All, are the black package pieces (those that are chrome on a standard XJ) a painted piece or is there some other treatment applied to these pieces? I am asking as I am contemplating my options on how I want to go forward with my car. I am looking to get rid of all the bright silver chrome and convert it over to either a black chrome (would end up being a dark gray but very shiny) or going to a similar dark gray painted piece. I guess my question is going to define which way I jump. I know how to make the chrome come off of the plastic pieces, but it is a very labor intensive process. So, spending some money on good used parts or simply buying the black package pieces is a consideration.

This just leaves me with 2 unknowns:

1) can chromed plastic pieces be redipped/chromed using a conventional process or is there something special that needs to be done?

2) accessing the inside of the headlights to apply some treatment there to get rid of the bright silver without having to cut the back of the headlight off.

 

Thermo, we have done several "chrome delete" packages at my shop. From our standpoint it is more cost effective to just purchase new emblems and words ("Range Rover" & "Porsche" rear lettering comes to mind) rather than try and remove the old adhesive from the emblems. Bigger pieces are way easier to clean and prep. Use fishing line instead of a pry tool to remove from your car and it will help save your paint. If you decide to use any of your current emblems use adhesive promoter on the emblem before applying the double sided tape (do not use promoter on your car or you will never get the tape off if you ever have to take off the emblem). All of the removable chrome pieces are easy to change color but we leave the window trim on and send the car to paint and that is the most costly part of the job. We offer to wrap the window trim as a way of cutting down cost and it looks very nice but at the end of the day it is just a sticker and won't give you a factory look. Probably more important on black than your using of gray, but because dealers now sell lots of emblems in black just make sure you have everything the same finish. All dealer emblems we have bought are high gloss and lots of my clients want semi-gloss or matte finish. I would hate for you to do the emblems yourself and have someone else paint or wrap the window trim and end up with different finishes. Make sure you allow the prep agent plenty of time to dry before painting or you will be doing it all over again next weekend.
You can have the plastic pieces re-chromed but again I would think the price of doing this might outweigh just buying new ones. If you do have anything chromed make sure you see examples of the work first and know that 7-10 days is a usual turnaround on something like that.
I don't think that there is a possible way to get rid of the silver in the headlight without taking apart. And nearly all headlights that have been taken apart end up fogging up from moisture at some time.
Hope this helps and if I can help in any way please let me know.

 

Z20, yes, that is helpful. When it comes to the converting between the silver chrome and the dark gray look, I am really contemplating 2 processes. The more expensive path (but the more durable way too) is to send the pieces out to be re-dipped. I just wasn't sure if you could truely do the plastic pieces that way. The other option was to use more of a translucent (think stained glass paint) over the silver chrome to darken it.

As for the work, I will be doing everything myself except for the re-dipping. But, I will be pulling all the pieces off if I go that way. If I paint things, then I will be painting themself so I know the quality of work that was done.

 

Something that we have done to several cars that looks unique and would keep your cost way down is to do the same process as "tinting" tail lights. To do the lights our painter just adds a drop of black into the clear and sprays the lights (more black=darker lights). I usually tell him how dark to go from 1-10. He has done chrome emblems, grllles etc at a 4 or 5 and they come out looking very nice. It has a black chrome look but doesn't have the iridescent look that black chrome has. It tones down the chrome but if the light hits it you can tell it is chrome. The people that have seen it like the look and prefer to have that done over just black. And it is cheap to do. You can always take any old scrap emblem and see if you like the way it turns out to get an idea. I'll see if I can find any pics of cars we have done that way. Just an thought of something that might work for you.

 

Z20, I am always looking for something "new and different". I guess I like having vehicles that while they look fairly stock, you know that there have been touches done that have changed its looks. But, at the same time, you are not sure what has been done.

I just happen to have a spare Leaper sitting around my house. May have to give the clear/black a shot as I will be buying some black for my car for when I add the chin and rear spoilers to my car (ordered from Mina Gallery). Guess I will have a lot of masking to do so I don't get overspray on my car.

Out of curiosity, does your painter use an air brush to do things like the trim and whatnot or does he simply use a full blown spray gun? I have both. I am thinking the air brush is going to be a bit more controllable for things like the trim around the windows if I am leaving the trim on the car. I am thinking most of the other stuff is going to come off the car to ensure I can get a nice and even color.

 

I agree the subtle details make a difference and are fun to do. It's always nice when people notice and mention that it must've been an option from Jaguar they didn't know about. Makes it hard to hide the smile, lol. I use 2 painters. Main guy is a retired guy that specializes in pinstriping motorcycles and hot rods and he does all of the smaller pieces from wheels on down and uses an airbrush. Because he doesn't have a paint booth big enough for a car I use a different painter that is use to painting entire cars and has a few big paint booths for bigger jobs He uses a paint gun for the trim because it is what he is most comfortable using. I would assume an airbrush would be way easier to control and reduce overspray. And there doesn't seem to be a noticeable difference in either way.

 

Z20, I think I am going to go the airbrush route then. Much more comfortable with the air brush when it comes to the detail stuff. Probably use the spray gun for the spoilers since there is lots of area to cover with those. Besides, the air brush is a bit easier to touch up any uneven spots when doing the tinted clear to ensure a smooth application of color.

 

I've never tried to paint anything but I agree with your logic. I will say, I'm told that one drop of black in the clear (not sure how much clear) goes along ways. So remember its way easier to go darker than lighter, lol. Also, when we tint chrome pieces it looks way different in natural light than inside under the shop lights. I'm curious how it turns out so please let me know.

 

Z20, Oh, i plan on documenting the whole thing. I have some tint for doing the taillights (just in case the cops give me grief). But the chrome should be fairly easy to do and doing the rims should not be too much of a problem other than finding a shade of gray that is close to what the chrome turns out being.

Granted, I am contemplating a little customization and taking the leaper on the trunk and adding a very small red LED to the eye of the leaper. I would then wire it up to the running lights. That way the kitty would have a some red eyes.

 

Thermo I will tell you that laying any sort of film on your tail lights is very frustrating and nearly impossible to do without any bubbles. I think you would be much happier with the clear/drop or two of black technique. I believe most states have about a 100 yard of visibility law and with the led lights in the tails that is no problem even with fairly dark tinted lights. Plus it will save you from pulling your hair out trying to lay film on such a curved surface.

 

Z20, you don't know me too well then. I love challenges. Besides, if the tint doesn't work out, then I will simply rip it off and go to the paint idea.