Some advise please....
My son borrowed my car:
1999 XJR
he had a blow out front right tire, took him a while to get off the road.
the tire tread ripped and began to flap, denting the fender and tearing out the side marker light. It was running when he stopped. turned it off and the hazards on for a few hours. went back and turned the hazards off. the next day I put on a new tire and rim tried to start it. it wouldn't turn over at all. tried to jump start it, still nothing. towed it home.


Charged the battery out of the car reinstalled battery.


still wont start, Just a click coming from somewhere on the right side in the dash or under the hood. I cant tell.


When I turn the key on I get multiple fault codes.
system check
transmission fault
electrical fault
suspension fault
fail safe engine mode
incorrect part fitted
in that order, I turn ignition and nothing but the faint click somewhere in front right side.


Where to start looking?? Please help I cannot afford the mechanic.

 

Are you sure that the battery is fully charged and the battery terminal connections are good? Low voltage will make the starter solenoid click but may not be enough to turn the starter. If you have a volt meter you can check the battery voltage. You want to see 12.5 volts at least. Poor connections will do the same thing. Hope it helps.

 

I charged the battery to full overnight with a charger. it did not have a problem starting before the tire blow out. could something happen during the jump start? I do not believe it is the solenoid clicking Ill get another person to turn the key for me and see where its coming from. Also ill get a volt meter as well. what about all the fault codes?

 

Your battery is toast. When mine was flat I had the exact same list of codes.
You'll find with old batteries that once they've been drained flat, they never fully recover, and you will probably find that even though you've had it on the charger, it still won't hold a charge. It's not like they last forever anyway...

Best bet is a new battery.

 

Hi Ryan,

The sudden appearance of multiple fault codes is usually caused by a loss of battery power, a weak battery, or an electrical fault such as a short or an interrupted ground. Chances are good that if you clear all those codes and are able to get the car started, the codes will not reappear. Running the hazard lamps for an extended period could definitely drain your battery.

Regarding your no-start condition, one possibility that comes to mind is that when the side marker lamp was torn out, the wiring shorted and blew a fuse. It would be worth checking all the relevant fuses.

The clicking you are hearing could be the starter relay, which is in the Control Module Enclosure on the firewall/bulkhead in the engine compartment, on the right side as viewed from the driver's seat. The starter relay is in a brown-colored base.

I am attaching a pdf showing the location of the relays. I would be happy to send you the Electrical Guide in pdf form if you send me your email address via private message.

Please keep us informed.

Don

 

I bought a cheap volt meter at Orielys. the battery is reading 12.49 volts.
that's after I have been locking unlocking trunk and doors. checking radio and lights seems I have power to everything.
Ill look into the fuses going to the marker lights. I have already looked over the starter fuses and have swapped the starter relay with the A/C relay.
nothing has changed

 

the clicking sound is coming from inside the dash passenger side and with the glove box open it clicks at the same time the glove box light goes on and off. the sound is right under the wood grain panel right in front of passenger seat. the starter relay is not clicking at all.

 

Go to the Electrical link in my signature, it may help you out. Was the fender liner ripped out? There are wiring harnesses hidden behind the liner.

 

yes the fender liner was ripped out, the side marker light is the only wire damage. there is still power at the wire ends.


how could I clear the fault codes is there a way?


there is power at the starter but don't think it gets any power at the solenoid

 

avt007


I will chase those leads out tomorrow after work see if I can find anything.

 

Check your negative battery cable (No plastic covering on cable--improper ground). Switched out for a new one ($104. at the Jaguar dealership). The problem was solved. That's how I fixed the problem with my XJR.

 

Ryan,

You could test VIAPA2's theory by using a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to the body ground screw.

Here's the parts diagram for the battery cables:

Battery and Fixings - Parts For XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

Aristocrat Motors shows that cable available at $53.22:

1999 Jaguar Parts - Jaguar Parts Center - Call (800) 510-1401 for Genuine Jaguar Parts and Accessories

You could probably fabricate a replacement for $20 with parts from an auto store. But I have to wonder why the tire blowout would cause the battery negative cable in the trunk to suddenly go bad or lose its contact either the body or battery. Did the car encounter any significant collisions or road bumps as your son was trying to get it off the road?

Don

 

I don't think this matches all the data, but there is a good chance the "event" tripped the inertia switch. Make sure it is reset, then look at the "false bulkhead connectors" and all of the fuse panel large power connectors for tightness. I know from experience a shredding tire can cause some serious mechanical disturbances in the car.

 

I had hit a pot hole back in nov and it took out my xj8.. Took mechanic 5 days to figure it was just a blown fuse that needed to be replaced.

 

sparkenzap


Thank you for the "inertia switch" tip.


That was exactly the problem!!!


I reset the switch and the blower motor started blowing air, I didn't even realize that wasn't working?


The codes cleared and the car started right up No problem!!


Thank you good sir! You are the Man!!!


I think Ill take it for a ride sporting the new rims I had to purchase in order to tow it home.


I LOVE THIS FORUM! IT IS THE BOMB!


I APPRICIATE EVERYONE INPUT.

 

Ross,

Congratulations on identifying this fault! Over the years, the inertia switch has been suggested countless times but I can only recall a few cases in which it was actually tripped. I'd almost given up on ever suggesting it again, but you nailed it this time! Well done!

Cheers,

Don

 

I had an inertia event one time when my floor jack let the car down too fast!

 

Thanks Ross and Don, for helping members out so much. Your idea of the inertia switch prompted me to update my electrical troubleshooting piece with info on how it works and where it is located.
Hopefully the link will be updated in a couple days.

My next big project is replacing fuel pumps, and since I can't find a DYI, I may build one, depending on my mood after doing the job!

 

Give some thought to removing the rear bolts from the subframe after you have loosened the 6 front mounting bolts, allowing the rear of the subframe to drop down about 4 to 6 inches- enough to get your paws up there to remove the fuel lines. Also, i found the cheap plastic quick connect removal tools to work better than the more expensive aluminum ones. I use a piece of 1/2 inch conduit about 6 inches long and split along the long way as a tool to push on the quick connect tool.

 

Thanks Ross, I'll give it a go. I used the cheap tools when pulling the engine, they worked great.

First, I have to get my son's Jag off the hoist, it needs upper tensioners. It never ends.........