2016 LED headlamp retrofit to earlier cars (with full functionality)
#241
05-07-2020, 08:26 AM
Please help me out xdave.. i connected an adapter harness cable to both the headlight and my headlights started working but for the drl there was an acc wire in the harness which had to be connected to the fuse box.. i connected it to the ignition switch, it started working but after a few miles of driving my ac fan started goong off randomly and enginer started overheating.. what is happening ?
Retrofitting 2016 headlamps to an earlier model X351 Jaguar XJ - YouTube
A few of us have now retrofitted the LED headlamps which are an option from the 2016 MY to the earlier X351s. AFAIK all to date have been with the AFS function, but it is possible to retrofit the AFS-less LED lamps to AFS-less bixenon cars too. It may be possible to add AFS at the same time, but I am unsure if the required module is present on those cars.
The retrofit is fairly straightforward with a couple of wiring harness changes to the car which can be done as an add-in harness, and a few relays and power diodes added. With a normal install every function will work except for the static cornering LEDs (for AFS-equipped cars, those are the ones which light up when you turn into junctions at low speed).
It may be helpful to give a brief description of the way the static cornering LEDs work. They are not on-off, they are faded (via PWM) to avoid flashing. The 2010-2015 cars use a PWM signal from the central junction box to control this, but on the 2016 cars as they have integrated PWM LED drivers the cars were modified to send a network command to turn the lamps on and off, which is then handled entirely within the headlamp units.
To mimic this on an earlier car would not be possible without injecting the new messages with some hardware and a small automotive-grade MCU, but that is unnecessary. To get the static cornering LEDs to work you can just open the headlamp units and perform a bit of simple rewiring to have it plug-and-play compatible with the 2010 cars. I say "just" - it is not an easy process by any means, but it is possible.
While you have the units open it makes sense to adjust the connector pins to adopt the earlier pin positions where possible as that reduces the amount of wiring changes you need to make to the vehicle and allows you to keep them 95% plug-and-play compatible, with only minimal wiring changes needed per unit and no external relays.
Pin outs
I will cover the changes later on, but for reference here are the connector pin positions at the LH headlamp (RH is similar). JNC means the central junction box (fuse box), JNE means the engine fuse box, and where mentioned they include the connector/pin and fuse for that circuit.
2010
1 Side Marker LED GND
2 Side Marker LED + (>1) JNC D/12 F25/5 LH Position Lamps
3 Indicator LED + (>12)
4 Static Bending Lamp LED + (16) JNC D/4 Cornering Light LH
5 Level Motor + (>6) JNC D/19 F23/5 AFS Headlamp Levelling
6 Level Motor GND
7 Level Motor Control Signal
8 nc
9 Xenon DIP Beam GND
10 Main Beam Flap (>12) JNC D/28 Main Beam LH
11 Xenon DIP Beam + (>9) JNC D/38 DIP Beam LH
12 Indicator LED + Main Beam Flap GND
13 AFS Motor Control Signal
14 AFS Motor + (>15) JNC D/40 F50/5 LH Headlamp Motor
15 AFS Motor GND
16 Static Bending Lamp LED GND
2016
1 nc
2 nc
3 Indicator LED + (>12)
4 LB Command JNC D/38 O Dipped Beam Signal LH
5 Dynamic Levelling Motor IGN (>6) JNC D/19 F23/5
6 Dynamic Levelling Motor GND
7 Dynamic Levelling Motor DCM
8 SIG PWR JNC D/28 O Signal Power LED Driver LH
9 Lighting GND
10 HB Command (>10) JNC G/27 Mainbeam Shutter LH
11 Battery JNE D/3 F22/15 ??permanent??
12 Indicator LED + SIG GND
13 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor LIN
14 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor IGN (>15) JNC D/40 F50/5
15 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor GND
16 LED LIN Bus JNC E/3 LIN_5
The levelling motor is responsible for adjusting the headlamp throw (up/down) to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers. The AFS motor (dynamic bending lamp motor) is responsible for the left/right swivel of the dipped beam during cornering. Both of those are unchanged between model years and are plug-and-play compatible. Likewise the indicator position is unchanged (although you will need a relay as discussed later), and whilst the main beam operation uses a different lamp in the 2016 lamps the wiring car-side is the same with just another relay needed.
Everything else is different.
Side lamps (parking lamps) and side markers (US markets) are controlled by the internal LED driver based on LIN bus messages that are not present on earlier cars.
Static cornering lamps are controlled by the internal LED driver based on LIN bus messages that are not present on earlier cars.
The LED headlamps are provided with a permanent (unswitched) battery feed which allows the side lamps to work when the vehicle is off and locked. That is not present on earlier cars, but can be adapted from the parking lamp feed.
The dip beam activation has changed but can be replicated easily.
The vehicle indicators must be usable with the ignition off and the vehicle locked (as hazard lights). This requires some changes to allow the internal LED driver to be powered up when the hazard lights are on.
I will split the following steps into two methods –
The first will be if you want to retain all of the 2016 headlamp functionality as well as the option to switch back to the bixenon headlamps which requires opening up the new headlamps and is about 9/10 on the difficulty scale if you have not done it before.
The second will be if you don’t mind losing the static cornering lamps, in which case all the modifications can be made to the wiring behind the headlamps and is about 3/10 on the difficulty scale.
A few of us have now retrofitted the LED headlamps which are an option from the 2016 MY to the earlier X351s. AFAIK all to date have been with the AFS function, but it is possible to retrofit the AFS-less LED lamps to AFS-less bixenon cars too. It may be possible to add AFS at the same time, but I am unsure if the required module is present on those cars.
The retrofit is fairly straightforward with a couple of wiring harness changes to the car which can be done as an add-in harness, and a few relays and power diodes added. With a normal install every function will work except for the static cornering LEDs (for AFS-equipped cars, those are the ones which light up when you turn into junctions at low speed).
It may be helpful to give a brief description of the way the static cornering LEDs work. They are not on-off, they are faded (via PWM) to avoid flashing. The 2010-2015 cars use a PWM signal from the central junction box to control this, but on the 2016 cars as they have integrated PWM LED drivers the cars were modified to send a network command to turn the lamps on and off, which is then handled entirely within the headlamp units.
To mimic this on an earlier car would not be possible without injecting the new messages with some hardware and a small automotive-grade MCU, but that is unnecessary. To get the static cornering LEDs to work you can just open the headlamp units and perform a bit of simple rewiring to have it plug-and-play compatible with the 2010 cars. I say "just" - it is not an easy process by any means, but it is possible.
While you have the units open it makes sense to adjust the connector pins to adopt the earlier pin positions where possible as that reduces the amount of wiring changes you need to make to the vehicle and allows you to keep them 95% plug-and-play compatible, with only minimal wiring changes needed per unit and no external relays.
Pin outs
I will cover the changes later on, but for reference here are the connector pin positions at the LH headlamp (RH is similar). JNC means the central junction box (fuse box), JNE means the engine fuse box, and where mentioned they include the connector/pin and fuse for that circuit.
2010
1 Side Marker LED GND
2 Side Marker LED + (>1) JNC D/12 F25/5 LH Position Lamps
3 Indicator LED + (>12)
4 Static Bending Lamp LED + (16) JNC D/4 Cornering Light LH
5 Level Motor + (>6) JNC D/19 F23/5 AFS Headlamp Levelling
6 Level Motor GND
7 Level Motor Control Signal
8 nc
9 Xenon DIP Beam GND
10 Main Beam Flap (>12) JNC D/28 Main Beam LH
11 Xenon DIP Beam + (>9) JNC D/38 DIP Beam LH
12 Indicator LED + Main Beam Flap GND
13 AFS Motor Control Signal
14 AFS Motor + (>15) JNC D/40 F50/5 LH Headlamp Motor
15 AFS Motor GND
16 Static Bending Lamp LED GND
2016
1 nc
2 nc
3 Indicator LED + (>12)
4 LB Command JNC D/38 O Dipped Beam Signal LH
5 Dynamic Levelling Motor IGN (>6) JNC D/19 F23/5
6 Dynamic Levelling Motor GND
7 Dynamic Levelling Motor DCM
8 SIG PWR JNC D/28 O Signal Power LED Driver LH
9 Lighting GND
10 HB Command (>10) JNC G/27 Mainbeam Shutter LH
11 Battery JNE D/3 F22/15 ??permanent??
12 Indicator LED + SIG GND
13 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor LIN
14 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor IGN (>15) JNC D/40 F50/5
15 Dynamic Bending Lamp Motor GND
16 LED LIN Bus JNC E/3 LIN_5
The levelling motor is responsible for adjusting the headlamp throw (up/down) to avoid dazzling oncoming drivers. The AFS motor (dynamic bending lamp motor) is responsible for the left/right swivel of the dipped beam during cornering. Both of those are unchanged between model years and are plug-and-play compatible. Likewise the indicator position is unchanged (although you will need a relay as discussed later), and whilst the main beam operation uses a different lamp in the 2016 lamps the wiring car-side is the same with just another relay needed.
Everything else is different.
Side lamps (parking lamps) and side markers (US markets) are controlled by the internal LED driver based on LIN bus messages that are not present on earlier cars.
Static cornering lamps are controlled by the internal LED driver based on LIN bus messages that are not present on earlier cars.
The LED headlamps are provided with a permanent (unswitched) battery feed which allows the side lamps to work when the vehicle is off and locked. That is not present on earlier cars, but can be adapted from the parking lamp feed.
The dip beam activation has changed but can be replicated easily.
The vehicle indicators must be usable with the ignition off and the vehicle locked (as hazard lights). This requires some changes to allow the internal LED driver to be powered up when the hazard lights are on.
I will split the following steps into two methods –
The first will be if you want to retain all of the 2016 headlamp functionality as well as the option to switch back to the bixenon headlamps which requires opening up the new headlamps and is about 9/10 on the difficulty scale if you have not done it before.
The second will be if you don’t mind losing the static cornering lamps, in which case all the modifications can be made to the wiring behind the headlamps and is about 3/10 on the difficulty scale.
#242
05-07-2020, 08:58 AM
Please help me out xdave.. i connected an adapter harness cable to both the headlight and my headlights started working but for the drl there was an acc wire in the harness which had to be connected to the fuse box.. i connected it to the ignition switch, it started working but after a few miles of driving my ac fan started goong off randomly and enginer started overheating.. what is happening ?
I can confirm that the connections xDave has detailed in this thread do work. And the minor fault of the AFS lamp occasionally showing (probably as a result of a resistance mismatch in one of the wires), is shortly to be cured by swapping for a heavier gauge wire.
#243
05-07-2020, 10:29 AM
I'm sure xDave will be along soon to help you out but in the meantime I have a question - you say you have connected "an" adaptor harness? Because if you followed xDave's excellent instructions, there is no need to run a separate feed from the fuse box.
I can confirm that the connections xDave has detailed in this thread do work. And the minor fault of the AFS lamp occasionally showing (probably as a result of a resistance mismatch in one of the wires), is shortly to be cured by swapping for a heavier gauge wire.
I can confirm that the connections xDave has detailed in this thread do work. And the minor fault of the AFS lamp occasionally showing (probably as a result of a resistance mismatch in one of the wires), is shortly to be cured by swapping for a heavier gauge wire.
This wire in my hand was for the drl... i am not good with electricals. So i just purchased a adapter cable.. the plugs went between car and headlights and headlights worked fine except drl.. but after i put this acc wire in fuse box for drl.. ac fan started working intermittently.
#244
05-07-2020, 10:36 AM
#245
05-07-2020, 10:42 PM
The adapter cable works fine.. but ny headlights have become a secondary issue now.. how did it cause the ac fan to work intermittently.. i an unable to drive my car cause it is overheating.. and there is an adaptive dynamics fault on the screen.
#246
05-08-2020, 02:56 AM
Which fuse did you wire the live feed to the headlights through? Hopefully, you used a piggyback fuse connector. But have you checked that fuse?
The cooling matrix at the front of the engine incorporates the intercooler, the AC condenser and the engine cooling radiator all served by one fan which takes its signal from several sources. If the ac isn't working and the engine is overheating then it suggests a problem with the fan rather than anything else.
Without checking, I think the fan is powered through a relay. Try swapping it for another of the same rating in the fuse box.
Also, check the fuse you've wired the headlights through.
The cooling matrix at the front of the engine incorporates the intercooler, the AC condenser and the engine cooling radiator all served by one fan which takes its signal from several sources. If the ac isn't working and the engine is overheating then it suggests a problem with the fan rather than anything else.
Without checking, I think the fan is powered through a relay. Try swapping it for another of the same rating in the fuse box.
Also, check the fuse you've wired the headlights through.
#247
05-08-2020, 07:29 AM
I wired it to ignition fuse... and the cooling fan is workihg intermittently .. it hasnt stopped working completely.. so can a damaged relay cause that ? Because i think if the relay went bad the fan would not have worked atall... and if the motor went bad then also the fan would stop working completely.. but when its working its working fine.. but it goes off randomly. What do you think ?
Which fuse did you wire the live feed to the headlights through? Hopefully, you used a piggyback fuse connector. But have you checked that fuse?
The cooling matrix at the front of the engine incorporates the intercooler, the AC condenser and the engine cooling radiator all served by one fan which takes its signal from several sources. If the ac isn't working and the engine is overheating then it suggests a problem with the fan rather than anything else.
Without checking, I think the fan is powered through a relay. Try swapping it for another of the same rating in the fuse box.
Also, check the fuse you've wired the headlights through.
The cooling matrix at the front of the engine incorporates the intercooler, the AC condenser and the engine cooling radiator all served by one fan which takes its signal from several sources. If the ac isn't working and the engine is overheating then it suggests a problem with the fan rather than anything else.
Without checking, I think the fan is powered through a relay. Try swapping it for another of the same rating in the fuse box.
Also, check the fuse you've wired the headlights through.
#248
05-09-2020, 03:40 AM
I wired it to ignition fuse... and the cooling fan is workihg intermittently .. it hasnt stopped working completely.. so can a damaged relay cause that ? Because i think if the relay went bad the fan would not have worked atall... and if the motor went bad then also the fan would stop working completely.. but when its working its working fine.. but it goes off randomly. What do you think ?
#249
05-09-2020, 04:52 AM
Thankyou john.. i will try that.. but it does not seem like a big problem right ? Thats what im scared about.. because if the fan motor failed that will be too expensive to replace here.... and one thing more john.. when my drl turned on .. they seemed very dim... like it did not seem bright enough to be visible like other cars... my headlights are 100% genuine oem..
#250
05-09-2020, 10:38 AM
Thankyou john.. i will try that.. but it does not seem like a big problem right ? Thats what im scared about.. because if the fan motor failed that will be too expensive to replace here.... and one thing more john.. when my drl turned on .. they seemed very dim... like it did not seem bright enough to be visible like other cars... my headlights are 100% genuine oem..
#252
05-11-2020, 04:33 AM
I can and will send you his contact details. But be aware that until we have those anomalies resolved that I talk about in this thread (and with the easing of lock-down restrictions here that may happen this week), he won't do anything. I spoke with him last week and he mentioned that he has some potential customers from this forum, waiting.
#255
05-24-2020, 05:17 AM
Hi john... my headlights work fine now except the drl seem a bit dim compared to my mercedes a class.. and there is an adaptive dynamics fault on the screen.. will swapping rhe 4 fuses with 10A get rid of the fault ?
#256
05-29-2020, 06:58 AM
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Hello everyone. I hope someone will be able to help me. I have purchased EU Facelift LED headlights and sent them to Sam in UK for modification. After installation on my car 2015 XJL with AFS everything works great but the auto high beam assist. Also from a time to time the car will throw afs error which clears upon restart. I have contacted Sam multiple times but he has not been of any help. Anyone had same issue? Any ideas on where to look? I have no idea what exactly was modified inside the LED headlights but they connected to the stock harness and all functions (minus the above mentioned ones) are working fine.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#257
06-14-2020, 10:34 AM
Veteran Member
#258
06-29-2020, 06:37 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Delaware
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
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Hello everyone. I hope someone will be able to help me. I have purchased EU Facelift LED headlights and sent them to Sam in UK for modification. After installation on my car 2015 XJL with AFS everything works great but the auto high beam assist. Also from a time to time the car will throw afs error which clears upon restart. I have contacted Sam multiple times but he has not been of any help. Anyone had same issue? Any ideas on where to look? I have no idea what exactly was modified inside the LED headlights but they connected to the stock harness and all functions (minus the above mentioned ones) are working fine.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#259
06-29-2020, 08:48 AM
Anyway, we did fit them but I'm afraid they made no difference. Everything works except the occasional AFS warning after I've used the flash. And then only when the light stalk is set to off or auto. If the side lights or dipped-beam headlights are on, there's no issue. So I'm going to live it like that.
#260
06-29-2020, 08:53 AM
It would appear that the AFS warning is a common issue whichever way the LED headlights have been wired - plug-n-play after internal "adjustments" like yours or a rewired connection loom like mine.
But the auto high-beam assist certainly works with the way mine have been connected. I wonder if there's anyone else here who has gone the "plug-n-play" route who can comment.
But the auto high-beam assist certainly works with the way mine have been connected. I wonder if there's anyone else here who has gone the "plug-n-play" route who can comment.