2016 LED headlamp retrofit to earlier cars (with full functionality)
#122
After a very long road trip (5850 miles) found out a few more things?
ABrice;
I followed your suggestions and am now running 10A fuses in positions #49 and #50 in the rear fuse box. I used the flash to pass feature on the highway and immediately got the
Adaptive headlight error on the dash. Found both 5A fuses blown. Replaced with 7.5A fuses and same thing happened so I now have 10A fuses in #49 and #50 positions. Everything
has been working fine. Still get the error but no blown fuses if I start the car with the lights set to bright.
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ABrice;
I followed your suggestions and am now running 10A fuses in positions #49 and #50 in the rear fuse box. I used the flash to pass feature on the highway and immediately got the
Adaptive headlight error on the dash. Found both 5A fuses blown. Replaced with 7.5A fuses and same thing happened so I now have 10A fuses in #49 and #50 positions. Everything
has been working fine. Still get the error but no blown fuses if I start the car with the lights set to bright.
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#123
#124
I don’t think they did. I’m not 100% sure. You in a rush to get this done? Is there a timeline on this project? The parts will arrive in a reasonable timeframe. As I mentioned in an earlier post, you will have to assemble all of the parts to make the harness. It’s not physically hard, but its time consuming. It took me about a week just to figure how to put the harness together and maybe another week of actually doing it. That’s working a few hours daily after getting off work. Unless you already know what you’re doing and understand how to read the wiring schematic, it’s going to take a little time. Take your time and ensure that everything is assembled properly and wired correctly. You’ll also need some solder and a soldering gun. I didn’t purchase the wire from SIMTEK. I just picked the wire up at Autozone. Lastly, I picked up a labeling kit and labeled each wire according to the wiring diagram to help stay on track. It’s easy to get lost with wires going all over the place. I hope this helps brother.
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XJ8JR (12-11-2018)
#125
Well, I'll be damned...the Simtek connectors arrived yesterday! Delivery in less than a week! Now that I've got all the parts assembled, I can start on the harnesses tonight. I've never done anything like this before, but I've done a lot of research over the past week and I'm pretty confident.
#126
Well, I'll be damned...the Simtek connectors arrived yesterday! Delivery in less than a week! Now that I've got all the parts assembled, I can start on the harnesses tonight. I've never done anything like this before, but I've done a lot of research over the past week and I'm pretty confident.
#127
After a slow start, I was able to finish most of the first harness last night. But I have a really amateur question: in the blow-up below of the relay on the diagram, am I to assume that the line connecting Point C and Point NC needs an actual connection or is that just part of the diagram "design" of the relay, like the squiggly line? And if no physical connection is needed, do I just leave Point NC open (ie no electrical tape or some other sort of covering)?
Edit: After doing more research, I'm fairly certain that there needn't be a connection between the "common" and "normally closed".
Last edited by XJ8JR; 12-12-2018 at 08:43 PM.
#128
You are correct - the connection is internal to the relay. Just put a bit of heat shrink over the NC terminal to prevent it from touching anything.
Pro-tip: ensure you have a few inches extra on all your wires in case you make a mistake and need to re-terminate, and don't tape all your wires up into a harness until you've tested it as it makes it easier to trace the wires to check when you can see them all clearly.
Good luck, and don't forget you will need to change those two fuses in the central fuse box, and not to turn the ignition on with the full beam switch active to avoid AFS errors.
Pro-tip: ensure you have a few inches extra on all your wires in case you make a mistake and need to re-terminate, and don't tape all your wires up into a harness until you've tested it as it makes it easier to trace the wires to check when you can see them all clearly.
Good luck, and don't forget you will need to change those two fuses in the central fuse box, and not to turn the ignition on with the full beam switch active to avoid AFS errors.
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XJ8JR (12-13-2018)
#129
#130
Hi XDave,
I been wondering about this for a while. I purchased a set of the AFS led headlights from a shop in England about a year ago. They made already been modified to fit pre 2012 cars and were simply plug-n-play. All functions work, including the cornering lights, and have never had a warning light come on. My question is since the headlights do not appear to have been opened up, are all the required modifications done by rearranging the pins in the plug or is there something else involved.
I been wondering about this for a while. I purchased a set of the AFS led headlights from a shop in England about a year ago. They made already been modified to fit pre 2012 cars and were simply plug-n-play. All functions work, including the cornering lights, and have never had a warning light come on. My question is since the headlights do not appear to have been opened up, are all the required modifications done by rearranging the pins in the plug or is there something else involved.
#131
There is a seller on eBay who does the modifications by opening and resealing the lamps. I wasn't able to do that with mine (the plastic started to deform before the sealant would release) but others have had more luck than I did. If you have access to a paint curing oven it should be fairly easy to dial in the required temperature.
The AFS warning on ignition with the full beam switch set to on and auto is not guaranteed. I had it for a while, then it disappeared without further action from. I suspected it came from the LED drivers drawing just enough extra current to cause the AFS module to brownout just as the JNC was checking it was ok because despite the warning lamp the system still functioned correctly. That may be why I haven't seen it now the XJ has become my daily driver as the battery is always kept fully charged.
The AFS warning on ignition with the full beam switch set to on and auto is not guaranteed. I had it for a while, then it disappeared without further action from. I suspected it came from the LED drivers drawing just enough extra current to cause the AFS module to brownout just as the JNC was checking it was ok because despite the warning lamp the system still functioned correctly. That may be why I haven't seen it now the XJ has become my daily driver as the battery is always kept fully charged.
#132
Xji351
Hi xdave. In dispare.Wondering if You could help me. I had a bump and had to change the drivers headlight. I bought one but it is the 12 pin connector from the new headlight. My car harness and old headlight had a 16 pin and wire connector. I bought some rd connectors but the only ones i could find were for the range rover. This is a 12 to 16 connector harness. I plugged them as tbey came to see what worked and what did not. The main beam low beam works as normal. Afs doesnt and the indicator doesnt. Also the orange warning appears. Are you able to advise if I can move the pins to build the correct harness and what diagram I need to follow if you have one available. I have a 2009 xj351 and the new headlight must be 2010.
thanks in advance.
thanks in advance.
#133
Hi Manos,
AFAIK all X351 headlamps use the same 16 way connectors (albeit different pin combinations for the LED headlamps). Not all of the ways are populated with pins though.
Non-AFS vehicles also have less populated than AFS, but as far as I can tell without physically testing they should retrofit fine but the AFS obviously won't work.
I can't send you a PM as you are a new member with just 1 post. Can you ask a moderator if you can have PMs enabled so I can send you my email address? I'd like to see some photos of the headlamp you have bought, and the full VIN of your vehicle (but don't post the latter in a public forum).
(Alternatively if you can send a PM to me please send your email address and I'll reply with mine.)
AFAIK all X351 headlamps use the same 16 way connectors (albeit different pin combinations for the LED headlamps). Not all of the ways are populated with pins though.
Non-AFS vehicles also have less populated than AFS, but as far as I can tell without physically testing they should retrofit fine but the AFS obviously won't work.
I can't send you a PM as you are a new member with just 1 post. Can you ask a moderator if you can have PMs enabled so I can send you my email address? I'd like to see some photos of the headlamp you have bought, and the full VIN of your vehicle (but don't post the latter in a public forum).
(Alternatively if you can send a PM to me please send your email address and I'll reply with mine.)
#134
I finally finished my first harness last night and tested the lights. Man, the stock xenons look like old yellow halogens in comparison to the new LEDs. I can't attest to the throw distance and such during actual driving yet, but they are MUCH brighter in the garage.
Unfortunately, I ruined one of the relays while making the second harness, so I've got to wait until the replacement arrives on Monday. Otherwise this project would've been wrapped up over the weekend.
Unfortunately, I ruined one of the relays while making the second harness, so I've got to wait until the replacement arrives on Monday. Otherwise this project would've been wrapped up over the weekend.
#135
Hi xdave. I created a gmail just for this purpose as i can't pm and had no reply yet. Email is manosfoti@gmail.com
manosfoti at gmail. Com
Thanks.
manosfoti at gmail. Com
Thanks.
#136
Mission Accomplished! I finished the harnesses, replaced the fuses, installed the lights and everything works perfectly. I was surprised to discover there was velco flap behind the armrest which allowed access to the fuses without dismantling the seats so that made things much easier.
I don't know if my stock HIDs were worn down or what but the LEDs are a huge improvement. The beam is strong and very wide, and the perfect pure white color everyone is always striving for with HIDs. And the AFS system is much better as well; the lamps swiveling is much more noticeable and really does light up your intended direction.
The look and design of the assemblies themselves really take the front of the car up a few notches. The car looks much more upscale and even a little meaner with all the blacked-out interior bits.
My one complaint is that the J Blades by themselves don't seem to be too bright in the daylight. They're barely noticeable. They glow much brighter with the low beams on. I'm not sure if there's a problem or if that's just how they are, but I seem to recall others on the road appearing brighter.
Anyways, thanks again to XDave and everyone else on this thread.
I don't know if my stock HIDs were worn down or what but the LEDs are a huge improvement. The beam is strong and very wide, and the perfect pure white color everyone is always striving for with HIDs. And the AFS system is much better as well; the lamps swiveling is much more noticeable and really does light up your intended direction.
The look and design of the assemblies themselves really take the front of the car up a few notches. The car looks much more upscale and even a little meaner with all the blacked-out interior bits.
My one complaint is that the J Blades by themselves don't seem to be too bright in the daylight. They're barely noticeable. They glow much brighter with the low beams on. I'm not sure if there's a problem or if that's just how they are, but I seem to recall others on the road appearing brighter.
Anyways, thanks again to XDave and everyone else on this thread.
#137
Correct. This is one problem that has not been fixed yet. The J-Blades are too dim for DRL's. Not sure why but it takes having the headlights on to brighten them up.
I have the same issue and am hoping a solution is found in the future!
Not a big deal and I think if we can ever solve how to bake the head lights open that conversion method will be the best way to go.
For now I am living with it as the positives outweigh this small downside.
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I have the same issue and am hoping a solution is found in the future!
Not a big deal and I think if we can ever solve how to bake the head lights open that conversion method will be the best way to go.
For now I am living with it as the positives outweigh this small downside.
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.
.
#138
#140
I'm guessing those with dimmer J blades are not as shown in my video in the first post in this thread?
Looking for a common factor here -
1) If you have dim J blades are you using the adapter harness approach rather than modifying the lamps themselves?
2) If you have dim J blades are you using US-spec lamps (with the orange outer corner reflectors) or ROW spec (clear reflectors)?
Looking for a common factor here -
1) If you have dim J blades are you using the adapter harness approach rather than modifying the lamps themselves?
2) If you have dim J blades are you using US-spec lamps (with the orange outer corner reflectors) or ROW spec (clear reflectors)?