This post is a reference for the home mechanic to assist in preforming a 4-wheel brake job on an 2004 XJ VDP or similar model equipped with the integral electronic rear parking brake system. It is the compilation of hours or research and trial & error which may save someone a lot of time and frustration. Read it carefully, print it and the attachments and then start on your brake job!

Tools needed: a set of metric sockets with ratchet and a set of metric box/open-end wrenches, a heavy dead-blow or brass hammer, a large C-Clamp to compress the front calipers and a special tool set designed for retracting the rear calipers with their integral parking brake feature. This tool is available for free loan or purchase at Autozone parts stores (OEM Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set for $60.00 Part Number: 27111), or Amazon.com for purchase. The rear calipers particular to the Jaguar requires this tool, which rotates and threads the pistons back into the caliper on vehicles with self-adjusting parking brakes. Without this special piston rewinding tool servicing the rear brakes is almost impossible. OEM/Disc brake caliper tool set (27111) | Disc Brake Caliper Tool | AutoZone.com_


Replacement parts: There are many ultra-high performance brake parts available that are extremely expensive, however I don't go racing this car. I would grade my use as "normal" city and then highway/interstate driving in the range of 60-75 MPH. I utilized readily available quality brake parts that are usually available locally at an import part supplier. I found 4-Centric Rotors and 2-sets Centric Posi-quiet Ceramic Brake Pads available locally that fit perfectly and cost in the range of $300.00.

Metro Auto Parts 414-259-4100. $317.92 for everything.

Front rotors Centric Premium@ $62.00 part #120.61077
Rear rotors Centric Standard@ $32.83 part #121.61062

Front pads Centric Posi Quite ceramic pads@ $60.00 pr. part #105.09330
Rear pads Centric Posi Quite ceramic pads @ $51.40 pr. part #105.09440

Also available at Brakewarehouse.com if you can't find locally.Vehicle:2004, JAGUAR, VANDEN PLAS, V8-4196cc 4.2L F/IPosi-quiet Ceramic Brake Pads W/shims

Ceramic verses Semi-metallic Brake Pads

Ceramic Pads are the way to go. The Total Brake job on my 04 XJ VDP and now my 2011 XF SC with ceramic pads work great and virtually no dust. Semi-metallic brake pads are more abrasive and wear rotors faster. I have found more rotor wear and brake dust using semi-metallic pads, not less rotor wear. Ceramic pads cause less rotor wear and less visible dust.

Since they were first used on a few original applications in 1985, friction materials that contain ceramic formulations have become recognized for their desirable blend of traits. These pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter because the ceramic compound helps dampen noise by generating a frequency beyond the human hearing range.

Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.

Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.

Basically I think the evolution of ceramic pads is an engineering improvement over past materials and they don't eat rotors they save them.

At 40 K miles the front and rear rotors are worn and would have to be resurfaced, instead just replace them. I use the ceramic brake pads instead of semi-metallic because they leave noticeably less brake dust on the wheels. The rear brakes usually last longer, however in this model the electric parking park automatically engages when the vehicle is placed in "Park." This maybe the cause of additional rear brake wear.

Supplies: Two cans of brake cleaner spray and a quart of DOT4 brake fluid, Locktite thread locker or similar product and plastic tubing to drain fluid when bleeding brakes. You may invest in a "one-man brake bleeder" or get a friend, a glass jar and duct tape to bleed them.

Safety First: Always wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves to protect you from brake fluid and dust. Always use jack stands to support the car when the wheels are removed. Always chock the tires and use a floor jacket to lift the vehicle. Never climb under the vehicle under any circumstances.

First: Get all the parts, tools and supplies. Take your time and be safe. Its actually very easy to complete with the right tools.

Before lifting the car remember it has 4-wheel air ride and the automatically engaging electric rear parking brake. First chock the wheels, Start the car, open the trunk and release the hood, depress the brake pedal, disengage the parking brake by pushing the lever down, then while holding the parking brake lever down- shut off the vehicle. Holding down the parking brake lever should prevent it from engaging when the vehicle is shut off. Go to the trunk, lift the spare tire cover and disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. This will disable the air ride system from operating while you are jacking the vehicle. Now you are ready to slightly loosen the wheel lug nuts then jack the vehicle. Open the hood and open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir located under the cover on the drivers-side above the firewall. You can do one wheel at a time or all by using four jack stands.

Front Wheels: Remove tire. Place a pan under the brake assembly and flush the grim off with brake cleaner. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the caliper mounting brackets. Remove the caliper from the rotor. It may bind slightly, use a dead-blow or brass hammer to knock it back off the rotor. Support caliper. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to the vehicle. The bolts have thread locker applied and are difficult to remove. You may need a lot of effort and the dead blown hammer to impact the ratchet handle to loosen them. After removing the caliper bracket. Remove the retaining clips around the wheel studs that hold the rotor to the hub. Snap them or break them off. The rotor should just pull off. If not spray around the joint between the rotor and the hub with penetrating oil. Then use your hammer to persuade it off.



Compress the piston straight back into the front caliper using an old disc brake pads and a C-clamp or utilizing the brake service kit. Clean the thread locker from the Caliper mounting bolts with a wire brush. Install the new disc. Apply thread locker to the caliper mounting bolts and torque to 135 Ft.lbs. Remove any clips from old pads and install on new pads. Make sure slide pins which have rubber bolts around them on the caliper mounting brackets are free and lubricated. Install the pads on to the caliper mounting bracket with pad material contacting rotor. Slide caliper over pads and orientate flat edge of slide pins to notch on caliper then install caliper mounting bolts torque to 25 Ft.lbs.






Rear Wheels: Rear wheel procedure is the same as the front expect for additional complications caused by the electric parking park system. The cable attached to the rear calipers should be in a relaxed, non-tension condition. If not follow the above procedure to release the parking brake.

After removing the rear caliper, the piston is retracted by using the Special piston retraction tool which threads the piston back into the bore. Do Not Attempt to press the rear caliper piston straight into the bore. It will be ruined. Use the proper tool and it takes seconds, without it you're screwed.







Important when threading the piston into the bottom of the bore, note that you my have to turn it out slightly using the tool so that the ""V" notch on the face of the piston is perpendicular with the length of the caliper. A pin located on the back of the rear brake pad must fit into this notch. Check for proper alignment of the notch with the pin on the pad before assembly.

Remove the caliper bracket and rotor using the same procedure as the front wheel. Clean Caliper mounting bracket bolts, install rotor, apply thread locker and mount caliper bracket. Install brake pads and caliper same as front wheel.

Flushing Bleeding Brake system: Follow factory brake bleeding procedure in attached PDF file Jag Brake Bleeding. To flush the entire system start at the passenger rear and continue the pressing the brake pedal to pump the fluid through the system while opening and closing the bleeder valve until clean brake fluid can be seen exiting the bleeder tube and no bubbles are present. (Press pedal down to floor then open valve, watch for show, close bleeder valve, release pedal. Repeat.)Move to the driver rear, then passenger front then driver front.

Add fresh brake fluid to reservoir as you flush and bleed system.

Take special note of page 3 of the brake bleeding procedure document "Additional Procedure to Bleed New Calipers with Integral Park Brake Mechanism" Follow this process for both rear calipers starting with the passenger rear caliper.

After following the rear bleeding procedure and completing the front calipers you are satisfied that no bubbles are in the system and the fluid is now clean mount the tires. Lower the vehicle and chock the wheels. Torque wheel nuts to 90 Ft.lbs. Attach ground cable back onto battery.

Reset Electronic Rear Parking Brake: Follow the procedure on pages 3 and 4 in the attached PDF file Electronic Parking Brake Calibration. It is critical to calibrate the parking brake system after any brake work.

After completing calibration process you are done. Remove Wheel Chocks! Take a test drive, if brake pedal is soft. Re-bleed the entire system using the special procedure for the rear calipers and then the front. After successful test drive top off brake fluid. Save this procedure for after your next 40K miles of fun driving.

 

Now I wish I could find the procedure for servicing Brembo calipers & rotors...

 

+1

Excellent post.

 

Thank you for taking the time to do that for all of us.

 

thanks! I'll be doing this soon enough

 

Awesome! Thanks a bunch. I just did the Porsche and will have to get to the Jag soon enough.

 

Go to Pelicanparts.com and check out their tech section on any of the modern Porsche's as they all have Brembo brakes on them. They have a good step by step on pad and rotor replacement along with a how to on rebuilding calipers. Brembo's are pretty straight forward to work on.

 

I've bled the brakes and changed the rotors and pads myself. No more difficult than for the Dodge Caravan really.

 

I agree with haggis95, the front pads are easy to change while the rear pads take a bit longer if you dont have the "special tool". I got my new rotors today and will be installing them this week.

 

Did my 04 VDP without the tool. Wasn't overly difficult.

 

Rotating a c-clamp clockwise to compress while rotating the piston counter clockwise to retract under tension is complicated and difficult. Its simple with the proper tool.

While it is possible to retract the rear caliper with out the use of a free loaner tool, doing so may result in damage to the internal parking brake components located inside the bore and the piston which results in the caliper not releasing completely and dragging on the rotor.

While this dragging may be at first unnoticed while driving, it can be detected by a burning smell and feeling excessive heat on the rotor compared to others. Dragging will also be visible on the brake pad as a white ash and excessive brake dust on the wheel. Heat build up will also transfer through the caliper and heat the brake fluid excessively. It can also be felt by lifting the wheels placing the the car in neutral with parking brake release and physically rotating the wheels by hand.

Complications can also occur after retracting the piston in not orientating by rotating the notch in the piston face with the pin on the inside brake pad. In this case, the dragging piston may not be obvious because the face of the pad is tipped, not parallel to the rotor, causing it to partially contact the rotor and masking the dragging until the pad wears in at an angle.

Complications can also occur when the brake system is not properly bled. The car won't stop or have a soft feel and will also mask the dragging caliper because it isn't compressing. Because of the internal parking brake components, rear calipers require additional specific bleeding procedure to remove all air.

The risk of not using the proper tool for the job can result in the need to borrow or purchase the proper tool, purchase a costly rebuilt caliper, hope that they accept the your damaged core, purchase another pair of rear brake pads and new brake fluid. This doesn't include the lost time and additional frustration. I realize that there are short cuts, learn from my mistakes, that's what I believe this forum is about so others can avoid them. I would not recommend taking chances on brakes, since after the motor moves the car, brakes are its most important feature.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=298604_0_0_

 

Changed my rotors this morning and did a little cleaning.

 

thank you for the great write up. i do have one question though. how does the disconnecting of the battery affect the memory of the air suspension systems well as the rest of the computers' settings. i was told that if the battery was disconnected (as in replacing it) the shop needed to use a source of power to retain the settings, otherwise it would need a trip to the dealer to reset. am i missing something here?

 

Regarding disconnecting the battery as described above, there is a sequence to follow, so that the trunk is open, the air ride is disabled for jacking and the electric parking brake is released. This is a simple way to allow you to service the brakes. I have seen other methods which fuses are removed to disable certain features.

When reconnecting the battery and starting the car, I have not experienced any problems with any systems. The vehicle may reset to default settings stored in ROM or may even retain certain settings. As you drive vehicles re-learn for optimum performance. The parking brake reset procedure should be followed after the battery is reconnected.

The short answer is no, I just finished everything described in my procedure, cleaned up, started the car, it leveled itself, I checked the brakes and took a test drive. Never been back to the dealer. Obviously the clock must be the reset, and maybe radio stations and seat memory settings. This is a beautiful car,I enjoy driving it and the ceramic brakepads enhance the looks, since they don't generate that unsightly brake dust on the wheels.

 

Nice job on the brake replacement post. Thank you. Very easy to understand and follow.
Whenever I do disc brakes I usuallu put a hose on the bleed nipple and open it before I retract the caliper pistons. This allows the old (nasty) brake fluid to be expelled out of the caliper instead of being pushed back up into the system. Then when done I use one of the brake fluids that is a different color so I can see when all the old stuff is flushed out. I usually flush the brake system on all my nice cars at least every 24 months. The colored fluid I get from Pelican Parts.
Thanks again for the write up. You did a nice job on it.
Chad

 

Great clear informative instructions..! The only thing missing is play by play photos. Hint hint hint..

Once again thanks!

 

Thanks for a great write up which somehow has been missed for FAQ.............I'll remedy that now.

As stated above, the only thing missing that would improve the post is a play by play with pics to go with the write up.

 

Great write up! I'll be doing my brakes soon and I'll try to get some pictures when I do it. My '04 XJR has the separate e-brake calipers. BTW, the e-brake/parking brake contributes zero wear. The wear is caused by the friction of the pads against the spinning rotors, and engaging the e-brake pad while the rotor is stopped doesn't generate any friction.

Also, I don't know about the newer XJ's, but my e-brake DOES NOT engage when I put it in park - it engages when I take the key out of the ignition. When I stop on my inclined driveway to get my mail I have to engage it manually.

 

I should have taken pictures, but now who knows how long until next time. I did do photo's for the oil change proceedure and in the future when I have some basic service problem, pictures will be includes. Happy motoring. The XJR brakes are different, so if I get one, I'll do another.

 

excellent, thanks, is the xjrs same procedures