So, I'm getting ready to yank the motor.

Should I do it from the top using the cherry picker or drop it from the bottom with the cradle?

Is it better/easier to take out with the trans or separate in the car?

I have a lift and a cherry picker so either way works for me, I'm just trying to see what's easier/better.

 

The way everyone at the dealer I worked at (and I do in my own shop) is to use 2 steel flat top carts and leave the engine/trans on the front suspension and raise the car up.
The carts are about 2 feet tall and have casters so the engine/suspension can rest on one and the gearbox that is on the other can be rolled free when the bell housing bolts are removed. I have also seen the hydraulic tables used this way. 2 of these could work....

Hydraulic Lift Table - 500 Lb. Capacity

Or one or 2 of these

Scissor Lift Table Cart - 1000 Lb. Capacity

The handles can be removed and laid flat

The engine is then lifted from the suspension and the replacement installed.

Wheel the 2 tables together and bolt everything back up.

bob gauff

 

I'm wondering how come JTIS tells you to hoist it out??

 

1) More than one way to skin a cat?

2) They didn't think of it?

3) Brits do things differently?

Note that Jaguar does not mention the "tie method" for changing secondary tensioners, for that matter. I don't think they have any particular incentive to come up with easy or quick ways to do any service.

 

To Bob Gauff -

So you hoist the entire car up, wheel the carts underneath, (gently) lower the car back down onto the carts, secure the hoist, and go from there?

 

Oops, I meant ...disconnect the engine/trans/frt suspension, raise the hoist, then secure it.

 

I remove the exhaust and all that can be done from under, (including the torque converter bolts) then lower the car onto the 'carts'. I remove the trans crossmember body fasteners, rear through-bolts to the front suspension and from the top, the 'vee-mounting' bolts for the front crossmember. Hang the brake calipers, undo the damper nuts and raise the car free from the engine, trans and suspension.

The steering column is always in the way but it can be tucked/shoved out of the way (don't forget to mark it for re-alignment).

No damage to the radiator, and no need to remove the bonnet.

It's always good to have 2 people (one to 'lift' and one to 'watch').

This not a step-by-step, just a summary!!!!!!!!!!!
I also BIAS the car to the FRONT so it won't be too rear heavy when the car is lifted as I only have 5,000 LB capacity lifts. I don't need a car sliding backwards off the lift like a Rolls Royce did back in the 70s at a dealer in Fort Worth! (but that is another story)

bob gauff

 

When you set the car gently onto the carts, do you have cradles or cushions for the parts you are disconnecting?

 

Blocks of wood to level the engine/trans and to keep the cataverters from resting on the table.

bob gauff

 

I always pulled the motors from the top with trans attached. Separating the trans in the car is a PIA with cooler lines in the way and cats and so on. I didnt drop subframes only due to the thought of it not getting in exactly the same place and having to do an alignment after the motor swap. This may be a small thing to some others and dealers. Just my thoughts though. Removing the rad makes a big difference for front clearance and I literally would climb under the car to remove the crossmember bolts completely. The bias of the screw on the hoist chain thing would relieve any drop from taking the bolts out. You really need that screw chain thing to do it safely. I even did the top out method on a 07 XKR that spit an exhaust valve cause the right head doesnt come out in the car. That was fun!
Good luck and take your time. lots of bolts!!

 

Adam, I haven't got a lift, just use an engine crane. Done two extractions and one install in the last month or so....

It takes a morning to do, disconnect all hoses, remove radiator and bonnet, keeping the engine loom on the unit, and pull the engine and box together. Under the car, there's 2 engine mount bolts, 5 bolts for the gearbox cross member, and 3 bolts on the 'box/prop. Then the cats bolts, 4 each side, flood with penetrating oil and leave until you're ready. Might need to rope the exhaust to the front bulkhead, or remove, up to you. Then rope the engine/box and gently raise an inch and see if anything is still hooked up. Once free, raise it up and out. To install a trolly jack on the tail of the box helps slide it back into position, I keep the mounts on the block as these self locate onto the subframe, with a wiggle.
Give me a pm if you need to know more.

 

Well, at least no one has preferred to take it out the SIDE !! :-)