Hello! New to the Jaguar forum but already appreciative of all the knowledge sharing. I recently purchased a 2013 XJ with the supercharged 3.0L engine as a project car. The car will start, but then idle drops super low and it dies.

I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned MAF sensors, and checked air filters but no change to current symptoms.

Active codes are P2187 and P2189 for lean on both banks and misfire codes for basically every cylinder and multiple misfire code.

If I start it, it will run for maybe 1-2min then die and won’t start back up until the next day. Gray color smoke coming out of exhaust and what appears to be excessive fuel coming out of the driver side pipe when the engine is revved. Rather than a lean condition it seems to be over fueling to me.

Any ideas?

 

Sounds like when my car had a fuel injector fail open. Granted, I was also getting low fuel pressure codes too. Have you recently broken into the fuel system to do some work on the top of the engine? It is possible if this is the case that you got a little bit of dirt into the fuel system and this has blocked a fuel injector or two.

 

Thank you! I have not broken into the fuel system yet. It does sound like that but like you mentioned I would have expected a low fuel pressure code. Just now I received all of the dealer service emails from the previous owner and the last diagnosis what failed PCV and oil being burned with PCV and plug replacement being the start point. I think I’ll inspect and likely get new plugs and see how that goes since I’ve already replaced the PCV.

Also ordered a cheap smoke leak detector from Amazon that will be here this evening just to confirm there aren’t any vacuum leaks that I can’t visually find.

 

Okay…so I pulled the plugs on both the left and right side nearest the front of the engine. Both of them were very black from too much fuel so I cleaned them off, re-gapped, and started the car. After it idled and died as usual I pulled the passenger side plug and it was fouled again. Something is causing the car to send too much fuel.

For reference…I held the throttle down enough to get it to maintain 1500-2000rpm to see if anything changed once it was warmed up and nothing changed except for afterwards I have raw unburnt fuel all over the ground on the driver side and splatters on the passenger side 😬

Very thankful nothing caught on fire.

 

The stuck open injector fault is quite common failure, so start with these. These are quite cheap parts.
Note that if you run engine with stuck open fuel injector(s) you will dillute the engine oil with fuel rapidly. More fuel will end to the oil than in exhaust! This can end very badly, since oil lose its ability to lubricate and keep up the oil pressure. -> Seized bearing can lead possibility of rod trying to escape the situtation thru engine block. Change injector(s) as long as you still have running engine. (and change engine oil immediatly after you have added new injectors)

 

Thank you! I will order new injectors. Is there a resistance value each injector should read to determine if it’s stuck open or closed? Will replace all of them but would like to check each one against a known value if possible.

The one thing that is still puzzling me is how the car can throw a lean code for both banks but have fuel coming out of the exhaust. I am also going to inspect for exhaust leaks but if there are none then I would suspect the O2 sensors are also part of the problem and commanding more fuel than it needs.

 

Injectors work same principal as solenoid. As long as the coil is Ok you can measure resistance reading. However, stuck injector is not detected by the coil measurement, because its mechanically jammed. When removed, if you can blow pressured air thru its stuck open.
https://www.autoexpose.org/2018/11/f...r-working.html
Never seen faulty O2 sensor sending so wrong measurement that exhaust is flooded. I think most ECU have max trim level for fuel mixture, what ever reading it receives from O2 sensors?
Maybe the O2 sensors are so soaked that they and give false reading? (might be good idea to replace the too?)

 

My thought and this is only based on how I understand that the O2 sensor works is that 2 things are causing the O2 sensor to read wrong. The more likely situation is that because the cylinder is not firing due to a contaminated plug, lots of oxygen is going through the cylinder(s) with fuel and simply not getting burnt. This would cause the sensor to see a lot of oxygen and the car assumes that there is no fuel and therefore would be a "lean" condition. Keep in mind that the O2 sensor sees oxygen by the fact that oxygen "cools" the O2 sensor more than straight exhaust. In this case, the second cause would be simply that you have fuel reaching the O2 sensor and it going from a liquid to a gaseous state would cause excessive cooling of the O2 sensor, leading to it thinking it is seeing oxygen.

 

That's what I was wondering the entire thread. Also, why didn't you try to clean them first? Injectors can be expensive and cleaning them is kind of easy with the right equipment. It's doesn't have to be the expensive heated thing either. I use a different one, but this is basically the same thing and can do wonders.

Fuel Injector Tester Cleaner Tool Kit 8 Pulse Modes Injector Tester 2 Fuel Injector Test Simultaneously DIY Cleaning Tools with 40in Power Cord,4 Injector Cleaner Adapters,Short Circuit Protection 12V https://a.co/d/iRUjq83

Or honestly, as expensive as injectors can be, something like this would pay for itself and then some in no time.

Fuel Injector Cleaner Tester CT160 Heated Injection Systems Cleaners 4-Cylinder Petrol Injection Nozzle Cleaner Tester With Atomization Observation,Iniection Volume Detection,Tightness Test 110V/220V https://a.co/d/8cympoO


Edit: The last link I can't really recommend specifically was just using as an example. Looks like it has some bad reviews.

 

Thanks y’all - I ended up dropping a valve seat and having to pull the head on my truck so delayed at working on this car, but I went ahead and ordered new injectors, plugs, and some used OEM O2 sensors from eBay for cheap. Hopefully everything will arrive next week and I can update once it’s all replaced.

Are there any good how to videos or posts on removing the injectors? I bought a slide hammer off of Amazon but any tips to access things will be much appreciated!

 

I think the first is more likely with the unburnt oxygen. The latter less likely because the lower temperature would signal a rich condition vs. the leaner condition resulting in a higher temperature.

 

Okay so I finally got back to the car to work on it. Replaced all 6 injectors with new Bosch units, replaced the plugs with OEM iridium plugs, and put all 6 new (used from eBay) O2 sensors on.

For anyone else removing the injectors, the tool works just fine from Amazon or online. Don’t lose/drop the injector retaining clips because you have to take the whole underside of the car apart just to get to anything lol. Definitely have to remove the sound insulation at the firewall by disconnecting the main electrical harness, removing the cowl, and all that. Once that’s gone it’s not hard to get to everything and get the injector tool in there to work and all of mine came out in less than 2min once I got the tool seated properly.

As for the 02 sensors, you can get an open end wrench on most of them except for position 1 of banks 1 and 2 at the exhaust manifold. The passenger side position 1 sensor took me two days and multiple tool purchases to get out. Finally got a good impact crow’s foot, impact swivel adapter (not a universal), and some 1/2 extensions and came in from the top with an impact gun and got it. Problem is getting it to hold onto the sensor from that angle. That was my last attempt or I was about to reach through the engine and fender and weld the crow’s foot onto the sensor lol!

Only forgot to plug one sensor in upon start up and got that connected. All the original engine temp codes are gone for misfire and lean condition and the CEL disappeared after a few starts.

Remaining issues:

1 - have a TPMS fault
2 - have electrical charging system fault

Going to get new batteries and change the oil this weekend and will see where we end up, but thanks to everyone for your help! I think it was a combination of all three things - but no codes for O2 sensors or injectors for anyone else experiencing a similar issue.

 

One suggestion I post often is if your working on injectors get an extra set of parts. These kits are under $20 and have a full set of the above clips, Teflon Seals, O-Rings.




Because it's way too easy to lose or damage one or more of these and you don't want something so small to shut down your repair.
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Well…bad news. Took the car to fill up with fuel only a mile or so away and on the drive home the car died suddenly and triggered a P0256 code for Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control B (cam/rotor/injector). Won’t fire at all…so getting it towed now. Any ideas on this? Will have to do some research tonight.

 

Well that's a code for a Diesel engine? You have the 3.0L SC gas engine? Any chance you might have miss read the code number?
Maybe erase it and see what comes back?

Any other codes?
Where and how much did you pay for the injectors and plugs? I ask because I "think" I installed counterfeit parts on my car as I got all 8 Bosch injectors for $300 and Jaguar wants about $100 per injector. I had similar but not exactly the same symptoms. I finally sent my OEM injectors out to be cleaned and flow balanced before I re-installed them.

When the car was running did you see any white smoke coming out the tail pipes?
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Yes that confused me as well since it’s a diesel engine code…I have the 3.0L V6 supercharged engine. Injectors were OEM Bosch through RockAuto. I cleared the code and there weren’t any other codes at that time.

Although the car wouldn’t start last night and needed a tow, it started up fine this morning first try but a weird thing happened where the engine self-revved up to 2500rpm and then finally calmed back down to idle.

After it hit proper idle rpm I tried to monitor some of the parameters with my scanner and I see rail pressure variability between 493-623psi and a little variation in rpm +/- 75rpm. I can also hear a hissing sound from the top side of the supercharger on the passenger side of the engine. Not sure if there is supposed to be a normal sound there or not but wondering if I have another vacuum leak somewhere in that area.

Where my mind is now:

1- possible vacuum leak
2- possible clogged main fuel filter at in-tank pump
3- possible failing high pressure pump(s)

 

Only other thing I have for faults that I forgot to mention is a charging system fault. I don’t think a low battery would cause all of these issues though, and I charged it and see consistent voltage from the alternator when it’s running with no variation.

 

Don't discount the havoc a low battery can cause in these cars!
We have seen absolute disasters get cured by installing a new battery. I can't explain it but the evidence is immense.

How old is your battery? Battery voltage when the car is running does not tell you a lot. Get a nice static battery voltage after the car has been sitting all night.

Fuel filter is another odd thing? Yes it's in the tank and yes you can purchase them separately BUT Jaguar claims it's a lifetime filter and does not need servicing! I have one on my bench because I just don't believe any filter can be lifetime! I have not installed it yet.

It helps to post the actual code number too. Yes the fuel pressure is too low so do follow up on that. As you know the car has 3 fuel pumps. Low pressure in the tank and two gear driven high pressure pumps. Now surprisingly Rock Auto carries these gear driven pumps and the prices are in the $150 range which is a good bit cheaper than I thought they would be?

But the car should be throwing fuel pressure errors if it is low?
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I was going to replace the batteries anyways so will do that before I do anything more with fuel pumps and all that. Good to know that can cause a lot of issues! I can only hope for it to be that simple lol.

Regarding seeing a low fuel pressure code yes that would be likely, but since my code was related to fuel pump metering control I don’t want to rule out restriction to the pump or performance of the pump. I do agree low fuel pressure should throw a code based on what I see in the wiring diagram but we will see! Will update everyone once I get new batteries in there later this week.

 

Anyone have a good picture or video showing where the two high pressure pumps are located? I can trace the lines and figure it out if not.