Heeeeelp. I am rebuilding the front end of my 00' XJR, but cannot figure out how to install the coil springs without the special Jaguar tool. Has anyone else tried to do this with any success?

 

What JAGUAR special tool is needed to install the springs??
A spring compressor is needed to compress all strut springs from the top mount.
Most shops have a spring tool for this operation.
Jaguar offered several spring adapters for the compression tool but they do not have to be used.
Several manufacturers use different sizes of clamps so a compatible one will work.

bob gauff

 

I'm not quite sure I follow what you are saying. How do you compress the spring in order to get it between the upper and lower control arms?

 

Sorry, I re read the car you have. XJR (not XKR)

You can make a tool with a piece of 3/4" all-thread rod, washers and nuts.
You need to drill 1/4" hole through the one end and tap a short lenghth of 1/4" rod.
The all-thread is inserted in the center of the spring pan and turn 90 degrees in the top plate. I have seen people post that they removed the lower spring pan bolts one at a time and inserted LONG threaded studs. The nuts were loosened a little at a time until the pressure was relieved.

bob gauff

 

After trying several different brands and styles of compressor with results ranging from frustration to FEAR, I got one of these and successfully finished:
http://tinyurl.com/37otgo4
If you can't follow that link, Google "otc 7045b".

I used that compressor without the top plate, extending it through the spring as shown in the Jaguar shop manuals.

Others have claimed good results with threaded rods, but the forces (at least on the XJR) springs are so great, I was in fear of something coming loose.
In eithe rcase, using the compressor and then a jack on the bottom spring plate, along with long bolts that you have removed the heads to make guides, made the assembly much easier.

IBTW: I work around large machinery all of the time in my job, and am not a "nervous Nelly" type, but this operation is one that you need to think and plan your moves in order to remain safe from serious personal injury- due to the large potential energy of a compressed spring.

 

Ahh, now I see the notches and holes in the top spring seat for the 1/4" pin. Clever Brits! On my way to the hardware store now.

You guys rock!!! Thanks a million.

 

I agree on using the threaded bar technique, done two XJR front ends this way recently. You can use a jack under the stub axle to raise the suspension to get the shock through the turret mount on the chassis.

 

Yesterday I pulled out my Jaguar spring tool and measured the pin for the top notches. It is a 5/16" roll pin, not 1/4" but I'm sure 1/4" solid rod is plenty strong enough. The roll pin might stay in place better do the expanding spring force of the roll pin design. A solid rod could be a press fit, welded or staked in place.

bob gauff

 

Am I picturing this correctly - A 1/4 or maybe 5/16 bolt or roll pin is taking the sideways force of (presumably) several hundred pounds of compressed spring? I would think that at the very least you would want to use a grade 5 or preferably grade 8 bolt, for the extra strength. Ordinary threaded rod (at least, what I can get at the hardware store) is pretty soft stuff. BTW, a 5/16 fastener bends only about half as much as a 1/4 one for the same load, everything else being equal.

 

So, if I understand correctly, either way (3/4" rod, several rods) the bottom pan has to be removedfrom the lower control arms?

 

Here is a pic of the Jaguar tool top mount area. The roll pin goes through a 19mm stepped down area of the 20mm rod. The Jaguar tool is 20mm X 2.5 but the 3/4" all thread is 19mm so it can be used. The all thread rod IS soft steel but the long nuts that can be purchased and LOTS of antiseize compound will allow the rod to be used several (or more) times before the threads become worn and start to gall.

If all you want to do is lock the spring in place and hold it while you remove the lower control arms, then the few threads you use to compress the spring slightly will be more than adequate.

I would remove the arms one-at-a-time so the lower plate does not lose the location and float around too much.

If the spring needs to be removed, then the proper tool or the long bolts would be a good idea.

bob gauff

 

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I decided to go with the 3/4" threaded rod. I drilled a hole through the center of one end and insetered the 1" piece of grade 8 bolt. It worked like a charm!!!

I now have new control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end ar links, upper/lower ball joins and urethane shock bushings.

 

How long does the 3/4" threaded rod need to be?

 

I cut the 3/4 rod down to 20". I then drilled a 1/4" hole through the center 1/2" from the end of the rod. I took a grade "8" 1/4" bolt and cut it down to 1" with a hacksaw. Then I tapped the cut bolt throught the hole so it formed a "T".

If you use this method, make sure to use a generous amount of lithium grease on the threaded rod

With the bottom spring pan removed, I then ran the rod throught the spring and cap and into the top spring seat opening. I then turned the rod until the "T" fit into the grooves locking the rod in place.

Install the bottom spring pan large 3/4" washer and nut.

Slowly turn the nut compressing the springs while keeping the bottom pan aligned with the lower control arm bolt holes.

When the bottom pan is close to the lower arm use a jack to raise the pan enough to start the 6 pan bolts.

All in all, it took about an hour per side to install the spring, but I was working very slowly as I have heard stories of errant springs.

Although the 3/4" rod was only a grade 5, it held up without any issues. The grade 8 bolt bent slightly during the compression process, but not to where I was worried about it breaking.