I have a 2011 XJL 5.0 supercharged. I am looking into getting Pulley and tune for more power but I’d like some experienced and updated advice.

I've read through previous post but they all seem to be a little old, and some inconclusive.

#1 I have no interest in upgrading the heat exchanger/intercooler, so I don’t think the Larger crank would be N option for me.

I spoke with. Rep from Mina Gallery about their package that includes upper pulley, exhaust, intake....but they do not offer a tune, and the representative said it is not needed, and there is no proven gain.

I then see Eurotoys claim of tune and upper pulley only, making 600bhp +/-

it does however appear that the pulley from Eurotoys requires the the supercharger snout to be machined, but Mina Galleries does not.

can anyone point me in the right direction? Does anyone have Pulley and tune? What brand? Is the tune worth it? Any gain from tune? What was were your dyno results?

thanks!

 

Im listening as well

 

You will have much better luck asking on F-type forum, which shares 5.0 engine with XJs. Most people there like VAP tune with a pulley. You are correct by noting that a tune will make heat issues worse, but it is not an issue unless you live somewhere really hot, like Texas. I don't imagine you take your XJL racing, so that is not an issue/consideration for you.

You can remove engine cover, that alone will make engine bay much cooler. 0$ performance mod that I highly recommend. Yes, upgraded intercooler is a great idea, but not necessary in mild climate and street use.

 

I use VAP. Stage II tune and their crank pulley on my 2014 XJR. Dynoed at 530 HP at the wheels. What it has at the flywheel is any ones guess. Runs 175 MPH in the standing mile.
Over 2 years with all the mods and zero problems of any kind. It just flat runs!!!
Very happy with Chris the tuner and Stuart the salesman. Wait for their yearly sales too.

I also have the larger IC pump and the much larger IC replacing the plastic stock one with a very nice custom heliarced Al. one. Note be careful where you buy this as I got robbed and paid $500 more because I did not shop around. The improved IC is only made by one company in the UK and everyone else just sells it with added costs on top.

Anyone that claims a tune in NOT needed on a Jaguar 5.0L SC engine is simply wrong. I know I have done it all. Prove it to your self and start with just a VAP tune.
After that I could NOT wait to install the lower pulley!!

Forget the loud intake and exhaust crap. That's all for the boy racers. You problem is NOT with the intake or exhaust on these engines. It's HEAT! And even then compared to other cars I find heat soak to be a minor problem but again it all depends on your conditions and I am in a very hot place.
This is why I don't have an upper pulley as the tuner warned me about getting into changing the heat range on the plugs due to the extra heat build up. I would still like to and may port the blower to help with heat build up too.

A few people have added Meth injection and I would do it in a minute but we don't have a dedicated kit for these cars so you are on your own on how to install and operate it.
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I am also planning to do a VAP tune and pulley on my 2010 XJ SC whenever I get my fuel pressure issue sorted. I’ve done a lot of maintenance to make sure my car would be ready for the added loads, so once this is done I think it’s off to the races.

Let is know what you end up doing.

 

What pump did you use?

 

On mine 2010 SuperSport i have both pulleys combo, no heat exchanger mods - just a 010 IC pump.
100-200kmh 7.6 sec and 12.03/197.7kmh on a 1/4 mile (according to Dragy, pull was made on a public road, so lots of wheelspin)

 

The only common upgraded pump I have heard of is the old standby Bosch 010 pump. There is the Johnson CM30 too but it's not near as popular.

The 010 pump is just over $100 and it has a MB plug on it. So you can either splice it to the pins on top of the pump or purchase the correct MB pigtail and solder that on. I used the MB pigtail so I can plug and unplug the pump the same as stock. The MB part numbers have been posted before but I don't have them handy right now.
Bosch 010 Pump

The Johnson pump is a marine pump and claims to pump 3 times more than the 010 pump. But it's closer to $200. Is anyone running this pump?
Johnson CM30 pump
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Somehow, I didn’t receive any notifications of responses on this post....

I haven’t pulled the trigger on a tune and pulley yet.

I have however got the Mina Gallery intake and exhaust.

I do live in TEXAS...so heat is a big factor.

I would love the lower pulley for the extra power, and ease of install. But not wanting to mess with the heat exchanger (crying)

 

I’d be willing to go with the lower alone. I wouldn’t think combining the two would be beneficial for the supercharger air temperatures.

have you done any data logging? Dyno? Or does your Dragy app allow you to view IAT2 temperatures?

id be interested to know how high the supercharger temps get.

also where are you located?

 

The maximum iat2 i've seen was while sitting in a heavy traffic, at 32deg.C, and it was 63deg.C.
During a dyno or a 1/4 pull there was something like 55deg (which is pretty normal).
Im in Moscow, Russia.

 

Chuck77083 I am in Texas too. I have the lower pulley and the stage II tune. VAP's tuner recommended NOT adding the upper pulley for the reasons you stated. Heat. Plus they also recommend going to copper core plugs with a different gap. Then you will need to change plugs at least every 30K miles compared to 100K miles with the stock double iridium plugs. So more hassle and upkeep. Plus it's not a simple job on these 5.0L SC V-8's! He also stated that you will be on the ragged edge of heat soak so will need to watch IAT's very closely.

I have a larger IC and pump and have not seen any heat soak that I can tell?
I may not notice it as I came from a 2005 STR and with that car's M112 Eaton it was VERY obvious when the car went into heat soak. These more modern TVS blowers just work so much better and are so much more efficient. I do data log IAT's but get different numbers depending which app I am using so I am suspicious of my numbers. Jaguar is not a common car to tune so the information is very thin and sketchy.

I ran mine on a dyno with a 97F air temp and very high humidity. Power was going up with every pull as the operator learned how to drive the car on a dyno. With those conditions I would think the car would get heat soaked?
Take a look if your interested?
2014 XJR Dyno

But as always take these things with a grain of salt. Dyno's can be made to show any number you want. The ONLY real numbers are from third party timed events such as a drag strip and standing mile speed runs. I find it very humbling to run at a track. Always lots of guys WAY faster!!

Here is my Texas mile results.
Jag at the Texas Mile

A fun picture too!


This is what it's all about.
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Copper core plugs arent a great idea under a boost - it's too easy to blow the spark out of these. Yeah, for sure, it's possible to play with a dwell, but it will affect a overall timing.
On the other hand - at sommer it's very hot here and a lot of heavy traffic (it's not that unusual to idle for a 20-up minutes before you move for a meter or two) and i havent had any iat2 issues with dual pulleys, stock IC and bosch 010 pump. Yes, you'll lack a perfomance after sitting at idle for a while ,but it will return once you'll drive a bit (data logging confirms it). Yes - 1/4mile may be ruined, but i can always use a co2 fire extinguser to cool down IC if i'll ever want to
BTW, stock timing advance figures are shown for a 55deg.C of IAT2. So there's a plenty of room for safety.

 

Yes I have no personal experience with copper plugs that was just the recommendation from VAP's tuner and he has a lot more experience with tuning Jag's than I do. You also see it recommended on other cars too. When I ran the Texas mile I talked to a Cadillac guy pushing around 1000 HP at the wheels and he ran copper plugs and changed them every 10K miles! So that kind of put me off on adding the upper pulley. Plus the install is much harder for a smaller gain than what you get with the lower pulley. Which is just plain simple and quick to install.

I wish mine was a flex-fuel model so I could get into running corn. It strange because we do have at least one member on the forum that DOES have a flex-fuel 5.0L SC model. He even posted the sticker on the fuel filler. Don't know why Jaguar left it off the XJR? Hope he can jump in this thread and add his experiences.
Maybe a Meth injection setup will be next but again no kit and your on your own to rig it up.
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Is it pointless to run just a tune on the 5.0 without changing the lower pulley? Will the tune alone still significantly increase the risk for heat soak?

 

tune alone will definitely see improvements.

it’s not so much “heat soak” you have to worry about.

With any pulley upgrade, the blower will spin faster, create more boost, which produces extra heat to a certain degree.

for me I just wanted to be discreet about my mods until my warranty is up.

after that I’d be willing to do other modifications and not have to worry about hiding them or putting factory parts back on.

 

Tune is great by itself. I noticed no heat soak at all. I live in a hot part of Texas and did my dyno runs at 97F with high humidity. No problems.

Now be aware that if the car is ever tuned it will be recorded internally on the PCM. I can see it with the SDD and I can see it with an aftermarket scanner. I did the stage II tune and lower pulley while still under warranty. My car has been almost trouble free and the one and only repair done under warranty was the water pump and nothing was said or noted on the invoice. The pulley is in plain sight when you change the water pump. You can't miss it if you know what to look for.

So does Jag even check? I don't know maybe if you blow up an engine or transmission they would check.

But in the US the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act prevents any manufacturer from denying warranty coverage UNLESS they can prove the mods caused the damage/problem. It's funny because Ford now states their warranty covers track usage on the newer mustangs. So I did not worry about it.
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Denso PCM doesn't records that it was/is tuned.
Bosch one does, but the DTC can be disabled in a tune (untill next reflash/update), so it won't tell that it's tuned

 

On my 2014 XJR the tune does not set a check engine light but there is a code stored. It's noted permanently in the software however and can't be erased.
Please see here where I documented the tune IS detected using the Autel HT200. Once you flash it over the OEM tune. P167F-00 None OEM Calibration Detected is the code to look for.
Non-OEM Tune Detected

I encourage people to get this very cheap scanner because it can reset the service indicator which a great value and surprising for the price.
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It's just a tuner fault to disable this DTC. It can be easily disabled in a tune and won't come back untill you'll reflash the OEM tune back.
However there's a way to fix it if someone wishes to by removing a PCM and performing a reflash on a bench (flash with oem tune and fixed eeprom).
Or it's still possible to disable to flash back a OEM tune - SDD will throw an error and won't flash a PCM (so in this case the p167f will be hidden permanently).