Is that your way of saying you don't know?

Here's a different way of trying to figure out the correct process - what did you use to "level" the oil, i.e. how did you confirm that the oil level was correct?

 

Since the SC's job is to create and hold pressure, wouldn't it seem like a major engineering miss for it to leak? The other systems you've referenced are not made for building pressure, and if your engine's cylinders were "venting pressure" this would result in low or no compression. A supercharger is designed to operate at pressure, that's what it does..

 

There's got to be a good amount of air in the supercharger. I would think that the range of temp from dead of winter to full operating temp in summer would make quite a big pressure change.

When I drained the fluid in our RRS, it was about half the expected amount as well. That maybe a sign that these units need a vent.

 

Drill a vent into the side of your blower and let us know how it goes

 

Are you saying the cavity with the oil is under the same pressure as the blower section, or just being a douche?

 

I'm trying to find out the correct procedure for when I do this job in a month or so as there are two schools of thought on replacement oil volume, but I keep running into roadblocks like you.

Are you claiming to know better than Jag and Eaton's engineering teams, or are you just being a douche?

 

I already made it clear what I was saying. Pay attention.

Clearly, not everything is engineered well with these superchargers or we wouldn’t be replacing the isolators so often. Mine failed in 25k miles. Do you think the water pumps on these cars and the plastic pipes were well designed??

If people are losing supercharger oil, it makes sense there is something wrong with the design.

Any more douche statements?

 

I'm not saying the oil isn't going anywhere, I'M ASKING WHERE IT WENT. Nobody seems to have any idea. Wild assumptions and guesses with no evidence might be good enough for you, but not me.

You made it to my ignore list months ago, I wish this forum didn't have a "show post" link. I made the mistake of thinking you might have something valuable to say on this particular topic but I guess I'm wrong about everything today.

 

You are on my ignore list from now on.

 

From my experience with various blowers over the years? It matches what was posted here. I have ALWAYS drained less oil out then what I put back in. So ALL SC's do use oil. Now how and why is a matter of debate but I have way too much actual experience to worry about the causes?

I just know that I will be taking out less fluid than I will be putting back in. So far that's been the case on every SC I have worked on. It would be interesting to see if the different blowers use differing amounts of oil but again it just does not matter? I change the SC oil based on mileage or if I happen to take the blower off for some reason.

I do wish Eaton had made the TVS blowers with an easier to access drain/fill port. The old M112 was breeze compared to these!
I also admire the few folks who have managed to change the oil with the SC in place! That's a step too far for me and I will take the SC off to do the oil change.
BUT it is possible and at first I did not think it was!
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I know this is off topic, but it is why I always liked the Lysholm Supercharger on my 2001 Mazda Millenia S---it was lubricated by the engine lubrication system. It got clean oil every 5k miles when I changed the engine oil.

 

I have some experience with "blowers", but it's not in the automotive world. I spent most of my adult life in the precision optics world, working with vacuum chambers of varying sizes. A number of out larger vacuum chambers not only used a "rotary piston" vacuum pump, to evacuate the chamber, but these pumps were assisted by a "roots type" blower, which was located inline, between the chamber and the mechanical vacuum pump. In this application, it's a blower being used in the reverse direction.

Either way, both the vacuum chamber, as well as the auto engine, have the blower creating a "suction", therefore the internal vanes' shafts have seals, which, can allow a limited amount of "seepage" of their gear box's oil, into the intake stream. The blowers I worked with are significantly larger that an automotive unit, therefore the real estate is available for oil level sight glasses, as well as fill and drain ports, for maintenance purposes. However, the operation is quite similar to the car's unit, and yes, oil levels had to be monitored.


Below is one of the pumps that I worked with. As you can see, the blower is pretty large...

 

I would venture to say that there's a possibility that s/c oil could be sucked through the bearings at that gearcase end. the same burnt/orange stain was around the outside of the casing as it met the blower housing. So, burn-off, evap/weep thru case seals and sucked thru bearings are my guesses, dont see it warping into another dimension or alternate universe.

 

I reckon a fair bit of the SC oil is left behind after sucking out as much of the old oil as you can, a bit like how mucho engine oil is left behind in the engine oil galleries after dumping or sucking out the old oil (about 1.5 litres in the AJ133 and AJ126). For the Eaton TVS SCs on our Jags I reckon some is left behind down low like in an engine sump (dunno if there is any actual sump on an Eaton TVS) and some is left coating the various moving parts of the drive mechanism.
I have searched the interwebz for a schematic or photo of the inner workings of where the oil goes in a TVS SC but no luck!

 

Now that is a BIG blower!
Also a fan of sight glasses too.
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This is my suspicion as well... I think sucking the oil oil is likely to leave quite a bit in there, while removing/disassembling/cleaning the SC is going to get all of it out. Since we can't seem to get an answer from old mate about how he knew his oil level was correct, it might be up to me to document it (a job I'm really looking forward to!). I'm removing the SC to do the cooling pipes, so I plan to suck as much oil out as possible then remove and disassemble the SC so I can measure what was left. Could be loads, could be nothing, I have no idea 🤷 What I expect is that I should get 140-150ml of old fluid out in total as I can't find anything to explain where it could be going, but we won't know for sure until I actually get in there. What I do know at the moment is "remove 70ml and put 150ml back" doesn't sit well with me without a clear explanation of why ~150ml didn't come out.

I am also having trouble finding an exploded diagram or similar, but here's a few resources that show the internals:



https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...slight-porting

https://superchargersonline.com/2011...arger-coupler/

 

The other day I noticed some whiter smoke than usual at idle from my exhaust. I can't smell coolant, but I let it cold soak and it looks like I may be losing just a hair. I had my water pump replaced at the same time as my coolant piipes with the aluminum Y pipe and front crossover from EuroAmp, so hopefully just a minor issue with the water pump/OEM solutions. I notice a little seepage under the pump, but the shop who did the work did pressure test.

I'll call and book in a week or two when I have some time, and keep monitoring for now.

 

Well, here's a question and apologies if it has been addressed before.

Isn't it true that replacing the plastic pipes with metal pipes is only half that battle in that don't we have crappy spring clamps all over the coolant system? Wouldn't the gold standard to make sure these new pipes get connected with screw clamps or is there anything even better? Why oh why did they design it so crap when the car is so good?? Ugh. Am I being harsh? I mean 7 attempts on the water pump? Now modern Mercedes are no better (planned obsolescence) but the later MY W140's were not like this. But, on the other hand no where near as dynamic a car...

 

Spring clamps are not worse than screw clamps for cooling applications. They’re the gold standard in automotive for cost and quality, as they apply constant force. It’s not so much for us as it is the factory. Build 900 vehicles a day and a few ft lbs variance will kill your product quality.

 

Yep, in most (all?) of the car mechanic vid sites I watch (e.g. Rainman Ray) they say that the factory spring clamps are better than screw clamps precisely because they apply even pressure.