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What about the Oil Cooler ? Not too expensive should it be changed or it does it rarely fail ?
The failure seems to be the gasket for the cooler. It's a big gasket. Worth changing that gasket at the minimum, and the little pipe that connects it to the water pump with its 2 orings.
The failure seems to be the gasket for the cooler. It's a big gasket. Worth changing that gasket at the minimum, and the little pipe that connects it to the water pump with its 2 orings.
You mean this pipe here looks like it only has one o ring
Never mind I see there is another pipe that connects to the oil cooler which then connects to this other pipe that connects to the water pump
Where can I find these o rings?
Last edited by JaguarXJL15; 04-02-2024 at 03:26 PM.
Apologies for my delay, I think my grammar was poor there. I meant if you don't fix your coolant system with the metal pipes, well then you could lose your shirt...
BTW- I still can't get over your pair of cars... My goodness ! I mean the best year of the X351 and an e type.
I'd be interested have you ever driven any of the CL coupes by MB? In particular the C140 or C215. My Uncle had a couple of E types and a D type and a C type... many moons ago, before these things sky rocketed in price. I could say more; what a collection. Suffice to say I remember being a small boy and lying on (was it?) the flat rear shelf of the e type... PM if interested to hear more...
Gotta love the Chinese descriptions too!
"Forged" cooling parts? I don't think so it's obviously an Aluminum casting (I hope it's not some kind of pot metal?) which is all that is required.
Now do be careful and inspect it completely BEFORE installing it? We have had at least one guy who found it completely blocked with metal from the manufacturing process. Nothing wrong with the part but he had to clean it up before use. Also split the tube and inspect the gasket. Again not great QC but the basic part is good.
ALL DI engines are noisy. They are now using the same technology as Diesels have used for decades (Direct Injection) and not surprisingly they sound a lot like a Diesel!
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Looks like a solid part
Are you sure about splitting the tube? looks like some gasket residue on the outside
Up to you but with what I have seen it's only a small amount of work to open it up and check before resealing it.
WAY better than installing it and then finding out it has problems.
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The snout kit did not come with the coupler included? and oil? Why did you change the snout and not just the coupler?
There’s a Jaguar reference out there for replacing the coupler with a 120* rotation on the snout shaft in order to not wear the shaft in the same spot.
However, I also read that you might as well replace the snout since it’s not that expensive and the shaft wear could be excessive. As it was, I thought the wear was significant, and I planned a replacement with an aftermarket snout.
Hindsight, if the few hundred dollars is not handy for the snout, it’s likely not necessary with the solid coupler not wearing the shaft in the same way.
griff831 thanks for the added bit of info that I have not seen before? But I am not sure about installing the coupler 120 degrees from the previous position? Just move it around the 3 drive pins? I guess if you marked how it came off you could move it to the next drive pin? Otherwise you would not know where it was to start with?
I have seen the snout shaft with grooves worn in it from the coupler so that is a real concern with just replacing the coupler. But I have not seen that shaft wear causes any other problems?
Mine has been clunking for many miles and I have a complete Jaguar snout assembly to replace it and I am still going back and forth about using the solid coupler.
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What tool did you used to open the metal fuel line the end that's going to the supercharger looks like its hard to get a normal wrench in there
I think a standard wrench on the exposed fuel line on the front left looking at the engine. For the one recessed on the right side, I may have used a narrow set of channel lock pliers I bought for the job. It definitely comes out and needs a rag to dry up the spilled fuel.
Then a 1mm bead of silicone sealant is applied as shown and the snout replaced and bolts torqued to 27Nm. If, like me, you find it very hard to get a neat 1mm bead be sure to wipe away the excess sealant inside the join while still soft.
griff831 thanks for the added bit of info that I have not seen before? But I am not sure about installing the coupler 120 degrees from the previous position?
Mine has been clunking for many miles and I have a complete Jaguar snout assembly to replace it and I am still going back and forth about using the solid coupler..
clubairth1, sorry for a late reply, I have had no issues in 9 months and ~9k miles with the solid coupler. I lost recommend going with the item I ordered and not a cheaper equivalent.
The failure seems to be the gasket for the cooler. It's a big gasket. Worth changing that gasket at the minimum, and the little pipe that connects it to the water pump with its 2 orings.
The gasket for the oil cooler is metal. How does a metal gasket fail?
04-02-2024, 08:22 AM
