My gearshift is now disassembled (car=undrivable)

And I'm trying to replace my J-Gate lights. I can't get
the circuit-board out of the car. The white connector
is stuck in there. I don't know how to proceed.

I have access to new bulbs at a local store, which closes
in 3.5 hours.

SERIOUS SERIOUS PROBLEM NOW

Attached is a pic of the current situation.

Any help is greatly appreciated (time is of the
essence!)


Thanks,

Ian

See my latest post.

 

either use an extension and solder them in situe, or remove the ski slope wood, and try and disconnect it from the white plug under the blue plug on the left hand side.

 

UPDATE

My father sprayed PB blaster (a bit like WD-40, only way more
"penetrant") on the white connector. It dissolved the connection entirely.

The whole thing has a connector, but it's underneath the centre console.
Now, the part needs to be replaced.

While I was awaiting some help from the Jag forums, he went out there,
and put a couple of pieces of the J-gate back on, and started the car,
trying to get it into gear.

I told him how unbelievably stupid this decision was. (now, my
driving may be jeopardised)

Anyway, now I have Gearbox Fault indicated, ABS fault, Engine
Failsafe mode, all imaginable warning lights.

If I install a new circuitboard, can the ECU cope with the changes?

He did all this stuff (he has never looked at the manuals or this forum)
without consulting me. All it took was me being away from the garage
for 15 minutes!!!

What is the next logical step? The circuit board is disconnected, so I
am not going to override the Brake-gearshift interlock, because as
far as I know, that is the only connection between the TCM and the EMS.

Plus, since he started/ turned the car off 10 times, the EMS is not going
to forget this little incident.

 

That J-gate thing have some micro-switches that tells the ECU the position of the gear lever, this is why you have all the warnings , the same happen to me a month ago. If you put everything back, your car can be driven without any problems (OK, I didn't put the ignition 10 times). You can try disconnecting the battery for half hour,to clear the codes, anyway, as you are working on some connectors in the dash you have to cut the electricity.
As for replacing your bulbs, if you have a multimeter to see the polarity on the circuit, you can try some LED bulbs, but choose the smallest diameter ones, 12v, green. The circuits are a little sensible so try a moderate heating for soldering.

 

Ian,
I have a spare circuit board from a 99xj8 shifter you can have for postage or beer money. Or, you could look on e-bay for a shift selector, with board and other parts that may come in handy in the future. You may need to buy more than you need, but, you will have spare parts as I do. PM me if you want me to mail you the board. It will need new bulbs, I presume. Either way, you will need to remove the ski slope. I don't see why a new/use board wouldn't work.

 

Thanks guys, my plan is to get a new circuit board,
and then re-install everything.

I have attached a picture of what happened when
the PB Blaster got on the thing.

My finger is holding the original wire (which leads
all the way down to the connector)

Thanks,

Ian

 

I hope the engine isn't cylinder washed with the 10 times starting! That'd be an additional headache that you don't want to deal with alongside this one.

But Dads are there to try our patience, only Mothers beat them to the post. My Dad is always doing stuff that winds me up, but he is my Dad at the end of the day. For Example, a couple of Months ago we brought my Triumph home from the paint shop in it's fresh coat of Jaguar Phoenix Red. After putting the car into the garage and making sure nothing was going to fall on her, my Dad promptly whacked the front wing with a plastic box, scratching the paint. If this wasn't enough to irritate me, I come home a few days later to find he'd covered the car with some duvets and towels to protect the paint. Which reacted with the soap used on the sheets, which is reason #2 why the car is in the paint shop again.

As far as the J Gate goes, make sure the selector lever is positioned correctly and that you don't damage the micro switches on the R, N & D positions. Hope you get back on the road soon.

 

the original is still fixable if you get the connector tail removed. It's a case of re-soldering back onto the board, the 9 connections.
Remove the ski slope and get a hand down to pull the tail and harness from it's mounting clip, release the tail from the harness connector and take it to the bench and resolder.

The car is undriveable until the board is back and working. You know this. No signal to either Trans control module or BCM or ECM renders it a drive queen, and why it's given the scroll of death in the message centre.

Rae's offer of the new board is great, it'll do the job.