Finding engine number on a XJR '99
#1
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Don't know about 'over there' but in the US any dealer can provide the originally installed engine serial number from the VIN. If you have or suspect a replacement engine that is another story. I think I know where the number is stamped based on the JTIS description but have never been able to read it.
Try this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...57/#post218139
Try this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...57/#post218139
#3
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It should be stamped on a vertical rib of the engine block. To locate look on the Driver side just above where the pinion goes into the steering rack.
The number is actually a date code in the ISO 8601 standard which is Year, Month, Day.
If you did not already know Engines prior to August 18, 2000 are Nicasil. So a Steel Sleeve motor should have 00 08 19 XXXX or higher Stamped on it.
If your engine is dated 00 08 18 then you need to look at the last four digits of the full code. Those should be higher than 1043.
The number is actually a date code in the ISO 8601 standard which is Year, Month, Day.
If you did not already know Engines prior to August 18, 2000 are Nicasil. So a Steel Sleeve motor should have 00 08 19 XXXX or higher Stamped on it.
If your engine is dated 00 08 18 then you need to look at the last four digits of the full code. Those should be higher than 1043.
Last edited by Sinister 1; 04-24-2011 at 10:02 PM.
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks guys , i found it !
It was on a (allmost) impossible to read place between the cooling pipes on the
top front of the engine.
And ..... i have a nicasil engine .
(edit: the number is 990108 1431)
It seems mine is in pretty good condition , the oil color is as new and when opening the oil filler-cap when idling there is no indication of blow-by whatsoever .
Still scary :-)
It was on a (allmost) impossible to read place between the cooling pipes on the
top front of the engine.
And ..... i have a nicasil engine .
(edit: the number is 990108 1431)
It seems mine is in pretty good condition , the oil color is as new and when opening the oil filler-cap when idling there is no indication of blow-by whatsoever .
Still scary :-)
#5
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Contrary to JTIS and other pubs, the engine number location changed, at least for the US and for some engines. The engine number (and piston grade numbers) on my AJ27 engine is on the left side BELOW the exhaust manifold. You can see it through the wheel well, after removing the tire, And no, its not up at the thermostat like my AJ26 engine.
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Interesting that you found it elsewhere on the block. On my 99 it's right where I described and I also have a motor from a 00 that has it in the same place.
As far as the Nicasil goes, it's not a ticking time bomb. Fuels have been low sulfur long enough over there that you don't need to worry about it if you are not having an issue now. Even here in the U.S. sulfur in the fuel was a regional thing in the past but now all fuels are low sulfur.
Because I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable with my motor having Nicasil cylinders. I've got plenty of experience with Nicasil cylinders in Mercury Racing Outboards and the only time I've ever needed to re-nic cylinders was because of a mechanical failure caused by something else like a melted piston or loose wristpin. None of which are nicasil related.
The coating is very robust and superior in wear but it's kryptonite is sulfuric acid. The acid is caused by high sulfur in the fuel (now gone) and moisture (from combustion) which combine to form the acid. Since the sulfur is nearly gone from fuels, it's no longer an issue. If you really want to extend the life of your cylinders you can always make sure that on every start that the engine reaches operating temp. This reduces the amount of moisture left behind in the cylinder.
Ken
As far as the Nicasil goes, it's not a ticking time bomb. Fuels have been low sulfur long enough over there that you don't need to worry about it if you are not having an issue now. Even here in the U.S. sulfur in the fuel was a regional thing in the past but now all fuels are low sulfur.
Because I'm familiar with it, I'm comfortable with my motor having Nicasil cylinders. I've got plenty of experience with Nicasil cylinders in Mercury Racing Outboards and the only time I've ever needed to re-nic cylinders was because of a mechanical failure caused by something else like a melted piston or loose wristpin. None of which are nicasil related.
The coating is very robust and superior in wear but it's kryptonite is sulfuric acid. The acid is caused by high sulfur in the fuel (now gone) and moisture (from combustion) which combine to form the acid. Since the sulfur is nearly gone from fuels, it's no longer an issue. If you really want to extend the life of your cylinders you can always make sure that on every start that the engine reaches operating temp. This reduces the amount of moisture left behind in the cylinder.
Ken
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Both engines are North American and Naturally Aspirated.
FWIW, I've spent a lot of time in assembly plants dealing with operators and the numbers being in different locations doesn't surprise me. I've seen changes like this approved because of an operator change and the new guy is a lefty where the previous was a right hand and the change was a necessity for ergonomics.
FWIW, I've spent a lot of time in assembly plants dealing with operators and the numbers being in different locations doesn't surprise me. I've seen changes like this approved because of an operator change and the new guy is a lefty where the previous was a right hand and the change was a necessity for ergonomics.
#11
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As far as the Nicasil goes, it's not a ticking time bomb.
...
The coating is very robust and superior in wear but it's kryptonite is sulfuric acid.
If you really want to extend the life of your cylinders you can always make sure that on every start that the engine reaches operating temp. This reduces the amount of moisture left behind in the cylinder.
Ken
Thanks for the reassuring words about nicasil , peace of mind on that one
![Icon Attention](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_attention.gif)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BrentGardner
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
28
04-26-2024 03:08 AM
Andrew McVey
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
16
08-27-2015 07:21 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)