Thanks avt007 for the pics ours made the popping noise today. Took a look today mine is only cracked but will be working on this tomorrow before it gets worse. I've found a lot of great info on this forum. Thanks again

 

Great tutorial & photos! I have a 2000 XJ8 & had some grinding noise & the door check arm no longer works. I tried to look to see if the sheet metal failed & the bolts ripped through vs. the arm itself failing. I cannot see since the Door Check cover/seal blocs my view! I used a mirror & tried to remove the rubber boot/cover but it seems very large & most of it is inside the door & don’t want to tear it. Do I need to remove the door panel just to remove the boot to see if my sheet metal is torn? Jaguar Scottsdale, AZ charges $60.60 for a new Door Check arm. Hate to buy one if just need 4 washers to repair sheet metal. I can return it if I don’t open the package according to the parts guy. I was going to buy a new door check arm & use that to correctly size washers at a hardware store so I’d have both 4 correct size washers + a new dc arm on hand when I began the adventure of removal of the door panel. If the sheet metal is OK, in order to replace the arm, I would need to remove the rubber seal on the body side of the arm as well. I bet that also does not come off easily & how do I access the bolts to remove that other (Car body) side? Do I need to remove part of the dashboard?

Thanks.

 

Sorry Steve, I don't remember what the rubber bit looked like, and I'm flat on my back with some damned virus, or I'd go look.
There is nothing on the car side to remove. I'd buy the arm just in case, because my cracked one failed a few months later. BTW, if anyone is stuck, the rear door on the same side has the same arm.

 

Thanks Rob,

From your photos it looks like there is not a rubber boot/cover on yours. Maybe the 1998 model didn’t have that & my 2000 model does? I did not attempt to remove the other rubber cover/boot from the chassis/pillar side. Looking again at your great photos, it appears that that pillar side has threaded holes in the pillar so, no need to somehow get behind to remove any nut. I think if I do need to replace the arm, I just remove that rubber cover & then remove the 2 bolts & that pillar side easily comes off.

If I was sure I could easily remove & replace the door panel (which looks different than yours) I would have already done so. It may be a good idea to replace that arm even if it appears OK, I’ll look closely for any cracks.

My door has a small circle that looks removable in the metal lock release handle recess (black plastic) which I suspect hides a screw. My leather arm rest/door handle has no screw underneath that I can see nor can I see any other screws.

I found a TSB for the 2004 XJ8 but searched & no luck with one for the 2000 model. The 2004 model has a weather shield which my 2000 does not.


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...rm%20Noisy.pdf

I also saw this interesting product which may not be much better vs. the 4 cheap washers:

Door Check Arm Plate - gmd1983ab.plate

Get well soon,

Steve

 

Iconoclast
Just replaced mine a couple weeks.
The rubber has a split in it where the check arm rod passes through the rubber use a small screwdriver find the split pry it out enough so you can grab hold of it and pull it out.the rubber is pretty strong it shouldn't tear. As far as the stiffener plate goes I made my own. Why spend $25 ? Get a piece of 1 1/2 inch X3 inchX1/8 inch thick flat stock make yourself a template out of thin cardboard mark your holes from the inside of the door transfer that to your flat stock drill your holes for the studs I used 9/32 drill bit for a little wiggle room then cut a hole for the rod to pass through I drilled two 1/2 " holes than finished it off with a jigsaw using a metal cutting blade. If you go that route you will need to round the corners or it won't go through the hole in the door also tie a string through the hole for the check arm rod. If you should drop the plate could be hell getting it back it won't come out the bottom. It took less than an hour to make the plate. hope this helps out.

 

Our driver front door check arm broke 3 months ago.

Here are a few photos of the door check arm rubber grommets, repaired driver front door check arm installed with the door check arm plate, passenger front door check arm with no damage, instructions on how to install the door check arm plate, the broken door check arm, and the door check arm plate that was installed.

I removed both front door check arm foam grommets this evening to take a few photos. I just started at the top by pressing the foam towards the center with my finger until my finger got to the back of the foam, then I pushed that part of the foam out. I continued the process all around the grommet until it came out all the way.

Click on image when the dropbox webpage opens to get a sharper image. Second click on image will restore first image displayed.

Front & Rear side of the foam grommet
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h1c0tpf4wenim4/IMG_0008.JPG

Side view of the foam grommet
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nr0a6k7a8umfkde/IMG_0009.JPG

Driver front door check arm installed with the door check arm plate (large image - use 40% internet zoom function).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xv3psx0q6clluau/IMG_0007.JPG

Passenger front door check arm undamaged
https://www.dropbox.com/s/chaqblblk0h26yj/IMG_0010.JPG

Instructions for installing door check arm plate
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8dlg9cl72o04t6c/IMG_0012.JPG

Damaged front driver door check arm
https://www.dropbox.com/s/szf1idt3kwin80p/IMG_0014.JPG

Door check arm plate - 1 1/2 inch wide by 3 3/4 inch long x 1/8 inch thick
https://www.dropbox.com/s/84nls8vuzw120w7/image1.jpg


And yes, I did have door damage that was repaired using 2 bolts, 2 very strong washers and 2 nuts plus added the steel plate in previous photo.

New Door Check purchased from Jaguar of Greenville - $42.92 part number GMD1983AB
Door Check Reinforcement Plate purchased from MotorCar LTD on Ebay $29.85 includes shipping.

Jim Lombardi

 

Bud1man,

You were right! I was easily able to pull out the entire rubber boot & using a mirror, examine the sheet metal. I do have a huge crack & the bolts are no longer holding the end of the door check arm in place on the door. So, I suspect I do not need a new door check arm, rather a repair of the metal with either 4 washers or a plate. Glad you were able to make your own plate. I don’t have the tools. No jigsaw, just a drill. I think I will look for 4 washers with a 1/2” hole. Not too thick. Wish I knew what diameter I should get so the washers are not to large. My door has a rectangular recess where the Door check arm bolts attach. Hopefully this is not an issue when trying to get a tool on the bolts.

Jim,

Thanks for the description & the photos!

Thanks,

Steve

 

My experience fixing my 2000 XJ8 DCA (door check arm) problem:

Done Friday 3-22-2013

This may help others avoid my mistakes.

Tips 1st & then details. (For 2000 XJ8--YMMV with other MY)

B4 removing door panel must remove 2 screws; one beneath the chrome pull handle lock release & the other hidden beneath the leather arm rest. It comes completely off as a single piece. Plastic, carpet, 2 different colors & all.

To remove decorative wood insert, use fingers or dull plastic, thin tool to grasp edge away from chrome handle. Don’t scratch with metal tools. Pull gently -- there are 2 clips & then it must slide left, away from chrome handle. Tight fit.

Pull up door panel from bottom to release the 8 lower clips & the hardest clip to release is a huge one holding very tight in the middle. It is NOT a 3rd screw! Must pull hard for that one. The top of door panel rests on edge of metal parallel to widow slot with a metal long groove built into door panel. There are no clips on the top! The chrome lock button vertical rod easily slips out of the hole in door panel.

If any parts of the 8 clips fall out, replace them.

If you cannot or don’t want to d/c the 3 wire harnesses, you can support the door panel on a box to keep it out of your way.

To remove DCA from pillar side, loosen top nut with 10mm wrench or socket & then gently tap the top of the bolt & it will come off from the bottom. The bottom is round head & slotted. But, probably no need to use screwdriver & hold it or turn it.

Parts: The washer size is 1.25” OD & 1/4” I.D. Not too thick. I used zinc “AJC” from Home Depot. $0.20 each. The nut size is 10mm Hex flare nut to fit a 6mm bolt. I replaced my dropped/lost one with Whiz Lock Nut. (ACE Hardware)

Do NOT put DCA back in upside down! Note orientation carefully b4 remove it. Hint: Long slot is on top.

It has been mentioned b4 to take care (use tape?) to NOT drop washers or nuts inside door. Don’t assume, as did I, that this apples only to the main door compartment & not to the outside door side that is visible when the door panel is in place. That rectangular recess has no bottom & dropped nuts & washers fall into a completely separate, narrow hollow that does not communicate with the large hollow inside the main door!

I stuffed a paper towel to block that bottom opening & also used magnets to retrieve dropped objects that fell an inch onto the paper towel. Note: you cannot view this directly, only via a mirror with a flashlight so it is awkward.


Details:

Remove rubber boot & hard plastic cover from pillar side. Hard plastic cover has one side with adhesive. Both have a slot so can be completely removed & set aside.

Removed plastic, round, decorative plug behind chrome pull handle to reveal screw. Used a tiny jeweler’s screwdriver for minimal scratching of plastic. Removed 7/8” machine screw with power screwdriver. Removed black plastic housing behind pull handle by maneuvering it. It is tight. Found 2nd lower screw using a mirror. It is hidden under leather arm rest handle just past window controls which are on top of arm. Removed 2.25” sheet metal type screw with power screwdriver. It goes in at a 45 degree angle up. Removed decorative wood oval panel using plastic letter opener so minimal scratching of edge of wood. 2 clips & then pull wood to my left away from chrome handle & comes off & see there is a long notch that fits into the door that holds it in addition to the 2 clips. Note: if you have ever had rattles from this area you can add some padding to back of wood b4 you replace it. The dealer had done this early 2000s when under warranty & I saw he added some stick on foam type strips to the back of the wood. I added a few small round stick on bumpers plus a couple scrap strips of material designed to keep throw rugs from slipping. I secured that with small bits of masking tape.

Easily pulled door panel off from bottom, there were 6 clips on the bottom edge with 2 more one each side about 1/3 of the way up. Total of 8 small clips. Much trouble/time thinking that I missed a 3rd screw holding the center of door panel in place but, finally pulled hard & a HUGE center clip released! It was many times larger than the small clips.
Lifted door up & chrome lock button vertical rod easily slips out of the hole in door panel. It has much play to facilitate replacement of door panel. I easily removed wiring harness clip from speaker at lower end. I was unable to remove wire from light at other lower end & unable to remove the huge yellow rectangular clip for big wire harness for door controls. Just don’t know what, if anything, to squeeze for those. If you get those off, you also must release a holder for the main wiring from that large yellow clip. It will be obvious what must be released. It may not be clear HOW to release. I decided to support the door panel on a small styrofoam ice chest so it could be positioned under the door with those wires still attached & pivoted to keep out of my way. My door panel came off all one piece. The carpeted section with the speaker is apparently not a separate section as it appears. Same for the top, darker colored plastic on the top even though it looks like 2 separate pieces of plastic, it is all one piece.

I replaced one part of a clip that fell out. What s/b on the removed door panel is just the male part of the clips. Remaining in the metal door is the female slot with the metal insert that sometimes comes off & falls or stays on the male part. Make sure this metal part is replaced in the female slot b4 you push the male part in.

Now you can pull back the plastic/paper thin sheet from the upper right corner enough to look inside & see the DCA! The black adhesive will still be able to hold the paper once you are finished & replace the paper. I saw torn sheet metal where the nuts ripped through & an intact DCA.

To remove the DCA, no need to loosen nuts on door side since it already ripped loose from sheet metal causing problem! I needed to remove from pillar side. I wasted time trying to use screwdriver on bottom round & slotted head -- would not budge even when gripped screwdriver with pliers for more torque! Solution - I simply loosened top nut with 10mm wrench & then gently tapped the top of the bolt & it came off from the bottom. While loosening the nut I used mirror & looked at bottom & the slotted round head was not turning. Now I could maneuver the DCA out the large hole in the door & examine it & see no cracks or bent brackets so, I set it aside.

Now I had a great look at the damaged sheet metal from both sides. To bend it back straight was a challenge. AVT007 posted to use a small hammer & close the door to apply force. My hammer was too large. Finally, I found a great trick. I used 2 long bolts aligned head to foot wrapped in an old sock to save scratching the paint. By using them at different angles & watching through the hole in the door & closing the door partially to apply force, I was able to very accurately re-bend & straighten the torn sheet metal! I also used a large hammer & chisel to tap on the metal from inside the door side. Between both methods I was able to apply force exactly where I wished on both sides & it straightened very well.

I then removed the 10mm Hex flare nuts & added the 1.25” O.D.washer with the 1/4” hole to the DCA using masking tape to prevent dropping off into the door cavity. Making sure to not replace the DCA upside down (slot at the top) I replaced into position with 2 washers on the door side. I then placed 2 more washers on the other side (The outside area where you need to use mirror & go by feel) I then put one nut on & as putting other nut on, I dropped it. Assuming it fell an inch or two into that rectangular recess, I felt for it & in the process knocking off the washer which also fell! To my horror, I realized that recess has an open bottom & these parts fell into a channel that is separate from the main door cavity. I spent more time then I’ll admit fishing for the nut & washer with a strong magnet taped to a wire hanger. No success. I then stuffed a paper towel into the opening to prevent further loss of nuts. I had one spare washer which I used & I stole a nut from my rear door. I then completed attaching that side of the DCA. B4 fully tightening the 2 nuts, I reattached & fully tightened the pillar side. Then fully tightened the door side. Greased the DCA & replaced the rubber grommet/boot. I use silicone spray on the two hinges & grease on the DCA. I had to use a bit of glue on the hard plastic cover for the pillar side since the adhesive would no longer hold it.

I had trouble replacing the door panel & had to remove & redo once I realized that I need to attach top part first! After chrome lock button vertical rod threaded through the hole in door panel, next must align-set the upside down V shaped long channel onto the thin metal strip parallel to the window channel. This “hangs” & secures the top part of the door panel! Next, angle the door panel downward & the giant center clip attaches & finally push down on the bottom edge & the lower 8 small clips easily should snap into place.

Now my DCA works perfectly!


Next day after obtaining more washers & replacement nuts, w/o removing any door panels, I reinforced the remaining 3 DCAs with 2 washers each. 3 of my flexible rubber boots came out w/o trouble & one on a rear door one was very difficult & tore in several places. Still had to stuff paper towels & use mirror & feel to do the job & still difficult to not drop parts down the “hole” & I actually managed to lose another nut due to paper towel apparently not covering all of the hole---very difficult to feel/see even using mirror! But, had purchased extras so finished the job! Now my DCAs will NEVER rip through the sheet metal.

I think every Jag owner should reinforce his DCAs with 2 washers each b4 the metal cracks. Actually, it should have been a factory recall!

(I will upload photos)

 

An excellent topic - I'm no genius mechanic but I found this quite an easy process...although very fiddly.