Found this video on youtube that I think if for no other reason, shows a lot of how to remove things from the engine. This was an engine out of an F-Pace that had been stolen and driven till it died (and oh did the engine die). It suffered the normal coolant cross over pipe failure. Granted, seeing the "extra stuff" that was in the coolant system, I am not sure if it was due to the extreme temps the engine hit or if it is "normal" for an overheated engine. To give you an idea of how hot this engine got, it essentially cooked the oil into the pistons (the video will show you the details). I am not sure how hot that is, but it gives you an idea of what can happen to the engine. It also shows how the engines fail on the overheat (cylinder to cylinder leakage, on this one no compression in any cylinder)

The other interesting thing is this shows how the V6 and V8 blocks differ and how the V6 has the 2 blanked off cylinders and what was added to allow this to work.

Anyone got any idea of what the sludge is that he pulls from the coolant channels or the hard substance from the heads. If this is an interaction between the oil and coolant, then this is a VERY GOOD reason as to why turning off the engine is so important at such an early point in the overheat. Just goes to show how things cascade in this engine when it is being misused.

Hopefully this gives people an idea of what it takes to do work on the engine and maybe some confidence in things not being that difficult.

 

Who knows what all the black goo in the coolant passages is, lots of theories floated in the YouTube vid comments ranging from melted plastic coolant system hoses to StopLeak. I reckon there is zero chance it is melted plastic and my money is on some type of StopLeak.
Strange way for the heater manifold pipe to fail (it might be a cross-over pipe but it is not the cross over pipe which is at the front of the engine), usually that pipe splits at the seam but in this case there are two holes, one in the body of the pipe and the other near one of the mounting "legs".
Bit of a chicken and egg scenario, did the pipe fail and leak all the coolant out which then caused a massive overheat, or did overheating cause the pipe to fail?
I vote for the former- holes in pipe caused a massive leak, but that begs the question of what caused the holes in the pipe???

 

Most failures of this sort are caused by lack of maintenance or inattentive drivers.

The plastic cooling system parts can only withstand a finite number of cold to hot to cold cycles prior to failing. Both the water outlet at the front and heater pipe at the back are known failure points that should be replaced around 60,000 miles (98,000 km) along with having the gearbox serviced.

 

I switched our 2014 RRS 3.0L to Evans waterless coolant in Jan 2019 and 57K miles. It's worked amazingly well with no overheating and no coolant system failures of any kind (water pump, plastic parts, heat exchangers, or gaskets) now in Sep 2023 with 118K miles. The beauty is the vehicle can be driven in 105 degF Texas weather for hours and as soon as it pulls up in the driveway, I can pop the hood and remove the coolant reservoir cap with zero pressure. It's that lack of pressure that keeps from stressing the water pump seals, coolant pipes, gaskets and heat exchangers.

I'll be converting over our Mercedes GLC300 soon, and when I find a good low miles, late model XJL V8 to buy, I will convert that as soon as I get it.

It's also a lifetime coolant because it doesn't need the corrosion additives, or turn to gel, because there's no water.

If the thief had just taken the time to switch to Evans, they would still be driving their stolen Jag

 

Some testing and further discussion of Evans?
Pretty detailed test but it is from a competitor too.
Evans Coolant Test

Also be aware it is flammable.
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Waterless coolant still gets hot, otherwise the engine wouldn't run properly, and it still gets cold/cool.

The accepted problem with plastic coolant pipes (Not just JLR), is that they become brittle due to repeated heat cycles.

Your choice of coolant will not alter the cold-hot-cold cycle.

wombat

 

Exactly. The parts become weaker, but what breaks them? It's the pressure. The cap is rated at 20psi on these cars. Have you ever held a football with 20psi? It's normally around 13psi, and it's like a rock.

Take away the pressure, and you are not going to blow open these parts as they age. If anything does fail, 0psi won't cause a catastrophic bursting and loss of coolant that 20psi would cause. And when 20psi coolant loses it's pressure, it boils at a much lower temp, which warps your heads and drops your valves. Waterless boils at a much higher temp, and you can literally run the car without a cap.

Think about that.

 

I read all the FUD before trying Evans. That stuff scared me too. But I had to do something different with the weak cooling system. Bottom line, you guys do whatever you want, but I sleep much better knowing I have almost no pressure in the cooling system and the 3.0L has run great with it for 4 years and over 60K miles with all original parts and zero problems.

By the way, do you realize how silly it is to say Evans is flammable??? It's pure glycol. Guess what the antifreeze you run has in it? Yep, glycol. So your inferior antifreeze is flammable too!

 

NOt to throw a wrench into a "no pressure" argument, but to make the coolant flow through the engine, you need a pressure differential (aka a d/p). The higher the d/p, the faster the flow will be based on a given system. Now, if the Evans fluid is not as thick as say a normal coolant, then the d/p may be slightly less as it won't take as much d/p to get the coolant to move at a given speed. BUt, since the Evans fluid is very close to what normal coolant is, it most likely has about the same flow characteristics. Therefore, the pressure on the output of the water pump is going to be essentially the same. Now, i iwll give you that the Evans may run slightly less (by about 13 psig) because it is not running at a saturation condition.

For those that are not familiar with heat transfer and fluid flows, a saturation condtion is a state that a fluid gets in that adding heat does not cause the fluid to get hotter, but is pushing it closer to changing from a liquid to a gaseous state. In the case of our coolant systems, the water leaving the radiator is at about 180F, but the water inside the engine may be up around 230F. The water at 230F is not flashing to steam because part of it has, but this has caused a pressure to form and because of the pressure, addiitonal coolant cannot change state. So, the fluid builds up heat energy that is then transferred away once this fluid hits the radiator. You can see this effect take place on your stove. Get a big pot of water and put it on a burner that is outputting a lot of heat. Put a thermometer into the pot of water such that the thermometer is just off the bottom of the pot. What you will see is the temp will rise at a fairly rapid rate to 212F, but then, will seem to hover at 212 for a bit until the water starts to boil. This is the effect that I am talking about. IF you want to learn more, you can look up "heat of vaporization", "critical heat flux", and "nucleate boiling". You understand this stuff, it makes understanding what happens in a car engine much more relatable.

 

Good point about the flammability as I did not understand that either?
Unless Glycol burns? I guess it will at a high enough temperature?
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I am way beyond any theoretical discussions about whether waterless coolant is good or bad. I have personal empirical evidence that it rocks in these modern car applications that run at 200F, not 180F, which means 20psi, not 13psi radiator caps, and have cooling systems with weak plastic pipes, weak water pump seals, and weak engine oil and transmission oil heat exchangers. I have been running this car for 1,200 miles per month in extremes including stop an go traffic in 105F Texas heat (more like 115F on the freeway cement), and it's been amazing. That's the end of any and all internet debates for me on the topic.