No worries, these vehicles must be jumped from battery, what are located under trunk floor.
The front power points are only to get trunk open. (Owners handbook have details written) Exept very last manufactured model years. (i think 2018-2019 have proper jump points under hood?)

 

Thank you. I may have mis-remembered. Does it damage them if they are jumped from the front? Cheers.

 

We have read black-outs after somebody have tryed, but no one reported afterwards what and how fixed. At least i havent spotted.

 

OK, having done much more study on this over the weekend, from listers on this forum with much more knowledge than me, it does appear you need this JLR Water pump (unless there is a better aftermarket version?) and it must be this latest part number - AJ 813909 - as there were so many failed / failing water pump part #'s before this: -

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/JG-AJ813909


Here is the very helpful thread that appears to be the source of all knowledge on this: -
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...placed-132537/

Hope that helps everyone. if I can find the definitive parts numbers for the very best hoses / connections etc. I will update, but defer to those with greater knowledge and experience.

 

There is some info on the F-type forum https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...7/#post2714866
suggesting that the supplied O-ring seals with the aftermarket aluminium kits go hard and then leak. There was a suggestion to use higher quality o-rings, possibly with better heat tolerance (Viton?).
I'm investigating that right now. Problem is the 0-rings aren't easy to size.... The supplied ones have 2 options (measured best I can): 24mm internal diameter and 3.5mm width. 26mm internal diameter and 3.0mm width (supplied in case the Y-piece is too tight a fit. It drops the total seal diameter by 0.5mm). This is for the RKX kit.

 

All the more reason to still switch to waterless coolant to eliminate the high pressure in the cooling system even though you switch to metal crossovers.

 

my RKX kit came in yesterday - it came with a smaller set of O rings in case the ones on the tubes were too big. maybe theyre noticing this issue now. sit rep to follow soon. doing some of the work little at a time when i get of work. ordered a water pump. really wanting that metal heater pipe for the back and the all rubber crossover tube but that will have to wait. supercharger coupler and oil while its all out. if anything gives me a case of " while im here's" its this job...

 

My RKX kit arrived yesterday too and had the same extra set of 0-rings. I've ordered some Viton replacements just in case (having read about cheap supplied o-rings causing leaks) - it is hard to size the rings accurately so will see how they look when fitted.

 

If the Viton ones fit please post some sizes or where you got them? Thanks for the measurements on the supplied O-rings. That maybe close enough.
Very interesting they are sending backup O-rings out too?
.
.
.

 

Having got some Viton replacements in the same size, got some concerns over the original o-ring sizing. Most guidance says the stretch on the o-ring should not exceed 5%, but the original sizes put the stretch at near 20%. According to advice, this can lead to early seal failure. I plan to try to get hold of some genuine Jag hose parts and see what size o-rings are used etc, and what the tolerances are.
If anyone can measure the internal diameter of where the "Y-piece" goes, I can try to calculate the best o-ring size to fit.

 

ok, situational report. car is back together and sounding better, running smoother. solid (green) s/c coupler made the serious rattle go away that sounded like timing at cold start. only noises now are the fuel system ( i dont care for GDI but here we are...)

reused the snout, resealed with grey rtv. no such damage on shaft as some photos have shown from the spring digging into the shaft. evac'd 70ml (cc) of the most stank-nasty oil i've ever smelled. used diff fluid or burnt ferrofluid would have been a perfume in comparison! GM s/c oil went back in, about 150ml or so. it'll be happy. insides of s/c and heat exchanger was pretty clean. gaskets were some cheap $60 listing, but fit fine and all is good.

replaced rear coolant crossover pipe with metal one ("Aumzong" brand $89, out of stock already on amazon) fit was perfect, uses O rings not face seals, coolant pipe flange clicked in place but was not "snug", built like a shark bite, it did its job. I was leery at first. sure as hell DO NOT want to do this again!!! stock part was showing failure points at the seams with waterglass residue.
while S/C was out, replaced the crossover-to-throttle body hose , broke the clips in the process, didnt bother to find new ones. looked like aftermarket listing and had the wrong photo but it was in fact, an OEM Jaguar hose. only came with the spring clamp for the corssover end, not at the throttle body, also didnt have the clips to suspend in air. replaced the knock sensors with oem FORD # 1N1A-12A699-AA that came out of it. also an RKX pcv diaphragm to freshen up the stock one. 68K miles, no need to skimp at this point.

RKX metal Y and front pipes. used the skinnier O rings for the Y pipe. nice and snug. was the original and largest fail point of the stock parts. ends of both were stuck in engine along with O rings. were 2 pc glued stock ones. new GMB water pump and RKX cooler tube in metal. saved $60 sourcing the pump from rock auto in comparison to my costs being at a dealer through commercial account pricing. it pays to do your research! new Bando serpentine belt went on as well, s/c belt reused. all pulleys felt OK , same with tensioners.could not find a good match from Ford although the base numbers were good.

only gripe, aftermarket new coolant reservoir return hose did not fit perfect on the clip-on flange at the top of the metal pipe from RKX. it also wept where the plastic tube met rubber hose going to the reservoir. used the RKX new o ring included.still dripped onto the intake pipe. I then used the stock plastic elbow at that fitting, slathered some RTV, put it back and all is good. used the stock leg of plastic return pipe and rubber hose. a/m section fit fine at the big plastic "v" going down to the throttle body. used Peak pink coolant and might had only lost 2 qts after the leak.

I removed the reservoir and cleaned it out, inspected it, no signs of wear or cracking. pain in the *** putting that hose back on the bottom! ( thats where I used a $6 hand pump to drain about 1.5 gallon of coolant; hell with that stupid plastic drain let alone the time to jack the car up and remove the underpinning!)

best advice I can come up with, make sure you have a hose clamp plier tool ( the cable setup that can lock in place) as it will be your best friend on this job. also a good time to splurge on that silly 1/4" drive 90 tooth ratchet. and it's stubby friend. I wound up using a Husky 3/8" rotating ratchet almost everywhere, aside from the 22 S/c screws where I used my weaksauce snap-on 1/4" air ratchet to bed them before torque sequence. I used a step stool and layed across a kneeling pad laid over the area where the fuse panel was (with door removed) and left the cowl on. sub optimal yet efficient. being 5'6" isnt cool doing this job. I layed a moving blanket across the car and cut it into shape needed to protect the body. the engine and bay were almost spotless, and the supercharger alignment pins didnt put up much fight.

buttoned it all up, burped system, got the P0117 code to prove it, cleared it, all is good. now my 94 vdp is jealous!

sorry if i'm rambling. project adhd and grand marnier are going to town right now.

p.s. nobody ever mentioned theres a bleed tee with that ignorant *** cap on it at the right shock tower cleverly tucked away. saw that buttoning everything back up. little late now...

 

The supercharger takes 150ml of fluid.... if you took 70ml out, 80ml must have remained. Doesn't this mean you now have 230ml in there, or it's overfilled by 60%?

 

I "think" he means 150ml to fill it up to the hole? Since he only got out 70ml means it was low?
.
.
.

 

had 69k miles on it, was a bit low. still let off some pressure when taking the fill plug off. let it drain overnight after using the syringe. maybe 75 ml came out. its happy now - nice n chipper.

 

The SC is sealed....where did the other 80ml go?

 

THe fill hole is at the top, not down the side like the F type. with noticable staining around the edges i'd say it weeps out from pressure past the seals over time. I wasnt going to take the extra time to take it all apart and wait on another seal to show up.

 

Heaven?

 

That would seem like a major engineering miss to not have some way to vent the pressure in the case. Engines, transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials all have vents to avoid pressure building. It's definitely bad for the seals.

 

I concur. however, in my jumping down of rabbit holes, learned that the reason S/C oil is what it is, is that it has a very small expansion coefficient as compared to "normal" engine oils. its not rated in "weight" but has a viscocity of 54 cst. this equates to a 20w oil at 50*C. considering these are being used in sealed systems, thats why. overfilling or excessive weight spec would expand and blow out the seals.

more nerding via Google : What is the Centistoke rating?
The other unit is the Centistoke (cSt) which is used to report the kinematic viscosity of motor oil at high temperatures. The number reflects the time required for a fixed amount of fluid to flow through a certain sized orifice on the testing device.
What is the cSt rating of oil?
In order to claim a viscosity grade , the oil must meet all viscosity test requirements which define that grade. One test used to define the viscosity of engine oil is its kinematic viscosity at 100°C measured in mm2/s or centistokes (cSt). The standard for a 5W-30, for example, is 9.3 to 12.5 cSt.

 

Exact same V6 and V8 engines in the XJ and F-Type, the only difference is the state of tune.
So the SC fill/drain holes are in exactly the same place.
The difference is V8 vs V6, the V8 fill/drain hole is at the back of the SC down the back/side while the V6 fill/drain hole is again at the back of the SC but on top of it.