I was at Discount Tire on Friday getting new tires and they informed me that one of the lug nuts had broken due to rust and they could not get that wheel off! I for life of me can not think of how to get this off without taking it to a dealer (or some other shop) to have it drilled out. Has anyone else had this happen and/or what can I do to get it off? The clear coat on the rim is already damaged and I don't want to damage it more but then again I don't want the dealer ripping me off if it is something I could do myself.

I have attached a pic, any ideas? (Oh and its not rust in there, its a reflection/bad pic and my wheels are just really dirty!)

 

I had a lug nut become stuck on my 04 XJ a few months after buying the car new. The dealer ended up chiseling the nut off with only one tiny mar to the wheel. The other option is to use a bi-metal hole saw that is just larger than the lug to cut away the remains of the lug nut. The stud is hardened, so you will not be drilling that out. Once the wheel is off, it is easy to pop out and replace the stud, should it have become damaged in the process.

 

When I was a kid working at a gas station, a friend came in because she lost the key to the locking lug nut. The other gas station tried chiseling off the lug nut and DESTROYED the wheel! They didn't even get the locking lug nut off. I grabbed a 12 point socket that was slightly smaller than the locking lug nut and pounded it on. Grabbed the air gun and took it off in 5 seconds. You need to use a 12 point socket and be prepared to toss the socket afterwards. (If you can't get the old lug out of the socket)

You wouldn't believe how many people lose their locking lug nut keys.
Hope this helps

 

This is a well-known issue on the S Type and Lincoln LS forums. Tons of threads and replacement lug nut part numbers. When you do get it fixed please replace ALL of the crappy two piece lug nuts.

You are lucky it happened in a shop because people have had this on the side of the road when they got a flat tire. Then you have a much bigger problem.

This is a warning to all Jaguar owners with these crappy factory two piece lug nuts. They have a sheet metal cover that distorts until it rounds off or shears off like yours.
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Thanks mate for the suggestion. What do you recommend replacing all of the lug nuts with? Thanks in advance!

 

Assuming they are the same as the S Type nuts you can check here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...g-nuts-136468/ for some info and part numbers.

 

Thanks Norri!

There are many threads but that one is pretty good. Turns out there are a number of different options. I went with the Dorman lug nuts. They work perfectly even after 5 years and 90K miles BUT they are not stainless steel.

I am not in a salt area but even so I now have some rust on the edges of the lug nuts. It's not bad but it is visible. There are solid SS lug nuts available and if I did it again I would use those.
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+1 I have Dorman nuts and even in Phoenix there is some rust showing.

 

There is a little-known tool specifically designed to grasp a "locked" wheel nut, when the lock key is lost. My local Tire Factory (OR) has it. It is a toothed and tapered socket which fits over the wheel nut and is first driven on with a hammer. Then, not using an air wrench, the wheel nut is twisted off.
In my case the dealer mistakenly used an air wrench to loosen wheel locks (with key). The air wrench destroyed the key.

 

Those may or may not work.

The problem is the factory lug nut is two piece. The crappy sheet metal cover can turn on the lug nut itself. So those hammer on sockets that work on one piece wheel locks are not so good on two piece lug nuts.
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Did the dealer compensate you for this mishap?

 

When the lug nut breaks the only thing to do is to drill out the stud and release the wheel. I've done this before and it only takes a few minutes to do. It's far and away the better method for removing the nut. Anything else and you will ruin the wheel. There is no need to destroy a $400 wheel over a $2 stud. If you don't have access to hardened industrial drill bits to use on the stud, then you can use regular bits and drill the remains of the nut next to the stud, one hole on each side. That should be enough to break the lug nut in half. Careful that you don't drill too deep if you do this, make a tape mark on the bit at the thickness of the nut. Either way, the stud is going to be ruined.

At the end of the day the stud and nut are going to have to be replaced. Drill them out, save the wheel. THEN install the nut properly using some anti-seize and a torque wrench. NEVER install the lug nuts with an impact wrench, ANY nut, not just the two piece Jag type.

 

But, be aware that when lubricant of any type is used on a threaded
fastener, the torque spec must be adjusted downwards.

There are reference tables published by fastener vendors.

This is not a argument against lubricants on wheel studs.

I usually use engine oil wiped from the dipstick. Never have
to go looking for anti-seize.

 

For lug nuts, my 2003 xk8 64k miles has original lug nuts that are rusted and have a thin metal cover that gets distorted making it hard to put the socket wrench on it. And, the inside of the cover and nut are rusted. The lock nut is made by McGard patent no. 466 400 0. It is not rusted and is made of thicker metal (chrome?)

The shop had to hammer on a different sized socket to remove the rusted and distorted one.