Hello again gentleman. I have done much reading and trial and error to get me where I am today...I have purchased a 1998 Jaguar XJ8 that is not running. I have read all about the Nikasil issues and cylinder washing so I am familiar with that...

I have confirmed 40lb of fuel at the rail, also checked all fuses, but have NO spark. I have replaced the spark plugs with new ones and still get no spark. The coil packs are also brand new. I now have a cylinder washed engine due to trying to crank with NO spark. What causes no spark besides coil packs and spark plugs???

*side note: I can't find the inertia switch though I don't think thats the issue since I have fuel*

Thanks in advance. I feel like Sherlock Holmes trying to solve a riddle. I will be here smoking my pipe...awaiting your logic.

 

Pull up the wiring diagram from my page at http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairElectrical.htm for a 98 xj8 and go to diagram 4.4 engine management and you will see a relay (ignition Coil) you should be checking. And if you look on page 29 you will see the location of the relay. I hope this helps!

 

Gus, Once again, you've provided an excellent suggestion! I am amazed at your knowledge and efforts to help those of us in need. Thanks for taking the time to pull up files and attaching them for reference. Keep it up please.
Ralph

 

Yes thanks Gus...If it weren't for this forum I would not even have purchased this car. I will be checking relays tomorrow thanks to Gus's wiring diagrams.

 

And if I check that relay and it's good but I still have no spark then where should I go from there? Also, where is the Inertia switch in this vehicle?

 

If I recall the Inertia switch will cut the fuel off as well. If you have fuel I would not be concerned with it. As for the relay check to see if you have power to it then check the control to it. If you have no power to it or control power to it then work your way back. Use the oneline, I found printing it and staying focused on the problem you can track it back. We recently found several no start and other problems related to poor connections (bolted & plugged in) so do not just look at it LOOK AT IT! If necessary use contact cleaner, I use it along with Di-Electric spray both by CRC. You will hear from the experts on this but I use this S*** on everything!

 

After reading this post again do you have fuel? Or do you have fuel pressure? Check it with a gauge if you haven’t already.

 

Ralph,
Thank you! Your comments were well received.

 

I have fuel pressure...41 PSI at the rail...and spark plugs covered in fuel. So I am certain we have proper fuel. As far as spark goes...if I pull the coil pack and plug and leave the plug in it watching for spark I get NONE...not even an orange or yellow spark. I am testing this correctly I believe.

 

I have not done this but if it were me I would unplug the lead to one of the coils and check it with a volt meter and see if you are getting voltage pulsating to the coil pack. I am not sure what range to put it on so start with a high range and work your way down till you get a reading. The other is a bit old fashioned and that is to remove one of the coil packs and install a plug tester between the plug and the coil pack and give it a try. It should light up identifying spark.

http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...cker-4424.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...ugs-97577.html

 

If memory serves me - you must be careful when checking for spark with the plug out as you can destroy the coil. I could be confusing this with another one of my cars -- Just make sure you do this correctly -- someone will chime in I am sure.

Why were all the coils replaced?

Normally its safe to assume that all the coils would not fail together and you have an upstream power problem or control module failure.


Did you check to see if any codes are stored?

 

You may be correct I am not strong in this area of testing and could use a little advice. I do know this it will put you on your but if you are not safe.

 

You absolutely can not do this on my Porsche Cayenne -- they have a huge coil problem as do other VW sourced electrical systems - so I have an unfortunate amount of knowledge especially after replacing all 8 of them 3 times in 40k. I also remember discussions regarding the testing of coils on our Mercury fleet vehicles -- they need to be tested installed.

I remember the issue had to do with arcing and over-current.

 

Use this link and go to step #3 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=30792

I never had a reason to check the spark with a coil pack; however if I had to do this I would use the plug tester and test it like you do on the older systems. I would be cautious not to lean any of it to metal to give me a bad reading.

 

UPDATE: I pulled the coil and plug and placed the plug in the coil outside the block, grounded the plug and cranked. Got spark! So now I know we have fuel and spark. Could it be the timing? Next logical step?

 

The most common problem when you have spark and fuel and your car is a 1998 xj8 and it will not start cylinder washing and the links below will help you with that. The other problem I was going to suggest is the shifter selector switch but if you have fuel and spark I am assuming that the car wants to start but unable to develop compression to start. Please read the no start first.

When cranking the engine under normal conditions it has a distinctive sound and you know that it will start or close to it. With cylinder washing and the engine is cranking is sounds like it is just spinning the engine around and a lack of compression (hard to explain). Read the attached links and listen to your engine.

http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNoStart.htm
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNikasilSulfur.htm

 

MrRadar: I had what I thought was cylinder washing, although I later determined my engine was not nikasil lined. I eventually got her started by cranking in cycles at half throttle for 30 seconds with 5 minute cool down, so as not to burn up the starter. It finally started sputtering on the fourth go around and fired for good on fifth try. I had also cleaned MAF, Throttle Body, & replaced fuel filter(not your issue though, since you have fuel at the plugs), so who knows what magical combination cured my ailments. Good luck
Ralph

 

Gus..thanks for all your help. I wish I had been more specific advising you guys as far as what I have done and read so far. I am experiencing washed cylinders with little to no compression. I have read all that you suggested, and I even tried to start the car using the methods used in the articles...a little oil in the cylinders and holding my foot to the floor and lifting while cranking and such...every once in a while I would get a bit of compression like sounds and bogging down like it wants to grab and start but nothing. I had done this one and off for about 1/2 hour taking break as to not burn up the starter. This is why I though maybe the timing was off. I get a P1000 code and that is all. I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks again for all your help.

 

Add a little oil crank a few times and let it sit! About 30min to over night with a charged battery try it again. Do not give up! We have no quick and easy way to do it.

 

I suggest holding the throttle to the floor and DO NOT lift it while cranking until it fires. As I understand it, there is an override in the ecu that prevents fuelling while at WOT.