Passenger side stop light and back-up sensors problem
#1
Passenger side stop light and back-up sensors problem
My car's problems seem well organized and helping each other... and it also appears I am about to live through every one of them.
This morning my car greeted me with long beep when I put it in reverse and with "check rear light"(or so) message when I pressed the breaks. First I obviously ran to the store and bought new lamps, only to find out that changing them did not help. After reading on this forum for some time, I swapped lamp assemblies to confirm that they both work, and even found that original lamp is still good. Other lamps in assembly work so I guess it is not a "bad ground" problem. By now I know about SLCM and can get it out and pop it open. It looks good - nothing seem burned inside. Checked "fuse number 1" , and put everything back together...
Anyone has any ideas as to what to do ? Is there any relation between back-up distance sensors and break light?
This morning my car greeted me with long beep when I put it in reverse and with "check rear light"(or so) message when I pressed the breaks. First I obviously ran to the store and bought new lamps, only to find out that changing them did not help. After reading on this forum for some time, I swapped lamp assemblies to confirm that they both work, and even found that original lamp is still good. Other lamps in assembly work so I guess it is not a "bad ground" problem. By now I know about SLCM and can get it out and pop it open. It looks good - nothing seem burned inside. Checked "fuse number 1" , and put everything back together...
Anyone has any ideas as to what to do ? Is there any relation between back-up distance sensors and break light?
#3
Possible, I found wiring diagram in another thread and it appears that trailer connector that is hanging right next to SLCM has a pin that carry stop light power from the relay (same feed that feeds center mounted stop lights). As a temporary solution(for next 5-10yrs) I am thinking to take that pin and connect it to the wire that comes out of SLCM and goes to the break lamp.
I am not sure if I should cut the wire (that connects SLCM and lamp) from SLCM or not, it could be bad (back-feeding) or good (presence of the current when I break may prevent "check rear light" message). Hope someone knows and will post here.
Thanks.
I am not sure if I should cut the wire (that connects SLCM and lamp) from SLCM or not, it could be bad (back-feeding) or good (presence of the current when I break may prevent "check rear light" message). Hope someone knows and will post here.
Thanks.
Last edited by NJ2003XJ8; 06-26-2014 at 08:22 PM.
#4
here is information taken from the electrical guide showing the wiring for the reverse parking assistance system:
Right click on image and select open link in new tab, then go to the new tab and when the webpage opens click on the image to view as its original large image size.
Jim Lombardi
Right click on image and select open link in new tab, then go to the new tab and when the webpage opens click on the image to view as its original large image size.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 06-26-2014 at 09:33 PM.
#5
Thank you Jim, this is great help for tomorrow's research.
For those interested my temporary solution is now in place. Basically, instead of connecting right stop lamp to SLCM (pin 3), I connected it to "Trailer connector/Stop light" (pin 7). Since connector is right next to SLCM all I needed is a short piece of wire.
Also, while I was there I noticed that bunches of wires that go to rear lamp assemblies are dangerously sitting right against the sharp metal edge of that opening where assembly goes. I will not be surprised if my problems are caused by something heavy in my trunk hitting plastic cover and pinching those wires against the metal edge and shorting them to the car body. It is a good idea to put some electric tape or even something stronger to prevent it.
Here are the pictures, one of my wiring (white wire inserted into yellow trailer connector is "screwed" with wire cut from module),
and another pic shows lamp assembly wires sitting against the edge (with some tape around them I just put).
For those interested my temporary solution is now in place. Basically, instead of connecting right stop lamp to SLCM (pin 3), I connected it to "Trailer connector/Stop light" (pin 7). Since connector is right next to SLCM all I needed is a short piece of wire.
Also, while I was there I noticed that bunches of wires that go to rear lamp assemblies are dangerously sitting right against the sharp metal edge of that opening where assembly goes. I will not be surprised if my problems are caused by something heavy in my trunk hitting plastic cover and pinching those wires against the metal edge and shorting them to the car body. It is a good idea to put some electric tape or even something stronger to prevent it.
Here are the pictures, one of my wiring (white wire inserted into yellow trailer connector is "screwed" with wire cut from module),
and another pic shows lamp assembly wires sitting against the edge (with some tape around them I just put).
#6
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ThatsNoMoon (09-14-2018)
#7
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#10
That was to fix for break light/SLCM. One of the members asked for chip specs so I added the picture in case anyone else will need it. .
For other issue I had to get new sensor. It could be that water on sensors simply affects the operation, does wiping them help?. Or maybe water gets into contacts.
For other issue I had to get new sensor. It could be that water on sensors simply affects the operation, does wiping them help?. Or maybe water gets into contacts.
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