Tie Rods ...
#1
Tie Rods ...
Rebuilt the front suspension, however, I couldn't get the left outer tie rod end to release, even with a couple of 18" pipe wrenches. The part is in reasonable condition, so I left it there, for now. So, I will need to replace the inner tie rod to fix this problem. I can't find any information on replacing the inner tie rod, but, the part is available. Of course, the Jag dealer here wants to replace the whole rack, so any information on the procedure would be appreciated.
#2
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#3
Heat and an impact gun will do the trick.
This tool is awesome for inner tie rods:
http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-t...set-96558.html
This is my favorite for outers and ball joints:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
This tool is awesome for inner tie rods:
http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-t...set-96558.html
This is my favorite for outers and ball joints:
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html
Last edited by adam699; 12-10-2011 at 08:38 PM.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#4
Hi
Here is an extract on the steering gear removal & install per JTIS shop repair manual (also covers inner tie rod):
2002 XJ Steering Gear R&I.pdf
Jim Lombardi
Here is an extract on the steering gear removal & install per JTIS shop repair manual (also covers inner tie rod):
2002 XJ Steering Gear R&I.pdf
Jim Lombardi
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#5
Thanks for the links, Adam; that inner tie rod tool looks interesting.
Sean - no, haven't done the heat, yet. I was pressed for time when I was putting the suspension together and decided to wait for another weekend. Now I'm thinking of just taking the car down to the dealer and have them replace the inner tie rod and do the alignment, If they'll do the job without wanting to replace the whole rack.
Jim - I didn't see anything in the link that addressed the inner tie rods. After looking at the tool in the link that Adam sent, it doesn't appear to be too hard of a job (?)
Mark
Sean - no, haven't done the heat, yet. I was pressed for time when I was putting the suspension together and decided to wait for another weekend. Now I'm thinking of just taking the car down to the dealer and have them replace the inner tie rod and do the alignment, If they'll do the job without wanting to replace the whole rack.
Jim - I didn't see anything in the link that addressed the inner tie rods. After looking at the tool in the link that Adam sent, it doesn't appear to be too hard of a job (?)
Mark
#6
Hi
See page 2, Step 4 shows image of tie rod, under step 5 - shows Tie-Rod tool, and step 6 says -
6.
1. Fit the special tool to tie rod end.
2. Tighten the tool bolt to release the taper.
• Remove the tool.
Locate the tie rod end into the steering arm.• Install a new nut.• Tighten the nut to 22-28 Nm.
See page 2, Step 4 shows image of tie rod, under step 5 - shows Tie-Rod tool, and step 6 says -
6.
NOTE:
Right-hand shown, left-hand similar.
Detach both of the tie rod ends.Right-hand shown, left-hand similar.
1. Fit the special tool to tie rod end.
2. Tighten the tool bolt to release the taper.
• Remove the tool.
Page 10 - under step 10 shows illustration of tie rod, step 11 says
11. NOTE: Right-hand shown, left-hand similar.
Attach the tie rod end.Locate the tie rod end into the steering arm.• Install a new nut.• Tighten the nut to 22-28 Nm.
Here is the part number and image of the inner tie rod:
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 12-12-2011 at 11:39 PM.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#7
Jim - yes, that tells me how to release the tie rod from the hub, but I know how to do that and have the tool. I'm looking for how to release the inner tie rod from the rack. From the picture, it appears to be pretty straight forward: get the inner tie rod tool, take off the boot (gaitor?), operate tool ... I have new boots, so not worried if I have to cut one off. Then again, I just might try the heat trick ... decisions, decisions.
Thanks, Mark
Thanks, Mark
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#8
If the outer tie rod end is a tapered stud and you have enough room ...
loosen the nut, but do not remove. Put a heavy sledge hammer on one side of the steering arm, whack the other side of the steering arm with a club hammer several times.
This sets up a vibration to loosen the taper and the taper forces itself apart. The heavy sledge is to have enough inertia so that it can act as an anvil. Just hammering on one side of the arm does not work nearly as well ... if at all.
loosen the nut, but do not remove. Put a heavy sledge hammer on one side of the steering arm, whack the other side of the steering arm with a club hammer several times.
This sets up a vibration to loosen the taper and the taper forces itself apart. The heavy sledge is to have enough inertia so that it can act as an anvil. Just hammering on one side of the arm does not work nearly as well ... if at all.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#9
Hi Mark
Here are few how to replace inner tierods, I found on the internet. None of them are Jaguar repairs, but they all seem to show the same procedure using the special tool similar to the Harbor tool.
The first listed here has a video that includes using the Harbor tool.
http://www.ifitjams.com/tie_rod.htm
These others mention the removal of the inner tierod boot - here is example:
http://www.ehow.com/how_6869893_change-tie-rods.html
http://forums.motivemag.com/showthread.php?2902749
Hope this helps
Maybe you can take some photos and create a DIY about the repair. If you need help with formatting text or inserting photos, send me a private message or email and I will provide help with it.
Jim Lombardi
Here are few how to replace inner tierods, I found on the internet. None of them are Jaguar repairs, but they all seem to show the same procedure using the special tool similar to the Harbor tool.
The first listed here has a video that includes using the Harbor tool.
http://www.ifitjams.com/tie_rod.htm
These others mention the removal of the inner tierod boot - here is example:
Remove the inner tie rod end boot by using the wire cutters and twisting and cutting the clamp holding it in place. Pull the boot off the shaft.
http://www.ehow.com/how_6869893_change-tie-rods.html
http://forums.motivemag.com/showthread.php?2902749
Hope this helps
Maybe you can take some photos and create a DIY about the repair. If you need help with formatting text or inserting photos, send me a private message or email and I will provide help with it.
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 12-13-2011 at 07:33 AM.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#10
From my experience, Jag does not sell the inner tie rod separately. Its not that the dealer WANTS to sell you a whole rack, but they probably aren't going to search out an aftermarket inner tie rod. They are available. Rebuilders can get them so why can't we? Try Welsh Enterprises. I know they can find a whole bunch of stuff even when its not listed on their website. I also get some stuff from Chris at Jaguar West Chester parts. He usually can find stuff if you give him time.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#11
Hi
Here are 2 websites that sell the inner tierods:
Coventry West - weblink Coventry West, Inc. - Online Store (MNC3901ADEND $59.95) they are located in Lithonia, GA.
Rock Auto Parts (located in Madison, WI )
I probably would buy the one from Coventry West, but I have received very good parts from Rock Auto.
I do not know anything about Klarius/Quinton Hazell parts quality. The information I found on the internet says it is Europe's Largest after market auto parts company, headquarters are in Manchester UK.
Here are 2 websites that sell the inner tierods:
Coventry West - weblink Coventry West, Inc. - Online Store (MNC3901ADEND $59.95) they are located in Lithonia, GA.
Rock Auto Parts (located in Madison, WI )
I probably would buy the one from Coventry West, but I have received very good parts from Rock Auto.
I do not know anything about Klarius/Quinton Hazell parts quality. The information I found on the internet says it is Europe's Largest after market auto parts company, headquarters are in Manchester UK.
Last edited by jimlombardi; 12-13-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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hispeed42 (12-16-2011)
#12
#13
#14
The heat worked and the new tie rod end is installed. Now all I need is to get the front end alligned, and the tires are due for replacement.
Thanks again for everyone's comments; there's a lot of good information in this thread.
By the way, I installed the Poly bushings from Paramount Performance. So far, I'm totally satisfied. The ride is slightly stiffer than OEM bushings, so good cornering without spoiling the typical smoothness. One rainy day here since the rebuild, and no squeaking, so the copper based grease that was supplied with the bushings seems to be working as advertised.
Mark
Thanks again for everyone's comments; there's a lot of good information in this thread.
By the way, I installed the Poly bushings from Paramount Performance. So far, I'm totally satisfied. The ride is slightly stiffer than OEM bushings, so good cornering without spoiling the typical smoothness. One rainy day here since the rebuild, and no squeaking, so the copper based grease that was supplied with the bushings seems to be working as advertised.
Mark
#15
#16
This morning while checking my email, there was the "Your 2020 Year in Review" from the Forum. When I clicked on it, there was more than 2020 in there, and this post was one of them. So, I thought that I would provide the update that yeldogt requested as it's only been 11 years since that was posted and most, if not all, that responded back then are still active here.
The shop that I took the car to wasn't able to align the front end with those poly bushings. When I was putting them in I noticed that the inner sleeve was somewhat loose on the bolt, so that may be the problem; don't know for sure, but I still have the bushings in a box (I was looking at them the other day), so I might try using a sleeve from the stock bushings the next time the front end is due for a rebuild. That might be a few years as I've had it rebuilt again back in November of '15. Anyway, I ended up going back to stock bushings for the upper and lower wishbones; the sway bar bushings worked well and are still in there. In fact, they look good, but the links appear to need some attention soon. Those were replaced at the same time as the bushings.
So, there's the update for 2011. Merry Christmas and Happy new Year to all for 2021 !!
.
PS (edit) - When I had the suspension done in '15, the shop where I had the work done put in a new steering rack....
The shop that I took the car to wasn't able to align the front end with those poly bushings. When I was putting them in I noticed that the inner sleeve was somewhat loose on the bolt, so that may be the problem; don't know for sure, but I still have the bushings in a box (I was looking at them the other day), so I might try using a sleeve from the stock bushings the next time the front end is due for a rebuild. That might be a few years as I've had it rebuilt again back in November of '15. Anyway, I ended up going back to stock bushings for the upper and lower wishbones; the sway bar bushings worked well and are still in there. In fact, they look good, but the links appear to need some attention soon. Those were replaced at the same time as the bushings.
So, there's the update for 2011. Merry Christmas and Happy new Year to all for 2021 !!
.
PS (edit) - When I had the suspension done in '15, the shop where I had the work done put in a new steering rack....
Last edited by hispeed42; 12-16-2020 at 10:11 AM.
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