I measured the larger pipe on the left side of the compressor as mounted and measured 210-220F while running for a few minutes after my drive home.

The high pressure line at the service port measured 150-160F.

Maybe it’s louder because I went with aftermarket, but I really don’t want to damage it further. I was thinking today that I could ask my shop to evacuate and recharge me. Maybe they have a way of separating any oil in the system to ensure I have enough? I did refill the compressor with ~3.5-4.0 oz of PAG46 oil and tried to load another 1oz in the fill line before filling, but that didn’t work well.

 

Hi Club,

I don’t see the troubleshooting guide in this thread. Could you tell me how to find it?

 

Does the AC work OK? As you said it's a different brand of compressor and maybe they do run a bit noisier than you were use too?
Just guessing as I did not see if you had said how the AC is working.
.
.
.

 

Yes, the AC works great! I just can tell when the compressor is engaged as it saps power from the engine then there is the audible spooling noise that follows the engine rpm (turns off when AC if off). This makes me hesitant to keep running it if it will damage the compressor. Only thought I had since I don’t want to start over is to pay for a recharge at my local auto shop. May do nothing as well. Thanks as always!

 

I am sorry Griff! I tried several times to upload it but the forum can't handle the file size. I tried to send it to your E-mail but same thing?

But I have uploaded it to here;
Jaguar AC Troubleshooting Guide

As always this is a link from some guy on the internet! This link should be good for 30 days I "think"?
Note it's about 35 MB in size.
.
.
.

 

Thanks club!

I have downloaded it and will use it as a reference! After a few more days of driving, I am feeling more confident in the compressor, and the cold air really feels good. I’ll let you know when I knock out the serpentine belt and whether that helps anything. I have the spark plugs ready for a weekend later this year.

Cheers!

 

Good news as I was not sure you had a problem?

Have fun changing the plugs too!
.
.
.

 

So I'm having a ac problem now suddenly in my XJ. I'm guessing it's the DPS but I'll verify. Is it still the easiest to just replace the whole compressor? Or go with the DPS (I see it for sale for $100 or so)

 

Considering the amount of labor is about the same, I would recommend you replace the compressor (don’t have to buy OEM if you don’t want to). You don’t want to have to be back in a year doing the same job! clubairth1 would know what a pain that is!

 

I did just that and yes I had to go back in and finally just replaced the entire compressor with DPS valve with one that had a warranty. That was months ago and it's now in the 95+ degree time of the year here and it's blowing ice cold.
.
.
.

 

Are the symptoms of a bad valve and a bad compressor the same? I heard that a bad valve means high pressure on the low pressure line

 

Well I got a refrigerant filler can I keep around hooked up to my Low Pressure port. It started out as 0psi or maybe it just wasn't reading right. I attempt to put some refrigerant in the system and suddenly it charges right up, at 50psi (it's around 90F here). Instantly I hear the blower change and engine speed change. Now my A/C switch is definitely kicking in, and is changing the engine idle speed as it should. Now it isn't blowing HOT air, but it's sill nowhere near as ice cold as it should be. SO I still have some issue.

I guess my next step is to test the high pressure port- I don't have a comparable adapter yet for that one, will arrive tomorrow.

 

No. The DPS problem is VERY easy to identify once you hook up a set of AC gauges? It does something I have never seen before too. The hi side will be too low and the low side will be too high. That is very unique and odd. It's described well in the TSB about the DPS valve. But again I will point out that TSB had the incorrect DPS valve part number and that required me to purchase both sizes. Now I am beyond the cost of the entire compressor!

Be sure and measure your duct temperature when doing AC work as it all fits together? The little clip on thermometers are only about $15 too.

A bad compressor will usually have low pressures as the pump is worn out.

Your symptoms point to leaks? 50 psi is too high on the low side to get much if any cooling? Remember the low side Evaporator pressure is very close to the temperature of the air coming off the coils. So you want about 25-35 psi on the low side and that should give you a duct temperature in the 40's. But it all depends on the current temperature too.
.
.
.

 

I didn't get my high pressure gauge yet, but it seems like it's definitely that. SDD says that my AC pressure is around 130psi which is too low and it also sets a code for too low in the DTCs. 50psi is too high on the low side. So it has to be DPS

Unfortunately I can't see a way to get the part number of the compressor without taking the thing off. Seems like most people have the pxe16 compressor though in my year range (2011-2014). I might just order that $50 "upgraded" DPS valve blind.

 

Don't order the part number blind. You should be able to spray some brake cleaner on the compressor label to clean it off and snap a picture of the label with your cell phone to decipher the part number of the compressor that way. The PXE and PXC16 compressors are very different and totally incompatible. My 2013 used a PXC16 compressor, for what it's worth.

Also, do not recharge your system by using a temperature-pressure chart. Fill the system by weight, which is specified on the underhood label, using a postal scale and fresh cans of refrigerant. Tare the scale out when the first can is empty and use the tare weight to help you fill a partial of the next full can. HVAC systems are intolerant of "halfway" fixes- do it right the first time and it will last for years to come.

 

Very good points!
One good thing is my XJ takes 2 cans even of R134a. Simple to fill.
.
.
.