Fingers crossed here bruv!

 

 

OK guys. I'm trying to start it up and it turns over and barks but will not keep on running. Seems like it fires up for 1.5 second only. I did swap the timing plate from the old motor. Any ideas?


Also, I noticed that disconnecting the battery doesn't seem to clear all codes and seems like some hard faults remain, how do I clear those?

I'm also running with no SC belt but I've heard that the car will run with no belt right?

 

If the codes stay there is a fault, what are the codes?

You can drive without the SC belt, no problem.

 

OK, I don't know if it was some hard code or a fueling issue, but I hooked up my OBD II scaner to it, cleared the codes( I could only see one pertaining to a system check) and it fired right up. I need to get a 2004 SC belt...

Open Downpipes BTW, I'm contemplating doing actuated dumps before stock exhaust, borla cat back or 2.5 all the way through...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlUwpbys79c

 

Are these the cat sensor cheaters? I guess you'll only know once you've got it running on the road if they work?

Well done so far!

 

Man, you are either much fster than me (almost sure to be true) or you have a bunch of time on your side. Thanks for the reports and the pictures!

 

I'm using those with no cats and they work fine.

 

I have a tendency to pull all-nighters when wrenching. Also, being a mortgage loan officer by trade I can say business is slow. lol


One more thing to mention, with the after-coolers being moved back 5-8mm the Throttle Body was a tight fit, but fit I got spooked for a minute when putting it together.

Also for AVOS,

There is no way this big *** TB will fit in the behind the cylinder head. I'd say that it would be better to move it up front by the air filter...

 

@Adam699
Congrats with the work so far!
The TB is huge indeed, but actually, I think it could fit, am working on it now actually.

 

I think you would have to redo AC lines, EGRtube and some other things. I think it would be easier to splice the wires and move it forward.

 

OK, so after 40 minutes of wrestling I got the SC belt on. Boy was that fun.

I fire it up and with the SC it runs like crap. It will not idle right, stalls and It runs so rich it makes my eyes itch. Any ideas where to start?

 

Just thinking through it, you have the obvious major control sensors:
1) CKPS- The flywheel and timing ring have no key to the crankshaft, How did you align the angle between the crank and the ring?
2) CPS- Did you possibly damage him while installing? Did you get the timing cam ser to the cam right. BTW, I do not remember you explaining how you got the old one off and how you set the angle.
3) Is the engine grounded to the frame?
4) Did you screw up something to the MAF wiring?
5) Obniously the cam timing is important. You diid peg the crank at the right position when setting the cams (NOT TDC)?
6) How do you know you have the right and left side lambda sensors connected to the right place?

Lasst, but certainly not least, what are the codes, both before and now? Do you have an OBD scanner that will show parameters like TPS position?

 

The scanner I got only does generic OBDII on a Jag. I don't think the problem is with any of the above as the motor purrs like a kitten when it's without the supercharger belt. As soon as I slapped the belt on the rough idle started happening.

as far as #2, I swapped the vane with a chisel, hammer a torch and some common sense I'm positive it didn't get damaged.

 

As you have now mastered the trick (i hope) to work on the SC belt, would try to get it of again to be sure all works ok witout (would be odd actually). If all checks out fine (prefferably a drive), and fuel trims are ok (so from idle to driving) , would again to put the belt back, and go from there.

Regarding the TB, thanks for the headsup. Give me another week or 2, then I will know for sure, but chances are very high it can fit. Prefer to have the intake as short as possible after the TB, and this monstrous unit will also give fitting issues in the front, as there also needs to be some room between the TB and MAF, which is why I focus now on the back.

 

I honestly think it's a vacuum leak and I strongly suspect the aftercooler duct seals. The spacer is machined nicely however there is still some vertical misalignment of about 4mm. I'm thinking about ditching the V8 piece square gasket all together and just using a tad of RTV sealant instead?

Do you have the part# for the upgraded duct seals and pieces?

 

A vacuum leak would also be there without the supercharger spinning, but I would also guess that as a possible issue...

Do you use the new rubbers as suggested earlier? They are less prone to leak, especially with a slight misalignment. How thick did you make the spacer? You could consider making it slightly thinner

 

Only now read the last part, Sorry, I donīt have the partnumbers with me (am traveling).

 

It sounded like the same problem you had pre- supercharger came back. Did you do anything to "ix"that other than reset the codes? Its hard to believe the reset made thant much change.
Its also hard to believe that as vscuum lrsk richened the mixture so much that it started to stink, although it id possibble if it was misfiring.

 

I think you might be onto something. I took off the supercharger belt and same thing, idles like crap and keeps on stalling.

I'm going to try to change the fuel filter. The car sat for close to a year.