Anyone fitted a Dashcam yet?
#21
06-01-2015, 12:01 PM
Senior Member
#22
06-02-2015, 05:59 AM
Senior Member
#24
06-02-2015, 12:14 PM
Senior Member
No need to remove any panels, just take care pushing in the cables in the grooves/ joins, as I mentioned I used a plastic comb to push them in. On the A pillar I just peeled back the rubber and pushed it behind.
Regarding someone trying to steal it, as you can buy these cameras from £30 or so, I think they do not really make the hassle of breaking a window worth while, ( touch wood ), however you were fitting one worth a couple of hundred pounds then it is only a few seconds to actually pop it off the screen, it is only a sucker principle holding it in place.
Regarding someone trying to steal it, as you can buy these cameras from £30 or so, I think they do not really make the hassle of breaking a window worth while, ( touch wood ), however you were fitting one worth a couple of hundred pounds then it is only a few seconds to actually pop it off the screen, it is only a sucker principle holding it in place.
#26
06-02-2015, 03:26 PM
To install as discreetly and as easily as possible.
1) Mount Camera behind rear view mirror. Then to hide wires…
2) Where the roof trim reaches the windscreen (by the rear view mirror) is very loose. Push something in (temporarily) to wedge the gap open a bit (this will make sense in the next step)
3) Choose the door you want to run the wire to… I think the passenger side is easiest.
4) Open Door and pull away the door rubber seal around the edge of the door (It pulls of easily by hand … and is pushed back on just as easily). You only need to pull off the seal from the point you would smack your head when getting into a car… down to the dash board (i.e. 9 o’oclock to 12 o’clock)
5) Next, from the door peer behind the roof trim (from where you have just removed the seal) and if you have got the angle right, you should see a clear route of sunlight to the wedge you put in step 2.
6) Using a stiff bit of wire (coat hanger wire) you should be able to guide it through the channel, then hook your wire to your camera and pull it through.
Note the only danger is you will come across a rolled up airbag. Just ensure any wire you add goes behind the air bag (metal roof side) and not in front of the airbag.
7) With the door seal removed, you will find a simple and obvious path to tuck your wire down the edge of the door and through a gap that takes you nicely to behind the dashboard.
8) You can now replace the door seal and remove wedge. The car will be back to stock with no visible wires.
9) Next on your knee’s and look into the passenger foot well. Under the dash you will find a flimsy cover held in by three plastic lugs. Pull these lugs and pull down the cover to see up behind your dash. With an aid of a torch you will pick up your wire. Feed your wire across to the centre tunnel where you will find it will tuck easily in the join between the carpet and the leather of the centre carpet. You can replace the cover under the dash now.
10) Next turn your attention to the centre console. The side leather panel of the console is quite tight where it touches the carpet. However you can slightly un pop it using your fingers to loosen it up (don’t worry it pops back tight with a push). Once loosened you can feed your cable between the bottom of the leather panel and the carpet. Feed it along until you are approximately directly below where the Cigar lighter is (inside the console)
11) Open up the console and pop off the plastic panel that holds the Cigar lighter / USB. It is help in place by clips that run along the long edge top and bottom cigar lighter panel. You can use a none blunt instrument to lever under the bottom edge to pop it up. It is actually possible to do it by hand with a bit of might. Once off… you will have a bit of slack to pull it out a little with the wires still attached.
12) The next bit is a bit of a fiddle again but get the coat hanger wire and feed down from the cigar lighter, through the centre console to the gap in the leather (where your wire is) and obviously hook your wire and feed through.
13) Finally. Two options here.
The invisible hooking to the power supply… then splice your power into the wires of the cigar lighter (Black Negative – Brown/yellow Positive). Push cigar lighter panel.
The none wiring method… push the cigar panel back in place but leave your wire going through an edge (so it can’t go back fully) but you can plug your power into the cigar lighter as normal.
The Cigar lighter turns off and on with the car power, so is ideal for driving camera but will not work when parked.
The final result it absolutely no visible wiring except for the small bit by the rear view mirror.
1) Mount Camera behind rear view mirror. Then to hide wires…
2) Where the roof trim reaches the windscreen (by the rear view mirror) is very loose. Push something in (temporarily) to wedge the gap open a bit (this will make sense in the next step)
3) Choose the door you want to run the wire to… I think the passenger side is easiest.
4) Open Door and pull away the door rubber seal around the edge of the door (It pulls of easily by hand … and is pushed back on just as easily). You only need to pull off the seal from the point you would smack your head when getting into a car… down to the dash board (i.e. 9 o’oclock to 12 o’clock)
5) Next, from the door peer behind the roof trim (from where you have just removed the seal) and if you have got the angle right, you should see a clear route of sunlight to the wedge you put in step 2.
6) Using a stiff bit of wire (coat hanger wire) you should be able to guide it through the channel, then hook your wire to your camera and pull it through.
Note the only danger is you will come across a rolled up airbag. Just ensure any wire you add goes behind the air bag (metal roof side) and not in front of the airbag.
7) With the door seal removed, you will find a simple and obvious path to tuck your wire down the edge of the door and through a gap that takes you nicely to behind the dashboard.
8) You can now replace the door seal and remove wedge. The car will be back to stock with no visible wires.
9) Next on your knee’s and look into the passenger foot well. Under the dash you will find a flimsy cover held in by three plastic lugs. Pull these lugs and pull down the cover to see up behind your dash. With an aid of a torch you will pick up your wire. Feed your wire across to the centre tunnel where you will find it will tuck easily in the join between the carpet and the leather of the centre carpet. You can replace the cover under the dash now.
10) Next turn your attention to the centre console. The side leather panel of the console is quite tight where it touches the carpet. However you can slightly un pop it using your fingers to loosen it up (don’t worry it pops back tight with a push). Once loosened you can feed your cable between the bottom of the leather panel and the carpet. Feed it along until you are approximately directly below where the Cigar lighter is (inside the console)
11) Open up the console and pop off the plastic panel that holds the Cigar lighter / USB. It is help in place by clips that run along the long edge top and bottom cigar lighter panel. You can use a none blunt instrument to lever under the bottom edge to pop it up. It is actually possible to do it by hand with a bit of might. Once off… you will have a bit of slack to pull it out a little with the wires still attached.
12) The next bit is a bit of a fiddle again but get the coat hanger wire and feed down from the cigar lighter, through the centre console to the gap in the leather (where your wire is) and obviously hook your wire and feed through.
13) Finally. Two options here.
The invisible hooking to the power supply… then splice your power into the wires of the cigar lighter (Black Negative – Brown/yellow Positive). Push cigar lighter panel.
The none wiring method… push the cigar panel back in place but leave your wire going through an edge (so it can’t go back fully) but you can plug your power into the cigar lighter as normal.
The Cigar lighter turns off and on with the car power, so is ideal for driving camera but will not work when parked.
The final result it absolutely no visible wiring except for the small bit by the rear view mirror.
The following users liked this post:
roviw (06-03-2015)
#27
06-03-2015, 01:54 PM
Senior Member
To install as discreetly and as easily as possible.
1) Mount Camera behind rear view mirror. Then to hide wires…
2) Where the roof trim reaches the windscreen (by the rear view mirror) is very loose. Push something in (temporarily) to wedge the gap open a bit (this will make sense in the next step)
3) Choose the door you want to run the wire to… I think the passenger side is easiest.
4) Open Door and pull away the door rubber seal around the edge of the door (It pulls of easily by hand … and is pushed back on just as easily). You only need to pull off the seal from the point you would smack your head when getting into a car… down to the dash board (i.e. 9 o’oclock to 12 o’clock)
5) Next, from the door peer behind the roof trim (from where you have just removed the seal) and if you have got the angle right, you should see a clear route of sunlight to the wedge you put in step 2.
6) Using a stiff bit of wire (coat hanger wire) you should be able to guide it through the channel, then hook your wire to your camera and pull it through.
Note the only danger is you will come across a rolled up airbag. Just ensure any wire you add goes behind the air bag (metal roof side) and not in front of the airbag.
7) With the door seal removed, you will find a simple and obvious path to tuck your wire down the edge of the door and through a gap that takes you nicely to behind the dashboard.
8) You can now replace the door seal and remove wedge. The car will be back to stock with no visible wires.
9) Next on your knee’s and look into the passenger foot well. Under the dash you will find a flimsy cover held in by three plastic lugs. Pull these lugs and pull down the cover to see up behind your dash. With an aid of a torch you will pick up your wire. Feed your wire across to the centre tunnel where you will find it will tuck easily in the join between the carpet and the leather of the centre carpet. You can replace the cover under the dash now.
10) Next turn your attention to the centre console. The side leather panel of the console is quite tight where it touches the carpet. However you can slightly un pop it using your fingers to loosen it up (don’t worry it pops back tight with a push). Once loosened you can feed your cable between the bottom of the leather panel and the carpet. Feed it along until you are approximately directly below where the Cigar lighter is (inside the console)
11) Open up the console and pop off the plastic panel that holds the Cigar lighter / USB. It is help in place by clips that run along the long edge top and bottom cigar lighter panel. You can use a none blunt instrument to lever under the bottom edge to pop it up. It is actually possible to do it by hand with a bit of might. Once off… you will have a bit of slack to pull it out a little with the wires still attached.
12) The next bit is a bit of a fiddle again but get the coat hanger wire and feed down from the cigar lighter, through the centre console to the gap in the leather (where your wire is) and obviously hook your wire and feed through.
13) Finally. Two options here.
The invisible hooking to the power supply… then splice your power into the wires of the cigar lighter (Black Negative – Brown/yellow Positive). Push cigar lighter panel.
The none wiring method… push the cigar panel back in place but leave your wire going through an edge (so it can’t go back fully) but you can plug your power into the cigar lighter as normal.
The Cigar lighter turns off and on with the car power, so is ideal for driving camera but will not work when parked.
The final result it absolutely no visible wiring except for the small bit by the rear view mirror.
1) Mount Camera behind rear view mirror. Then to hide wires…
2) Where the roof trim reaches the windscreen (by the rear view mirror) is very loose. Push something in (temporarily) to wedge the gap open a bit (this will make sense in the next step)
3) Choose the door you want to run the wire to… I think the passenger side is easiest.
4) Open Door and pull away the door rubber seal around the edge of the door (It pulls of easily by hand … and is pushed back on just as easily). You only need to pull off the seal from the point you would smack your head when getting into a car… down to the dash board (i.e. 9 o’oclock to 12 o’clock)
5) Next, from the door peer behind the roof trim (from where you have just removed the seal) and if you have got the angle right, you should see a clear route of sunlight to the wedge you put in step 2.
6) Using a stiff bit of wire (coat hanger wire) you should be able to guide it through the channel, then hook your wire to your camera and pull it through.
Note the only danger is you will come across a rolled up airbag. Just ensure any wire you add goes behind the air bag (metal roof side) and not in front of the airbag.
7) With the door seal removed, you will find a simple and obvious path to tuck your wire down the edge of the door and through a gap that takes you nicely to behind the dashboard.
8) You can now replace the door seal and remove wedge. The car will be back to stock with no visible wires.
9) Next on your knee’s and look into the passenger foot well. Under the dash you will find a flimsy cover held in by three plastic lugs. Pull these lugs and pull down the cover to see up behind your dash. With an aid of a torch you will pick up your wire. Feed your wire across to the centre tunnel where you will find it will tuck easily in the join between the carpet and the leather of the centre carpet. You can replace the cover under the dash now.
10) Next turn your attention to the centre console. The side leather panel of the console is quite tight where it touches the carpet. However you can slightly un pop it using your fingers to loosen it up (don’t worry it pops back tight with a push). Once loosened you can feed your cable between the bottom of the leather panel and the carpet. Feed it along until you are approximately directly below where the Cigar lighter is (inside the console)
11) Open up the console and pop off the plastic panel that holds the Cigar lighter / USB. It is help in place by clips that run along the long edge top and bottom cigar lighter panel. You can use a none blunt instrument to lever under the bottom edge to pop it up. It is actually possible to do it by hand with a bit of might. Once off… you will have a bit of slack to pull it out a little with the wires still attached.
12) The next bit is a bit of a fiddle again but get the coat hanger wire and feed down from the cigar lighter, through the centre console to the gap in the leather (where your wire is) and obviously hook your wire and feed through.
13) Finally. Two options here.
The invisible hooking to the power supply… then splice your power into the wires of the cigar lighter (Black Negative – Brown/yellow Positive). Push cigar lighter panel.
The none wiring method… push the cigar panel back in place but leave your wire going through an edge (so it can’t go back fully) but you can plug your power into the cigar lighter as normal.
The Cigar lighter turns off and on with the car power, so is ideal for driving camera but will not work when parked.
The final result it absolutely no visible wiring except for the small bit by the rear view mirror.
#28
07-30-2018, 04:02 AM
Junior Member
I’ve recently had Halfords fit a Nextbase 512 dashcam and associated rear facing additional cam that records front and rear footage simultaneously. The feed for the main camera was taken from the fuse box between the rear seats. The cables were then routed behind the pillar trim, down along the rear and front passenger side door trim up the front pillar and behind the front of the headlining towards the rear view mirror where the main camera sits. The footage is 1440p so very clear, and the files on the dashcam are easy to download should you need to. Fitting was only £30 which included the fitting kit worth £20 so effectively only £10 to fit it. Why would you fit it yourself. Chris at Halfords Lichfield did a great professional job of fitting it. Win-win!
#29
07-30-2018, 08:26 AM
Veteran Member
Many "accidents" happen in a parking lot where some careless person cannot be bothered to maneuver properly around your car and sideswipes it and then drives off.
So I use portable batteries to power all three of my camera installations when the car ignition is off in a parking lot.
I have front view, rear view, and side to side view.
So I use portable batteries to power all three of my camera installations when the car ignition is off in a parking lot.
I have front view, rear view, and side to side view.
#30
10-31-2021, 07:12 AM
Why a dash cam?
This is to answer PolarisNavyXJ’s question! In an accident, when it’s just your word vs. the other driver, it’s considered an unbiased witness!
I was pulling out early in the morning; Looking left, traffic was 5-6 blocks back. As I pulled out & moved to the left lane I felt impact. NO HEADLIGHTS in my mirror OR MY FACE as my XJ was spun the opposite direction. I had begun turning left when I was hit on my (U.S.) driver’s side behind the rear wheel.
For whatever reason the responding officer (Who NEVER saw the vehicle positions before they were required to be moved.) believed the truck who hit me claiming to only be going the speed limit (45 mph) and had ‘slammed on the brakes and skidded to avoid me.’
Except NO ONE had been in the right lane and there were NO SKID MARKS on the road. I am certain he was WELL ABOVE THE SPEED LIMIT (While waiting for police to finalize report traffic sped by 10-20 mph OVER posted speed EVEN THOUGH PATROL CARS WERE RIGHT THERE!) as he said he was ‘going to work’ except he lived 25 miles away and never said how much further he was going! (I know many decades ago I ONLY had a TEN MILE commute and I DEFINITELY SPED every day!)
If I had a dash cam or if our backup cameras could’ve been wired to record whenever we drive or parking sensors detect something; I could prove he was most likely speeding, probably didn’t see me as he wasn’t paying attention (There was no sound before being hit.) and maybe even had his headlights off.
My insurance will pay for repairs but the officer decided I was to blame. So a dash cam could’ve said otherwise.
I was pulling out early in the morning; Looking left, traffic was 5-6 blocks back. As I pulled out & moved to the left lane I felt impact. NO HEADLIGHTS in my mirror OR MY FACE as my XJ was spun the opposite direction. I had begun turning left when I was hit on my (U.S.) driver’s side behind the rear wheel.
For whatever reason the responding officer (Who NEVER saw the vehicle positions before they were required to be moved.) believed the truck who hit me claiming to only be going the speed limit (45 mph) and had ‘slammed on the brakes and skidded to avoid me.’
Except NO ONE had been in the right lane and there were NO SKID MARKS on the road. I am certain he was WELL ABOVE THE SPEED LIMIT (While waiting for police to finalize report traffic sped by 10-20 mph OVER posted speed EVEN THOUGH PATROL CARS WERE RIGHT THERE!) as he said he was ‘going to work’ except he lived 25 miles away and never said how much further he was going! (I know many decades ago I ONLY had a TEN MILE commute and I DEFINITELY SPED every day!)
If I had a dash cam or if our backup cameras could’ve been wired to record whenever we drive or parking sensors detect something; I could prove he was most likely speeding, probably didn’t see me as he wasn’t paying attention (There was no sound before being hit.) and maybe even had his headlights off.
My insurance will pay for repairs but the officer decided I was to blame. So a dash cam could’ve said otherwise.
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