Hello, maybe somebody has experience/ideas, car is eating fully charged battery over night or even faster.
What I have tried this far -
1. At first I tought it is bad battery, so I changed battery first, but next day it also was drained.
2. Car has been locked, remote key is far enough to let all blocks be asleep
3. Have checked for interrior lights - they are not glowing or anything else visible with eye.
4. Did parasitic draw test - putted a tester in battery circuit, all four door, trunk and hood locks are locked, car locked with a remonte. After 40+ minutes, tester shows that car is draining approx. 6-7 amps. Took out all fuses one by one (under hood, rear seat, trunk), but nothing seems to be changing. What should I try next, might it be bad alternator? Or something else connected to battery without fuse? Thank you!
X351, 3.0d., 2011, RHD, VIN xxxxxxxxxxxx-17469

 

xj351, I would start with making sure that all the power ports are empty. Leaving stuff in those can cause a large draw like you are seeing. This will include the OBD port under the dash and the USB port in the center console. After that, what wiring mods have you done and what extra electronics have you added to the car?

As for the 6-7 amp draw, just having the door open do your tests could pull this amount of current. There are a ton of lights and computers controlling all of them. This car can pull up to 30 amps just by having the car "getting ready" to be started. So, seeing what you are seeing is not uncommon as far as the amp pull. Yes, you have a problem wtih something pulling power when the car should be off.

Based on that current draw, if I had to take a guess as to what is the issue, I would be looking at the dash fan. But, lets see what the answers are to the above questions so we can start eliminating things.

 

Well you are doing the right thing!
But as you have found chasing down these parasitic draws can be a real pain.
You need to disconnect each circuit and in doing that the car is woken back up and you now have ANOTHER 45 minute+ wait to do the next circuit.

If your still having that large of a drain I don't think your getting the car to go to sleep?
Can you post exactly how you are reading the current? The whole setup? How long are you waiting? I have seen at least 45 minutes before it all shuts down.
I ask because I had to buy a clamp on ammeter than can read down to .001 A or 1 ma. This is required and now there are a number of them out there.

You want a clamp on meter because of the difficulty of properly inserting the conventional meter into the circuit plus the big danger of blowing up your meter because ALL the current for the car must pass through the meter. The clamp on meters eliminate all that.

The second problem is you need to setup the meter up so that the car can shut down and go to sleep. What I do is open the trunk put the clamp on meter on and wait. Now with the XJ I have found there is an automatic closing of the trunk if it's left open. This does not always happen but I think it is suppose to. I block the trunk lid open with a stick so it can't close very far. I can read the meter without touching anything as the car is very sensitive and will not go to sleep for the least little thing.

Off subject BUT if I was to purchase a meter today I would really consider one that has BT? This would be so great for this type of work too. I have only seen a few and don't know much about them and also don't know if you can find one with that low 1 ma reading ability?

One last thing? Is there any aftermarket stuff installed? Cameras, radar detectors, aftermarket stereo stuff? Anything plugged into the cigarette lighters for your phone? How far from the car are the key FOBS? Are you locking the car? Locking and then pushing the lock button again should get you 2 beeps of the horn to signify the car is locked. I prefer to do current draw testing this way. Seems to help the car enter shut down and power off easier?

This is such a big problem that Jaguar released a technical document on their method with suggestions plus it has a nice big chart and you will see most cars should be in the 30ma-50ma range or less. Again note that small amount of current which leads back to my suggestion to get a clamp on ammeter that will read down to 1 ma. Do note Jaguar has you wait 60 minutes minimum for the car to shut down before testing for current drains. I have attached this document.

I see you have Diesel and you did not say where your at but since the US did not get the Diesels you must NOT be in the US.
I use this meter and it's gone up now to almost $200!

It's a tool you will NOT regret buying!
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Thank you for your answer, Thermo!
OBD port, USB port or anything like that is empty. Also no extra/aftermarket mods currently is connected.
Also all locks has been locked with two clicks, so car thinks that everything is closed and car locks without beep sounds.
Interesting guess about dash fan, but shouldnt fan be dissconected in some moment, when I did unplug fuses one by one?
Also by this time I have disconnected alternator, but nothing, still pulls 6-7 amps.
Maybe some control module?
Thank you!

 

Well there must be more circuits you did not disconnect? You still had the drain?
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Hard to tell what I did disconnet, but im sure I tried all fuses. There is 3 locations, in trunk, boot and behind rear seat, right?
Today I had a chance to read a error codes, what I found is code b11ed-87, in service manual it says:
''Electric Heater Control - Missing message LIN network fault. Electric heater module fault. Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the power and ground supplies to the electric heater module. Check the LIN circuits. Repair and wiring harness faults, clear the DTC and retest the system. If the DTC resets suspect the electric heater module, refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a module is suspect''

So right now i`m looking for electric heater module and its fuse and relay.
Also I have found on forum connector guide what I have attached, ''C2H101A'' is a connector attached to the climate control module, and there is a grounding ''G2D115AS'', im thinking maybe bad grounding might couse battery drain?
Maybe someone knows location for climate control module fuse and relay? Thank you!

 

Again you have a Diesel which were never sold in the US so we never saw these electric heaters? I have no experience with them.
One suggestion is when you have so much to check is to disconnect the large power cable from the junction box. The car has 3 junction boxes and doing this would at least show you which JB has the drain.

Did you clear the code and does it come back?
Can you disconnect the heater and check for a drain?
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Finnaly have found something - when this 150M megafuse in trunk is disconnected, my 6amps drain disappears.
Now will try to understand where it goes, any ideas?
thank you!

 

Somehow I cant post pictures without accept from moderators, but I did found the issue.
It is 150V megafuse in trunk, it leads to electric heater booster.
Thank you for your help, guys!

 

I think you are getting close now!
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