couldn't even see the wide channel before.

 

Deleted duplicate post.

 

If you want some chemical to clean the crud and not damage the metal
I use MAG wheel cleaner the cheapest one usually its a form of acid cleans corrosion from alloy really well
you might have to do it a few times usually I just spray it on after I have loosened of the loose stuff with a wire brush when its completely clean I then rub some of this stuff on Lanotec | products
not sure if it is available where you are
I use it for anything that corrodes the spray on stuff is the best rustproofing in the world nothing gets it of except methylated spirits and even then it takes a bit of work living in a subtropical climate and half a kilometre from the pacific ocean I have tried every type of rustproofing there is nothing beats the lanolin products and it's non toxic to boot whenever I find a spot of corrosion or rust I just soak it with the lanolin spray stops it right there wont make it disappear but stops it in its tracks

It also has a multitude of uses makes my motorcycle leathers waterproof and soft battery terminals never corrode you think of it you can use it best oil for timber as it doesn't evaporate only the thinning agent
I usesd to use it on my convertable roof best waterproofing I have ever used gets a bit dense in cold climates but stays flexible