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A/C is not working on our 2013 XJ V6 3.0 GAS. It is 80 deg outside and the fan runs inside and blows hot air. I have turned it off and on multiple times and still has hot air. Checked all the belts and they are looking ok. The wife stated that when she got in the car it seemed ok, then just blew hot air while driving home. She reached to adjust the back seat A/C unit and felt cool air for a short period then just hot air. Checked all the fuses today and they were fine. No loud grinding or knocking noise from the A/C Compressor as it does turn on when enabled.
First step with any A/C diagnosis is to put a set of gauges on high and low side ports. Gauges are not expensive to buy (Harbor Freight are just fine) or free to borrow from the parts store, and tons of YouTube videos explaining exactly how to hook them up and how to interpret the readings.
When you first start the car. Switch on the AC, open the hood and check if the engine fan is running. It should run at least on a low speed anytime the AC is on.
I second lotusespritse suggestion as it's the only way to diagnosis AC systems.
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My 2015 XJL uses 1234YF air conditioning refrigerant. Don't know what the 2013 uses. I think this refrigerant requires a specific set of gages. I lose about a half can of 1234YF per year and simply add that amount to see if the air-conditioning improves, which it does.
Great suggestions so far, but I think they may be jumping the gun a little bit, assuming your level of mechanical ability and confidence. That would be the first question. How skilled/confident are you with cars (do you do your own work, mostly), or are you looking for a "quick"/easy fix?
There are really only 2 main problems this could be. 1.) Low refrigerant, from a variety of causes, but low refrigerant nonetheless 2.) Poor performing or not working AC compressor. The second is the easiest test. Locate it on your accessory belt circuit with the AC off. Then have someone turn the AC on. The clutch on the distal side of the compressor click, move inward slightly, and start spinning also. Failure of this component can either have major symptoms (screeching belt, etc.) or hardly any symptoms other than non-cooling AC. If this engagement doesn't work, then compressor is bad. Not sure on Jaguars, this model specifically, etc. but sometimes the clutch component only can be replaced, making for a much cheaper repair. If the clutch engages and spins, then the culprit is almost assuredly low refrigerant. This can be caused by a tiny leak or a big one.
Gauge sets are cheap from Harbor Freight, as mentioned above, but it is imperative that one understands the affects of ambient temperature on the readings. It's simple overall, but requires some level of understanding. Side note, I am not usually a fan of silver cars, but yours looks really nice in that color!
There may not be a clutch on the AC compressor of this car. Compressor may be controlled by an electronic pressure control valve. So it could be this valve or low gas pressure. Search is your friend.
Last edited by Six Rotors; 03-05-2024 at 07:36 AM.
No listen to Six Rotors. These cars use a DPS which is troublesome and causes poor cooling usually under high heat conditions. I just replace the DPS valve in my car and I am still not sure if it's fixed. Plus I have attached the TSB concerning failing DPS valves. Now be careful because Jaguar has some bad part numbers out there and I purchased the wrong DPS valve the first time.
So what I recommend after all my research and work is plan to replace the compressor. The cost of the DPS and the labor to replace it is almost the same as replacing the entire compressor. Plus the compressor comes with a warranty and the DPS does not. You will also eliminate my error of ordering the wrong DPS valve as the compressors all come with the correct DPS valve.
The DPS can be bench tested as it's just a 12 VDC solenoid valve that opens and closes as instructed by the ECM. So applying 12 VDC will make the DPS click if it's working. You can also blow thru the valve and operate it to see if it is opening and closing.
Note cars around this time frame can have several different AC setups and I can't figure out Jaguar's rhyme or reason?
First determine if your car uses R134a or the newer 1234Y. Should have a sticker under the hood somewhere telling you that. Next your compressor may be the old fashion kind with the magnetic clutch. BUT since we have a DPS valve the compressor stays on 100% of the time and the refrigerant is metered by the DPS depending on what the system is calling for. The compressor no longer kicks in and out. It applies the clutch when the AC is turned on and stays engaged until the AC is turned off.
Your car also can have what's known a shear pulley compressor. This is somewhat new and the compressor has no magnetic clutch and is permanently turning. The problem with this setup is if the compressor locks up your belt stops turning you will now burn it up and the car has broken down. So what they did was use a shear key inside the AC compressor. Now when the compressor locks up the shear key is broken and just the front pulley on the AC compressor still turns. So no break down and the car can be driven as far as needed with no problems other than no AC!
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No listen to Six Rotors. These cars use a DPS which is troublesome and causes poor cooling usually under high heat conditions. I just replace the DPS valve in my car and I am still not sure if it's fixed. Plus I have attached the TSB concerning failing DPS valves. Now be careful because Jaguar has some bad part numbers out there and I purchased the wrong DPS valve the first time.
So what I recommend after all my research and work is plan to replace the compressor. The cost of the DPS and the labor to replace it is almost the same as replacing the entire compressor. Plus the compressor comes with a warranty and the DPS does not. You will also eliminate my error of ordering the wrong DPS valve as the compressors all come with the correct DPS valve.
The DPS can be bench tested as it's just a 12 VDC solenoid valve that opens and closes as instructed by the ECM. So applying 12 VDC will make the DPS click if it's working. You can also blow thru the valve and operate it to see if it is opening and closing.
Note cars around this time frame can have several different AC setups and I can't figure out Jaguar's rhyme or reason?
First determine if your car uses R134a or the newer 1234Y. Should have a sticker under the hood somewhere telling you that. Next your compressor may be the old fashion kind with the magnetic clutch. BUT since we have a DPS valve the compressor stays on 100% of the time and the refrigerant is metered by the DPS depending on what the system is calling for. The compressor no longer kicks in and out. It applies the clutch when the AC is turned on and stays engaged until the AC is turned off.
Your car also can have what's known a shear pulley compressor. This is somewhat new and the compressor has no magnetic clutch and is permanently turning. The problem with this setup is if the compressor locks up your belt stops turning you will now burn it up and the car has broken down. So what they did was use a shear key inside the AC compressor. Now when the compressor locks up the shear key is broken and just the front pulley on the AC compressor still turns. So no break down and the car can be driven as far as needed with no problems other than no AC!
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Great advice, took the car back today to have them look at it. Might hear in a day or 2, will post the results....
Mine (2012 XJL 5.0 SC) was behaving in a similar manner. It happened rather suddenly and I took it in and they diagnosed that the condenser fan had failed. Jag wants $2200 for it, but is available aftermarket for $849, plus 3 hrs of labor. It took them 5 days to receive the part. The part is now in, but still no cool air. I fear this a/c shop may be in over their heads on this one because they suspect the PCU. Not sure where that idea came from, but here we are. I'll definitely have the original condenser fan tested once the next issue is found. No need to replace it if that doesn't fix it and that wasn't the issue.
The DPS failure always happens suddenly. But did the shop even put gauges on the car? This problem has a very unique failure mode and one I have never seen in an AC system?
The pressure will be too low on the high side and too high on the low side. Remember there is nothing wrong with the AC system it's just being controlled improperly because of the bad DSP valve. Did the shop give you any pressure readings? If not see if you can get some numbers.
The condenser fan is the engine cooling fan. As I posted above start your car when the engine is cold. Turn on the AC. Now check that the engine fan is running on low. If not please download the TSB I posted above and take it to your mechanic. I have seen that the AC will sometimes start working again when the engine temperature comes up as that will also kick the cooling fan on. This problem is more severe if it's hot out.
I have no Idea what a PCU is?? I am afraid you wasted your money replacing the condenser? As I have posted multiple time please consider changing the entire AC compressor and do NOT screw around with the DPS unless your car is under warranty and the dealer insists. The amount of labor is the same and if your paying somebody you don't want to do this repair again. Removing the AC compressor on an X351 XJ is no fun!
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Well, the actual part I ordered online over the phone turned out to be the wrong A/C unit, had the mechanic order one that fit and it took care of the issue and runs great now. $1200 well spent all and all considering summer is right around the bend....
Well, the actual part I ordered online over the phone turned out to be the wrong A/C unit, had the mechanic order one that fit and it took care of the issue and runs great now. $1200 well spent all and all considering summer is right around the bend....
it was this one: 12013 Jaguar XJ A/C Compressor Brand Action Crash SKU ACP013358 from partsgeek
A SKU is not a part number, and I never heard of "Action Crash". That sounds more like a salvage yard business.
I think they're asking what the actual part number is, as in is it a PXC16, a PXE16, a PXV16...
Here is the tag from my 2014 XJR and it's also a PCX16 model from Sanden. Kinda looks like an 8? But I don't find any PCX18 models so it's just somewhat hard to read.