Which fuse # is for the two lights on the trunk? I would not like to test one by one... Thanks.

 

The following comments taken from an earlier forum thread on this subject (Brutal, pd_regan, yeldogt).

"First you might look at the wiring harness that is located at the right trunk hinge, it is more than likely has broken wires inside the harness. Separate the wires in the harness loom and give each wire a tug and see if you can feel if any of the wires stretch (probably a broken wire). if you'll take each wire between your fingers and bend it slightly along the length of the hinge area, you'll discover a wire that bends more easily at one point. That's yer busted one. Suggest soldering it and heat-shrinking tube the repair."


"The trunk lights are powered by the body processor module. If the visor lights and glove box light are working then the fuses are good. The fuses are #5 and #7 both 15 amp in the left hand (LH - Left side looking from behind vehicle) heelbox (fusebox under rear seat cushion)."

"The problem might be the trunk micro switch which supplies the ground. You can jump the red/white wire at the trunk switch to ground to see if they illuminate."

"The trunk lid latch has a microswitch hidden in it. This is operated by a plunger which pops out of the mechanism when the trunk lid is released. The lights stay on until you close the lid and the plunger retracts, shutting off the lights."

"Access the microswitch by removing the plugs retaining the lid interior trim (near the trunk/boot latch) and removing the screws and cable retainers, the latch can then be wiggled out without removing the rod from the right hand key unit."

"If the microswitch is OK, You may have to bend the bracket slightly to get the plunger operating properly."

If you need a new microswitch, the part# is LNC6242AC.

Here is a PDF extract of the trunk release mechanism from the Jaguar Tech repair manual:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eewqpxwyfr...icroswitch.pdf

You can skip step 1 and 9 (remove and install trunk lamp assemblies) it is not necessary and you can easily break the clips that hold the lamps (lights) in place. I had to use velcro after I broke both of the clips on one light.

Also you might be able to use some electrical contact cleaner on the existing switch, and exercise it over and over (suggested by H20boy in another thread).

Here are wiring diagrams from the 1999 Jaguar XJ electrical guide for trunk lights and trunk lid release switch (turns lights on and off):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0f4aaagf6p...20diagrams.jpg

You need to click on the image to get a better view after dropbox webpage opens up.

Jim Lombardi

 

Or you could have the same issue I have......a short, or bad connection in the wiring. I haven't taken the time to run it down yet, but I can move the wires, which are run along the right side trunk hinge. Just a thought.

 

Fortunately, or not, when I got my car someone had already done a poor job of re-connecting the wires in the right boot hinge so it was obvious what the cause of the non-working boot/trunk lights was. Not uncommon.

 

Long time Jag owner and have gotten lots of help off this site...thought it was time to give a little something back.


I just had my trunk buttons die the other day (fob, interior by steering wheel, and growler badge) and was able to confirm that my solenoid was working by putting 12v on it. My interior lights worked, so I figured the microswitch was ok.
But I couldn't find any broken wires along the hinge. After reading some more, that still seemed like the most likely cause by far...






So I started watching that wiring loom while moving the boot lid up and down, and it looked like most of the kinking action was further back than I was looking.
I ended up having to take off the back finisher panel over the gas tank,etc to get good exposure, cut the zip-tie holding the loom to the boot lid piston, and unwrapping the wiring loom all the way back into the little corrugated tubing thing. Getting all that open revealed three broken wires and another one crimped and pinched with broken insulation.
So I just wanted to second the fact that broken wires are common culprits with boot button malfunctions, and to say that the most likely point of breakage seems to be deeper into the wiring loom (more proximal) than I originally assumed by reading the posts.
But a little bit of solder and shrink wrap later, and everything's working as it should. Thanks, and hope this helps clarify some things.

 

Hi Guys,

My 2000 S Type's trunk lights are not working with the trunk open. The weird thing is when I first connect the battery the lights will illuminate then after I close the trunk and re-open it, the lights won't come on.

I do have the plastic lid piece firmly in place and the plunger switch is new and works. No boot open message on dash.

Fuse is good, other courtesy lights working. I do not believe there is a micro switch in the trunk lid latch on the 00 S Type.

I'm aiming towards additional wires being broken/intermittently broken within the right side boot harness as I have found at least two broken wires within the insulation previously, which I soldered and repaired.

I'm going to look into this tomorrow. Anything I'm missing?

 

Thanks for this very informative information. I will be searching for broken wires as I have the same problem with my 2000 XJ8!