I have the 5.0L SC engine in my XJR and I have several so called shop manuals. They do cover this for the 3.0L Diesel but I have been searching these massive multi-thousand page documents and can't find anything on removing the compressor itself on the 5.0L engine?

I have searched and a number of people have replaced the DPS valve which what my goal is but they had it done at a shop so no further details.
Any pointers?
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Hope this helps as in the TSB they note the page location in the manual on topix .for Compressor r&r

 

Yes I have gone thru the entire AC section on 3 different manuals? F-Type, XF and XJ. Only can find 3.0L instructions? I must have incomplete manuals?
Thanks XJsss for posting that TSB multiple times as it is exactly what my car has just started doing. I know how to get the AC working again. Some engine RPM and a bit of road speed seems to get it back.

One of the indicators of a bad DPS valve is no slow speed cooling fan running when the AC is on. Mine does this and then the fan starts when ever the AC starts cooling again.
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Not too long ago I was in ToPix when I was replacing cooling system parts, and coincidentally I did look at the HVAC part with remove & install of the compressor (section 412-03 IIRC).
My wife's 2012 AC was beginning to act like you're describing, so I was beginning to look into what it takes.
I asked the last dealership I was at a couple months ago how much they'd charge to do the job with the compressor & condenser I supply, and they described it as a few hours, and (IIRC again) between $1k & $2k.
But looking in the ToPix "Air Conditioning Compressor - V8 N/A 5.0L Petrol/V8 S/C 5.0L Petrol" (section 412-03), I believe it looked like it was accessed through the left wheel well, similar to how I replaced the compressor on my wife's Oldsmobile Aurora years ago.
Go into JLR ToPix for a short/cheap subscription for your year XJ and look for that section of the shop manual. That's my plan IF I decide to tackle it myself instead of "a couple $G's" at my dealership to install the parts I bring in.
And the reason I do consider having them do it although it ain't cheap is that I know they have the right equipment, seals & ancillaries & they'll do it right - it is a weight-specific fill of the freon.
And it's not something done often or frequently.
I had my local LR dealership do it for my 2012 Range Rover a few years ago, and it's worked perfect since.
For those reasons, it's generally worth it for me, and I appreciate that the JLR dealerships I use happily use parts I bring, albeit they won't warrant the parts they don't provide of course.

 

Thanks for the suggestion about removing the compressor thru the left side wheel well. I think that's the way to approach this.
I have done plenty of AC work and have my own gauges and use the free tool loaner program from O'Reilly's to borrow a vacuum pump.

Surprised you had to replace both the compressor and condenser? Usually the condenser's pretty trouble free aside from plugging or mechanical damage? I assume the new condenser came with a new desiccant bag too?
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Well got started on the repair and of course found out the Jaguar TSB V7 is WRONG!!! They have the VIN's and the part numbers screwed up somehow?
According to the TSB XJ's up to VIN 58602 use DPS # C2D42376. This does NOT fit my 2014 XJR with VIN 54xxx. The other part number is #C2D51357 for XJ's with VIN's above V58603.

Here is my DPS next to #C2D42376 which is the top valve. Note the diameter's are noticeably different.
Mine is definitely #C2D51357! This part number is less than half the price of the other part number too. Plus MUCH easier to find as I had to order from the UK when I ordered the wrong part.




Here is the compressor and the location of the DPS valve. It's easy to change on the bench and just keep everything spotless.





Here are some additional problems I ran into.

Steps to get the AC compressor out:
Remove the under body tray.
Remove the drivers side wheel and wheel well liner. I regularly break the plastic screw push pins. They are #C2S9354020 and go for less than $10 for 10 on EBay.

You will now have a small bit of space to work.





Remove the drivers side air box and intake tube. Not sure this is needed but it does give you good room to work the belt tensioner so worthwhile to remove.
Remove belt from AC compressor. Note just take it off the pulley and leave it on the car as this is the belt that's behind the SC belt.
Remove small rubber flap around transmission oil cooler. This will be visible once the wheel well liner is removed. 2 plastic push pin type fasteners.

Now the hard part!
The transmission oil cooler is a small Aluminum brick and for some reason it's mounted to a thick plastic block instead of being bolted directly to the car's frame. Why I don't know and seems to serve no purpose? But it does take up space that we don't have!

One small bolt holds the cooler to the thick plastic base. Remove this and work the cooler around until you can access the two large bolts that attach this piece of plastic. They are mounted under the cooler so you can't reach them until the cooler is moved over a bit. The problem here is Jaguar mounted these two large bolts pointing straight down. So any water that gets to the cooler will pool in the holes and rust these two bolts. No way for the water to drain off.

I am not in the rust belt and still had these rusty. The problem is when the threads get tight from rust the Aluminum rivet nut with the threads starts turning in the frame. Real fun! I rigged up a small vice grip to hold the Aluminum rivet nut and finally got the bolt out.
Here is the base and I will blast and paint the bolts before reassembly.



Bad picture but here is the cooler tied back out of the way.



Now more fun because you can leave the transmission cooler brick attached to the transmission oil lines but you must remove the two coolant lines. After time and heat these rubber hoses will be stuck badly on the Aluminum nipples. With little to no room to fight the hose clamps off. I use a cable type pliers for this. Then a right angle pick to break the seal between the rubber hose and the nipples. Took a while to get these two rubber hoses off. I let the coolant drain from these hoses until it stopped. Then I tied the oil cooler back out of the way so I could get to the AC compressor. I removed the compressor out the bottom of the car.

The AC compressor has 3 large bolts holding it to the engine block and the top rear one is hard to get to. I removed the 3 bolts so I could lower the AC compressor and work on the peanut fittings attaching the AC hoses. One electrical connector with a sliding lock. Again hard to reach and I did it after the compressor was lowered but take care not to damage the wire and plug.

I was surprised as I found some green oil in the under tray and this fitting was all oily and green. Took it all apart and found some corrosion in the connection which I have not seen before? Cleaned it all up and lubed the O-rings. Hope to have fixed this small seep.




My car did have the symptoms pointing to a bad DPS too. Low side was 65-70 psi and the high side was 145-150 psi. Plus engine fan not running and blowing warm air inside the car. So low side was too high and the high side was too low. Car uses Pag46 Refrigerant oil and needs 700 grams of R134a or 24.7 oz.

Shut down waiting on the right DPS valve. I was hoping to get it all done today. I really laugh at what Jaguar puts for time to do this repair too! It was at least 4 hard hours just to get the compressor off and on the bench. The TSB lists it at 1.1 hours for the complete repair!! I am slow and old too but I can't see how it could be done that fast without doing damage to things either.
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I'm sorry if I falsely sounded as if know enough to say that I know for sure how/where to replace it.
I'm recalling when I browsed the TOPix manual on the JLR website while doing other things. I seem to recall that it went down the path of the wheel well.
My suggestion - and it is from experience of using the JLR TOPix website for some repairs - was to refer to the actual JLR TOPix here:
Home | TOPIx (jlrext.com)
create your own FREE "account" from the "register" option (that applies to individual owners too, not just professional mechanics), subscribe for a day or so, and get to the workshop e-manuals by this path:



And it's not that I've ever had to replace a failed condenser, but more that I never wouldn't.
And I wouldn't take it to a place that would replace the compressor without at least suggesting replacing the condenser along with it.
Keep in mind that the dryer (...filter/desiccant) is in the condenser.
It might be true that a variable displacement type compressor would need to be replaced for reasons other than a convention compressor, but any time I would have to go to the lengths to replace the compressor, I would not leave it with the 12 year old (in my case) filter/dryer and condenser.
If the evaporator coils weren't so deep into it, and if they had the filter/dryer in it, I would replace it too.
And of course small pieces such as the orifice tube, or in our case the expansion valve.

 

That's a very good point and I also tend to replace compressors but this seemed clearly to be a DPS valve problem so I am not replacing the compressor at this time. Hope this does NOT come back to bite me! Car is right at 60K miles so not a lot of miles on the compressor yet either.
Yes I followed your wheel well advice as now you have some access from the side as well as the bottom of the compressor.

Funny on Topix as I have a valid e-mail and I can reset my password to but I can't log in because the system says invalid log in? I have a support request going with Topix right now so I can once again get access. But I had time and could not wait on Jaguar to fix my account before I started the repairs.

It seems 2014 was a transition year for Jaguar AC? This may fit into the part number error's I am running into?

My car has the old style magnetic clutch but Jaguar dropped the clutch style compressors and went to a more modern style called "Shear Pulley" compressors. These turn 100% of the time and all the refrigerant adjustment is done internal to the compressor. Pretty much what the DPS does. If those types of compressor lock up the pulley has an internal shear key. So you no longer will lock a AC pulley burning up the drive belt.The belt just turns the pulley and nothing else. I had never heard of this before so was interested.
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Thanks for posting the great repair narrative with good pics - I may be better off to go down the same path you did instead of replacing the whole compressor & condenser. Your experience may save me time & money, and I certainly appreciate that. Thanks!

I bet you're right & okay since you're replacing only the DPS. I thought you were replacing the whole compressor.
The DPS sounds like a much better idea.

That happened to me last night too when I tried to log in to TOPix. It's been a while, so I reset the password (successfully) since they require a reset pretty often. But even after that although it recognized my log-in it wouldn't let me in, just said to contact their support people.

i know my 2012 Rover has the variable displacement compressor, and since it doesn't look like the compressor on my wife's 2012 XJ cycles on & off, I'm pretty sure it's variable displacement too.
The conventional clutch type compressor doesn't have a DPS, does it? I believe the DPS actuates the swash plate, more aggressive when more cooling needed, less when not.

 

Yes mine is a magnetic clutch style compressor and it has a DPS valve?
Like you I thought once they went to variable displacement compressors using an adjustable swash plate that there was no longer any need for the clutch to kick the compressor on and off?
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A small update?
Got the other DPS valve #C2D51357. Fit's perfectly. Got it all back in and pulled a vacuum for an hour or two. Held vacuum all night.
Here is the label on my compressor;





I decided to go ahead and change the coolant as it's 10 years old. I got to use my vacuum filler for the first time and I wish I had this thing years ago! Filled it in a couple of minutes all the way to the top! I will see when I get the car started if there is any air to bleed out but right now I would have to say no air.

BUT then problems! I had struggled to get the coolant hoses off the transmission oil cooler brick as they had vulcanized themselves to the cooling brick nipples. Had to use a right angle pick to work in between the rubber hose and the nipple. Got it loose but some rubber remained on the nipple and I apparently poked a hole in the hose too because when I started the car it started leaking out above the hose clamp and a small slit was visible.

Decided to replace both transmission brick coolant hoses. The one with the hole was cheap at $22 but Jaguar does NOT service the other oil cooler hose separately but only as part of an assembly. Still not too bad at $68. $101 for both with shipping.
Long separate hose is C2Z4537 about $22




Lower radiator hose assembly W/oil cooler hose is C2D23172 about $68.





Both appear to be in stock but I am shut down again waiting on parts!
I do like those yellow clips as you just pull them off and your done! Such a struggle to remove them with those long cable clamp pliers.
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Hoses replaced and I got it re-gassed and operating but that peanut fitting that was seeping oil only is still seeping? No leak when checking with my bubble fluid so it's got to be real tiny?
I have ordered both seals for that connection in the hope I won't need to replace any AC hoses. They are really buried! Man over $20 for an O-ring and a seal which is really just another O-ring. I have several AC O-ring assortments but nothing matched so Jaguar must use specific O-ring sizes?

Not happy with the cooling either? Hi-side is running 220-225 psi and the low side is 46-54 psi. Can't get the vent temperature below 52F-54F and I regularly get 40F-42F on other cars? I am not going to do anything yet because it was only 81F when I filled it so not loading the AC very much at all. Also not sure the new DPS is OK either as I am again NOT getting the engine fan to turn on low speed as soon as the AC is turned on. This is a real simple check because even if the car is dead cold the AC should turn on the fan to low regardless.

With more research I resize I should have listed to 12jagmark! The valve alone was $206 from the UK and entire AC compressors WITH the DPS valve are all over for $250-$500. Same brand Sanden as the factory installed! Of course Jaguar wanted $800 or more for the same compressor.
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Wanted to come back and post that a vendor has released this valve in the after market and they claim it's been improved over the failure prone factory DPS valve.
Don't know if that's true but at less than $50 it is much cheaper than the Jaguar DPS valve. They also have a nice video on how to check the DPS valve once it's been removed from the compressor. I learned several things from that video!
Replacement AC DPS Valve

They have a number of DPS valves and as they post it's confusing and a lot of times you must physically match your valve because Jaguar has used different valves even in the same year and model car! As I found out above and was not able to identify the correct valve until after I got the AC compressor out. No small job on the X351 XJ!

I am considering getting one in case I need to replace the DPS(Again!).

Interesting as this vendor is the one that has released the rear water manifold in Aluminum for the V-6 cars. I have been watching and waiting for the V-8 version to come out and ran across these DPS valves as I searched thru their products.
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Hey Club... were you able to discern which AC compressor you have prior to removing it? When I look on any parts website (O'Reilly's, Rockauto, etc), they show 2-3 different compressors for my year model (2011). There's a PXC16, a PXE16, and a PXV16... I was hoping to identify which one it is without removing wheel and fender well to get a glimpse at it...any thought's/tips on ID'ing the right compressor? Thanks...James

 

The easiest way might be to call the parts department at your local dealership & ask them. They have access to the data on how the car is configured by VIN. I haven't run into a dealership parts person that isn't helpful with specific part number info when they can input your VIN into their database.

 

I removed front left wheel and fender skirt, question answered thanks to iPhone camera fitting in tight space

 

Any recommendations on brands of compressors to use or avoid? GPD and Nissens are both listed on Rockauto, but Nissens is $140 more... both are new compressors as well...Nissens notes they are a replacement for Sanden which is the OEM on my car...

 

It's up to you but as you show in your pictures Sanden is the OEM supplier and I tend to stick with that unless there is some other reason to change?
Plenty of Sandens around too. Many on EBay.
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I put a Four Seasons compressor on my 2012 Range Rover which is the same configuration as our 2012 XJ.
Nissens is good too of course.
The condenser coil (with filter/dryer) I used was a Nissens.
They've been working great since July 2019.
I had the local dealership install them for a little over $1k IIRC.
I plan to have the compressor & condenser replaced in the XJ in a month or 2 before it starts getting warmer, and I expect to use the Four Seasons compressor & Nissens condenser, with the Jaguar dealership installing on it.
It's got a sticky actuator valve that takes a little time to let the compressor cool.

 

I replaced the compressor but ran into another set of changes?
Seems Jaguar changed the size and spacing of the peanut fitting connections on the compressor. Plus they added an additional face O-ring? Strange because both compressors are marked as PXC16?




No mention of this and I did note that Jaguar has also changed the hoses but this is not mentioned anywhere either? I changed the high side hose and it was the new style and fit perfectly. BUT the low side connection had a different stud size and the stud was a different distance from the hole? I slotted the hose flange and the diameter of the compressor hole seems to be the same as it fit. I have ordered the low side hose and yes it does come with the new spacing/size fitting.

If I have to do any more work on the AC I will go ahead and replace that low pressure hose too.
They have also changed the seal set up? The old one had 2 O-rings and now it's an O-ring plus some kind of seal ring?





There is also a rubber retainer that needs to be swapped over to the new compressor.





This is a Sanden compressor and claims to be OEM. They include some kind of holographic sticker to indicate it's genuine(Outlined in red below). But who really knows?




Here is the insert that came with the compressor talking about the "genuine" sticker.



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