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Well thanks for the report back anyway. I was hoping to clean up my sloppy install because your guy did a great job of packaging it!
But I have the same small issues and over the 2+ years I have had the mod it's a very small problem.
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I've finally decided to try and sort the glitch with the headlight upgrade. And hope that @xdave can throw some light on the issue. To recap, everything that should work (the static cornering lights never will) does work except when the lights are off (off on the stalk or off when in auto) and the stalk is pulled to flash the high beams, the lights flicker. Usually just the RH unit, sometimes both. But just occasionally, neither! This is then usually accompanied by the AFS fault light appearing on the dash.
Now, if the lights are on, headlights or just side lights, this doesn't happen. Flashes OK with no AFS light.
The guy who made up the connection looms is at a loss, unfortunately.
So, here's a short clip of this in action. (The slow flicker throughout is just how the video recording interacts with the LED pulsing.)
John, you've gone and built yourself a police car!
(I'm making the assumption that the wires in the adaptor harness are a suitable gauge to not increase the resistance, and the diode between position 14 on the old connector prior to any taps is suitably rated.)
I would probe position 8 at the rear of either headlamp with either a scope or multi-meter to see if the voltage drops when that flashing occurs. Also check the resistance to ground from position 9.
I wonder if the JNC/BCM is cutting the AFS motor power or some property of the mosfet is slightly different between our cars causing yours to briefly trip the overpower protection on that circuit. It won't do it when the dipped beams are on because there are multiple paths.
Position 11 at the new headlamp is the main LED driver power. It is normally connected to the battery voltage at all times, with its operation controlled over the LIN on position 16 that is lacking on the earlier cars. As a test, you could try removing pin 11 from the new connector and instead connecting the headlamp position 11 directly to battery voltage and then testing the functions. If that works, you can add a relay across either 14 to GND (1/9/16) at the car connector side, or use any other switched source in place of 14. If it is easier you can snip the wire and use a solder sleeve to repair it if it doesn't make any difference.
Dave, thanks for your reply. I understand most of it but I'm not confident enough to put any of your suggestions into action so will talk with Jez, the guy who made up the looms. He was very aware of the need to have the correct gauge wiring and in fact used a heavier wire on one or two of the connections than suggested by your instructions.
Update: This has taken a long time due to the social-distancing restrictions (and another extenuating circumstance) but I was with Jez last weekend and finally, we think we have the solution. The test worked perfectly and so I'll be with him again this weekend to do the final fit. I will post all details as soon as it's done. But in short, the headlights will now work as they should with no flickering or AFS fault light on the dash.
Hey that is GREAT news!
Thanks so much for reporting that. Any chance you could post a price for the harness?
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It's not me who will be selling them and of course, this first one has involved a lot of time and effort on Jez's part which I will be discussing with him. I'm sure when this is finally proven to work (should be this weekend) he will be willing to start quoting a price.
Is there a battery saver relay supply in the engine compartment fuse box, do i actually want the battery saver supply or do i need a permanent for the hazards to work properly. I have no afs.
Lights done, all working bang on, because i only have a poverty light i only had 7 wires so no AFS supply to feed things, so put my own in from the relevant fuses 49, 50, just could do with sorting the front indicators when locking the car, as they don't flash because the battery saver relay goes straight off when locking, if fires up quick enough when opening to allow the lights to flash, will look into that one.
Just need to find someone to activate the DAB and B&W amp i fitted along the way, anybody know anyone, preferably Yorkshire-ish way on, i have found a chap down south may just have to have a run out.
I know pics tomorrow, cannot find a long enough stick to poke switch with so have to wait for our lass tomorrow.
Edit - think i should be able to use a capacitor just to hold the power on a few secs whilst locking.
So I had to do some searching and I found someone on eBay who had the lights and the conversion harness. I didn’t want to take my car apart so I went to a local jag garage and for an extra $200 and 3 hrs of work all done. XJ x351 preheadlight facelift. XJ x351 post-headlight facelift.
Update: This has taken a long time due to the social-distancing restrictions (and another extenuating circumstance) but I was with Jez last weekend and finally, we think we have the solution. The test worked perfectly and so I'll be with him again this weekend to do the final fit. I will post all details as soon as it's done. But in short, the headlights will now work as they should with no flickering or AFS fault light on the dash.
Well, another long delay because during what was going to be the final fit . . . the car died!! No power to the dash. Nothing when pressing the start button. Car was recovered to my local Jag dealer.
Of course, I was stressing that it was something Jez and I had done. Diagnosis took a week (during which I was given a Range Rover Sport to use . . . . awful!!). And the answer . . . a broken wire behind the dash. Cost £4 (about $5) to repair. But all covered by the Jaguar extended warranty I took out earlier this year. Phew!!
So, back to the headlights; all now wired in and as mentioned in the previous post, flickering and AFS fault light cured.
"How did you do that, John?". Well, I'll tell you.
Part of xDaves' original description of the required wiring pointed out that pin #8 on the LED headlight is power to the main LED driver. His solution was to combine two power sources from the car-side, one being pin #14 which normally only powers the AFS motor and without any of the lights being powered on (save for the DRL), this was being heavily drawn on when the headlights were flashed. It seems the clever car systems saw an unusual current draw which somehow (we think by interacting with the pin #2 relay) caused the lights to flicker on and off rapidly. And throw up the AFS fault.
So we have routed a separate switched power supply from the engine junction box to pin #8.
Now, it just so happens that the car-side pin #8 isn't used for the HID headlights so we've been able to run the power into there, straight through the connection loom so it looks fine.
And one welcome side effect is that the switched feed we've used doesn't shut down until 15 seconds after the car is locked so the DRLs going off is also delayed. Cool.
The ones I bought from Sam in the U.K. Are not the us version. He did have a new set of US spec lights available for 100 more euros. But I did not want the orange reflectors so I went with the euro version.
Hi SRK, the guy's name is Sam. I contacted him on his mobile via Whatsapp all along. You can reach him on the following numbers: 07929373008 or 07879345666.
When I bought it, he told me that is the last pair available in the UK. You may try to ask him again.
Hope this helps.
hey is the headlights from sam plug and play? and how much in u.s. dollars and how long it took for you to receive them
So I had to do some searching and I found someone on eBay who had the lights and the conversion harness. I didn’t want to take my car apart so I went to a local jag garage and for an extra $200 and 3 hrs of work all done. XJ x351 preheadlight facelift. XJ x351 post-headlight facelift.
where did you buy your headlights? was it plug and play? and how much
06-29-2020, 12:16 PM
