XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Buying a '98 VDP

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Old 03-27-2013 | 05:27 PM
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Default Buying a '98 VDP

Hi everyone, soon to be a first time Jag owner here. A trusted colleague of mine is upgrading to a new XJ and is selling me his '98 VDP at the trade in price. 76,700 miles on it and in nice shape. Wanted to introduce myself and see what thoughts you had.

The only issues we know about the car are that the sunroof won't open and there's a 'thud' noise sometimes coming from the trans when coming to a stop when it shifts into first...this only seems to happen after its warmed up, maybe after 20-30 miles. Mechanics at the dealer said its not an issue, but was curious to see what your thoughts might be.
 
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Old 03-27-2013 | 08:30 PM
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The tranny thing... It's an issue !

Take it to a real mechanic and get that figured out....

best o luck on
the car
 
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Old 03-27-2013 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by curdy
Hi everyone, soon to be a first time Jag owner here. A trusted colleague of mine is upgrading to a new XJ and is selling me his '98 VDP at the trade in price. 76,700 miles on it and in nice shape. Wanted to introduce myself and see what thoughts you had.

The only issues we know about the car are that the sunroof won't open and there's a 'thud' noise sometimes coming from the trans when coming to a stop when it shifts into first...this only seems to happen after its warmed up, maybe after 20-30 miles. Mechanics at the dealer said its not an issue, but was curious to see what your thoughts might be.
+1 on the tranny

If the car has the original engine it's nikasil lined. I'd check the compression. Also, check on the secondary timing chain tensioners. What's the price?
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 08:01 AM
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Trade in value
 

Last edited by curdy; 01-23-2014 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 08:11 AM
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I usually subscribe to the 'if there's an abnormal noise, something isn't normal' philosophy but at the same time, keep things in perspective that 'is the noise signs of something really bad, or just a nuisance that really doesn't harm anything.'

The car has always been serviced at a top end Jag dealer on the main line outside Philly. I thought it odd that the mechanic would just leave it at saying its not a big deal...but keep in mind, I'm getting that info second hand. While my colleague spares little expense when it comes to maintenance he doesn't fix something if he's told its not broken. Me? I tend to ask maybe 5 times before I'm really satisfied I'm getting the right answer.

So even at the price, it would make sense for me to at least get some clearer answers on the tranny, compression, and timing chain tensioners.

Just so you understand my situation, I'm looking for the car to last me at least 2 years and maybe 30k miles. I probably wouldn't be bothering with this car if it weren't for the price.
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 08:19 AM
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For that price, it might be worth getting the alloy thermostat housing, water pump, thermostat, secondary tensioners and tranny serviced, if the car is in excellent shape. Of course if you have evidence that any of these things have been done, or you can do them yourself, then that's even better. If you just want cheap transportation for a couple of years, get a Toyota.
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 09:11 AM
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Not looking for cheap transportation, just felt this car would bridge the gap nicely from what my needs are now, and what I plan on getting in a couple of years.

Care to throw out a guess on what the bill would be on the service you mention? I'm thinking its in the same ballpark as the price of the car.
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 09:53 AM
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My Cat is the same as yours. I paid DOUBLE this amount back in October, and it had similar mileage (80K). Nicasil engine (going strong), and updated everything. Interior was burned by AZ sun (I replaced it all), had new tires, and in a need of brakes and rotors.

I am VERY pleased with the car. I have a little over 6K in it now, and in two weeks it's going in for a paint job (thin, overbuffed, original paint on it now).

For the price,......yours is a STEAL. Tranny issue needs to be figured out. It is NOT normal. But,.....if everything else checks out, driving it until the tranny goes out, buying the rebuilt tranny (you can get one as new with warranty for about 1500 in CA), will still be viable. You'd be in it for less than 5K, and mine will have (with the paint job) over 8K in it. To ME, that's worth it. I enjoy driving this thing like I haven't enjoyed a car for many years.

To me this car is not a "transportation" (although I drive it daily!), but a "hobby". I refuse to be a part of a "mainstream" (whatever that means), and drive bland, oriental cars. I like driving something different, luxurious, fast, beautifull, and fairly unique. I'll keep it for many years to come, and keep puting the money in it as needed.

Mine doesn't have ANY issues, but I'm sure they will come. And when they do, there is this community of the X308 owners around the world, that will help diagnose the problem, and I am a commited DIYselfer.

Good luck.
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 12:44 PM
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Yes, it probably would be in the ballpark of the price of the car to bring it to excellent mechanical shape, or less if you can DIY some things, and maybe less if the tranny doesn't need to be replaced, or replaced right away. But still, $5K isn't bad for a car like that, if body and cosmetics are good. I didn't mean to sound discouraging, but just to hope you go in with your eyes open.
 
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Old 03-28-2013 | 04:55 PM
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The price is low enough to take the risk & the first thing to do is to get the valve block in the transmission overhauled before it causes the 'A' drum to fail. The ZF transmission problem is a known issue & any 'thuds' from the gearbox need to be addressed ASAP as it's usually the first signs of imminent transmission failure in the not-too-distant future.

With these cars, knowledge & preparation are everything as the early XJ8's had numerous 'issues' that could afflict them-you'll find all the information on this forum from other members who have read the book, seen the film & have the wallet scars to prove it

If you do decide to get the vehicle, then you'll need to have the following things checked out:


1) Probable transmission valve block overhaul to prevent 'A' drum failure-there are threads on this topic on the forum if you search for them.

2) Secondary tensioners-make sure the latest 3rd Gen metal tensioners have been fitted to prevent possible timing chain problems & engine damage if the old plastic ones fail.

3) Nikasil-not so much of a problem now as the sulphur has gone from modern petrols & the engine should be ok, but may be worth checking compression etc.

4) Plastic thermostat housings, early water pumps-these can fail & cause coolant leaks/overheating.

5) Bore wash problem-after starting the engine, always make sure it has warmed up fully before turning it off again. If you start the engine from cold & then switch it off again fairly soon after while it's still cold, when you try to re-start it the bores can become flooded. There is a procedure to start a flooded engine, but the best way to avoid it in the first place is to let the engine warm up fully & continuously after a cold start before switching it off again.

There are other issues, but the 2 'biggies' in your case will be the transmission problem & checking to make sure the metal tensioners have been fitted. Both these issues can cause major & expensive failure if they are not addressed quickly after purchase. The fact that the transmission is already lurching means there's almost certainly a valve block wear problem. If the worn valve block isn't repaired, then it can go on to cause spurious hydraulic pressure spikes which can then fracture one of the main transmission drums-this will cause the vehicle to become immobile & the wallet to take a pounding...

The main factors in your favour are that the vehicle price is low & it's been serviced at the dealer-so it may just be a case of having the transmission fault examined & the engine checked to make sure it's got the metal tensioners.
 
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  #11  
Old 03-29-2013 | 11:10 AM
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Thanks everyone so far for the helpful info. I will see if these can be checked out prior to purchase. Delivery of the new car probably won't be until late May, so there's some time.
 
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Old 03-29-2013 | 10:52 PM
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I got started with a 98 VDP for not too much$$. The ZF transmission is used in BMW and Mercedes. Take it to a shop with recommendations. Mine was about $2,400 installed with a 12 month warranty. It should be the smoothest transmission you have
ever experienced in your life. Most any shop can do tires and brakes. I use
Tire Kingdom. (A national chain, but the name changes in some states). Download
all the shop manual and wiring diagrams. Get a good volt ohm meter. A good OBD II
reader that can do all the Jaguar specific tests is at least $500. (I don't have one yet).
Do at least the upper tensioners. Ebay is a great place to find good used parts. Expect to pay 2x to maintain it. It IS worth it.
 
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