.

 

I can empathize with you Waller4. On our trip to Austin last evening, our wipers did the same...on intermittent, sometimes would work perfecting, sometimes would make 3-4 swipes and sometimes would stop at the lower right, or right in my line of sight. It seemed to worsen with use. In another post, it is suggested that the problem is either the wiper relay getting stuck, or the wiper switch itself. Tomorrow I plan to check into the relay.

As for the drivers mirror, only having purchased this car two weeks ago, we have the same problem with not being able to adjust the driver mirror. However, thinking the motor was kaput, I manually moved the mirror, adjusted seats and saved my setting as #2. When opening the car with the only fob we have, all the settings would go to whoever settings were #1...and the mirror moved. Once seated, I pushed #2 and all my settings were retrieved, including the mirror. So the mirror works, just not with the switch?? Funny thing is, no matter how many times we programmed my wife's settings as #1, they do not take. As of last evening, I relinquished the #2 setting so she could have it. I'm hoping when we purchase another fob and have to reprogram both at the same time, that the stored memory settings will be overriden. You might do a search on resetting the key fob memory, perhaps will help.

Good luck with your other issues. Sorry I don't have some definite "instructions to fix".

 

Waller, a lot of your issues seem to be stemming from a bad body processor control module. While it doesn't account for all of the problems, the seats, wipers, and steering column are all controlled by this one module.

Before we just start replacing this module, I would want to confirm that the module is bad. So, if you can get someone with a multimeter, I will help you prove that it is the body processor module.

As long as you can get someone to use a multimeter, I will step you/them through the whole troubleshooting process.

 

Thanks for the replies. My husband can use a multimeter, his question is does it need to be digital or analog meter? He has both so if you could walk us through it would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Waller, either works. So, whatever is more convenient for you and him. I will start with the more likely "important" items to you and then we will work on the others. Don't want to go into information overload on you.

Prior to working on these two issues, I first want you to get into the driver's side footwell area and access the fuse panel there. Make sure that fuse #22 is good. Remove the fuse, do a resistance check across the fuse and then reinstall. Do a quick operation check of the mirrors to make sure that they are still not working.

I will start with the locks. He will first need to remove the door panel on the inside of the door to gain access to a control module that is bolted to the inside. There is only 1 module in the door, so, when you see a block with some wires coming out of it, you have found it. ONce you have found the module, unbolt it so you can have access to the plug on the side of the module.

At this point, he will need to locate the gray/yellow wire (pin #5 on the one plug). He will need to stick the probe in along side the insulation with the red lead and then place the black lead on the body ground. Now attempt to unlock the doors. Did the multimeter jump up to 12 VDC? If yes, did the rest of the doors unlock including this door? If this door did not unlock but all the others did, then attempt to unlock the doors again, but this time move the red lead over to gray/green wire on the lock actuator. When the locks were attempted to be unlocked, did the multimeter jump over 1.000 VDC? If no, then it would appear you have a lock actuator that is starting to go and should be replaced. If the voltage jumped over 1.000 VDC, then you have a bad wire between the door and the door locking relay. If on the first check you didn't get the 12 VDC (anything over 6 VDC would indicate good based on the short time of the signal), then you have a bad door processing module. Now, this all assumes that the door is failing on you during the checks. Because of the intermittent nature of this problem I would be venturing to guess it is the lock actuators. If you need help about how to get those out, let me know. This process works on both doors.

Now, for the mirrors. Let me first start by saying that if you replaced the driver's side rear door module to fix the lock issue, make sure that your mirrors are still in a failed condition.

Now, hubby will need to remove the driver's door panel to gain access to the control module inside there and also to the back of the control switch for manually moving the mirrors (not via the memory buttons). Since you don't mention issues with the passenger side mirror, we can rule out the up/down/left/right knob on the driver's door. So, on the back of the switch for selecting the driver/passenger mirror, have him connect up a multimeter to the orange/blue wire and common. With the switch in "DRIVER" (or however it is labeled), does he have 12 VDC there? If no, then you have a bad selector switch and a new mirror control module is needed. Next, move up in the door to the plug for the mirror. Find the brown wire and the gray wire. Put the red lead on the brown wire, the black lead on the gray wire (use the digital multimeter for this check). Now, using the controls on the door, attempt to move the mirror up and down. When pushing either the up or down buttons, does the multimeter go to + or - 12 VDC? If no, then repeat the check at the connector for the body control module. If you still don't have any power, then you have a bad driver's door control module. If you do have power, you have a wiring problem inside the door.

Hopefully this will cure atleast 2 of your problems. Next we will work on the wipers and whatever else you want. The hard part of this is going to be getting to door panels off. Even that isn't hard. The big thing to keep in mind is that the doors are held in place by friction fingers (7 in the bottom half of the door, along the outer edge for the rear doors). But, before you can loosen those, you need to remove the veneer trim on the top part of the door. You will remove the screw inside of the door handle and then using a thin pry bar, slide it under the rear part of the wood trim and pull it gently towards you a slight bit and then push the wood trim towards the rear bumper. This will release the clips holding it in place. once you get the door panel loose, lift the bottom out a little bit and then lift straight up. The trim panel should be free of the door. WARNING!!!! Before moving the door trim too far, disconnect the speaker.

The front door is very similar other than there is also a screw near the arm rest, you have 8 friction fingers (remember to pull straight out at you for these), and you will have a few more plugs due to the additional things in the door. I would leave these connected since you will be needing to use them.

Hopefully this does it for you with these two things. if you have any more questions, just ask.

 

Thanks for the info, will try this weekend!