2016 XJL Headlight Retrofit?
#43
Wire pin swap!!
Hello everyone, my name is Franck from New York, i am currently working on getting my 2014 XJL s/c to fit this new headlights!! I am working with an electrician (not a pro one but he sorta know what he's doing). We are going through prep details, whats needed and so on..., I am taking notes on the steps and pictures as well so i can share with everyone here.
We are almost ready to do the installation, but can't quite figure out how to actually pull out the pins to swap for the correct position. Does anyone know if that special tool to push it out? Or does the wires needs to be cut and weld with the correct position?? Soon as we figure that out we can proceed with the real work and hopefully to see everything works properly.
Thanks
We are almost ready to do the installation, but can't quite figure out how to actually pull out the pins to swap for the correct position. Does anyone know if that special tool to push it out? Or does the wires needs to be cut and weld with the correct position?? Soon as we figure that out we can proceed with the real work and hopefully to see everything works properly.
Thanks
#45
The headlamp connectors are JLR part no. YPC800820. I believe the photo below shows the same part from a LR.
I believe the harness-side is the one on the left. They are field servicable connectors and if you look closely at the grey plastic retainer you will see two small square holes veritcally central just above the 10 and 13 pin positions. Place a small pick or some fine nosed pliers into those holes and pull the grey plastic retainer away from the connector. It will remain clipped in place, but should come forward about 5mm which then allows you to simply pull the pins out from the rear of the connector housing by firmly tugging on the wire.
(Note that it has already been pulled forward in that photo and no pins are present.)
I've not worked on that exact connector before so it is possible there is a tang that needs to be indented on the pins, but usually with that kind of retainer they don't have them. If needed you can pull the grey part out completely by squeezing it at the sides to remove. You can just make out on of the clips in the photo at the 3 o'clock position.
Inserting is as simple as as replacing the pins and pushing back the retainer.
Note that some of the pins will have a larger CSA cable than the others as they carry significant amount of current. Ensure that those positions are aligned correctly across the connector of you can melt a cable and start a fire. I gave the position break downs for a 2010 and a 2016 MY car in a previous post, but I've attached a PDF copy of the connector chart for a 2014 car to this post in case there were any changes. Even if not it may be handy for your electrician.
#47
Couldn't wait for the weekend.
Hello, so I saw another electrician witch is very good!! this swap is very complicated than it sounds, the lights works except the ''cornering light'', no error on my dash (yet at least)
The process was a lot more than just pin swap!! the electrician had to cut some wires, had to put 2 relays each side and 1 load resistor each side. (Probably because here in the US its different, I was told that in europe they come wired with DRL lights)
I will do more test tomorrow and will post pics. Anyone interested in this mode in the New York area I can recommend a place, if you're else where, go see an electrician.
The process was a lot more than just pin swap!! the electrician had to cut some wires, had to put 2 relays each side and 1 load resistor each side. (Probably because here in the US its different, I was told that in europe they come wired with DRL lights)
I will do more test tomorrow and will post pics. Anyone interested in this mode in the New York area I can recommend a place, if you're else where, go see an electrician.
The following users liked this post:
alexis moreira (11-20-2019)
#49
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Reynolds Lake Oconee, GA USA
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All North American XJs are delivered with DLR, but in the USA it is, by default, turned off. If you have access to an SDD Tool DLR can be turned on. The reason it is not on by default in the USA is in the pre 2016 XJ it turned on both the signature lights and low beam headlights. and most owners did not want their headlights on and the signature lights were not bright enough to qualify solely as DLRs by USA regulations.
#51
#54
Update!!
Sorry i got so busy with work!! So as I mentioned, my upgrade 2014 to 2016 headlights was a success, the only light that is not working is the "cornering light", everything else checks out really good, even my AFS is working properly, no error of any kind, the beam looks dead on target so i think its positioned properly.
As for the steps involved few things but complicated, I certainly recommend a good electrician. Here are the the main things that need to happen.
-Take off bumper
-Take out the headlights
-Pin swap the wires (i dont know witch one goes where but your electrician should know)
-Add relays (mine has 4 additional relays added (1 main relay, and 3 other in the fuse box) so wire cutting is a must.
-Add 1 load resistor per headlight (I believe this is for the DRL wire)
-Plug in your new headlights for final test, and put everything back on place.
Will post pics later, having trouble doing it on my phone
As for the steps involved few things but complicated, I certainly recommend a good electrician. Here are the the main things that need to happen.
-Take off bumper
-Take out the headlights
-Pin swap the wires (i dont know witch one goes where but your electrician should know)
-Add relays (mine has 4 additional relays added (1 main relay, and 3 other in the fuse box) so wire cutting is a must.
-Add 1 load resistor per headlight (I believe this is for the DRL wire)
-Plug in your new headlights for final test, and put everything back on place.
Will post pics later, having trouble doing it on my phone
#57
Sorry for delay, very busy with work.
here are my 2 cats, 2012 on the right, and 2014 S/C with the headlight upgrade. Fitment is perfect, headlight leveling and everything works, except the cornering lights.
Here are the extra photos for the wiring inside and the extra relays added. I don't really know much about the wiring set up but this is the final result.
Here are the extra photos for the wiring inside and the extra relays added. I don't really know much about the wiring set up but this is the final result.
The following 2 users liked this post by Franck Fabien:
alexis moreira (11-20-2019),
Panthro (05-21-2016)
#60
Hi,
I don't know of a video, however the workshop PDF manual pages attached to the bottom of this other post contain step by step diagrams.
Having removed the bumper and the lights on mine a few times now all the steps are covered in the PDFs. If you have small hands you can even remove the bolts at the rear of the bumper undertray without jacking up the vehicle and removing the wheels (although it helps if you raise it slightly by driving onto some 1" blocks of wood).
Once the bumper is off there are three screws holding each lamp unit to the frame - one easily visible on the front and two on the rear outward-end accessed through the wheel arches.
I don't know of a video, however the workshop PDF manual pages attached to the bottom of this other post contain step by step diagrams.
Having removed the bumper and the lights on mine a few times now all the steps are covered in the PDFs. If you have small hands you can even remove the bolts at the rear of the bumper undertray without jacking up the vehicle and removing the wheels (although it helps if you raise it slightly by driving onto some 1" blocks of wood).
Once the bumper is off there are three screws holding each lamp unit to the frame - one easily visible on the front and two on the rear outward-end accessed through the wheel arches.