Hello dear friends,

I've imported a car with flood damage from the USA to Germany.

Now, after 2 weeks of repairs, the car starts and runs for the first time. The test drive was also very positive.

However, I've noticed that the car won't go to sleep and is draining the battery. After just 1 hour, the display shows the classic low battery warning. You can hear the car making sounds as if the ignition is turned on, and the red P light on the gear selector blinks.

I've checked the fault codes, and there is an active fault:
B12E2-23 Microswitch for the rear door handle - inside.

Is it possible that this is the issue I've been looking for? What do I need to do to repair this? There is no other information provided, such as left or right side.

Best regards,
Tim

 

In high possibility that the door handle keep your vehicle awake. Door handles does really wake systems up, so the actual startup will be faster. Somehow i have an feeling that the microswitch for the inside handle are on actual door lock assembly, where handles are linked by cables. Full instruction how to remove the door card and access to the door lock unit is in X351 Service and Repair manual available from Sticky section of this forum. Because you have flooded vehicle i think it will be great help for you. There are also wiring and connector locations documents available. For sure will be big help. (Big respect, your ***** must be stainless steel: I would not touch an flooded vehicle, exept maybe some 1960-1980 where electrics were level of bulb and 2 wires )

Edit: On second though: It sounds that your main power relay is permanently On. If i remember right its located in central junction box, behind of rear centre arm rest.

 

Thank you for your response. I will think about how to bridge the error. I already have one idea, perhaps I will disconnect the control units in the door, thus no longer generating a wake-up signal. Then maybe I can narrow down the error. But still, I wouldn't know where that particular microswitch is located and what I need to replace for it.

It's quite strange that I don't get precise information from the control unit about which side the switch is on.

Furthermore, I also have errors from the gear shift module and the chassis control module. I don't know if these errors are simply a consequence of the constant presence of a wake-up signal or if they are actually the problems themselves.

U300A-64 Ignitionswitch
U300A-62 Ignitionswitch
B1142-62 Ignition state 1
P084F-15 output circuit switch park/neutral

As a precaution, I have replaced the main power relay in the rear with a new one, but no difference.

Very confusing stuff here, but what else could I have expected...

 

Those are symptoms I would expect from a flood car?
Have you ever worked on a flood car? Was it running when flooded or just parked?
Was it flooded with fresh or salt water? How far under did the car go? Was the engine,transmission,rear end full of water?
What was done after the flooding? If you catch the car as it's pulled from the water then the best action is to remove all the interior you can and then flush the entire car with as much fresh water as possible. And I mean a LOT of fresh water!

I lived on the Gulf Coast of the US for 14 years and have seen many, many flood cars. The damage will just keep growing with time. You have exactly zero knowledge of how far and deep the damage has gone? Or more importantly when it will stop!
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Hi,

Thanks for adding more info. This might sound funny, but obiosly you have been working hard and long with your XJ and then there is possibility that you don´t see the obious.
Well, follow this:
- Your power is On all the time. -> What are your power switch?
Yes, its ignition switch !! Aaand you have error on ignition switch!! It even report the Ignition state 1. (power On, Engine not running) It might be that your ignition button are internally "pressed" all the time by moisture (shorting) or some part of it? i don´t know if it have multible contacts?
Also if i remember right there are an switch to detect if the transmission emergency "neutral" is enaged from the central console? This is propably done when your vehicle have been needed to move without power and the release need to be set back again before use. (or the switch/wiring is defect)

What reader you use? Most readers give you "basic" error info. With JLR SDD you might get more accurate info of the error codes?

 

Thank you for your contributions. The vehicle was parked when the flood came. The mixture of fresh and saltwater rose approximately up to the floor mats and the spare tire well, so the main electronics in the trunk were not damaged. First, I removed the carpet from the interior and dried the vehicle with heaters, simultaneously repairing all the electronics under the carpet.

The result is very good, and you can hardly tell that the vehicle had suffered damage.

The ignition switch is fully functional. It turns on the ignition, starts the engine, and visibly turns off the ignition. The speedometer and radio turn off. However, you can still hear the throttle body and various control units, as well as the flashing "P" of the gear selector.

Since I only have an aftermarket diagnostic tool, I will contact a Jaguar dealer who can diagnose the car and maybe provide more information about the issues. Unfortunately, I haven't made any progress regarding the sleep mode problem yet.

It really hurts to always have to disconnect the battery. But the effort is worth it for a 2016 XJL R.

 

Keep at it!
Your working thru the problems and it was not submerged so maybe the damage will be minimal?
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The are multiple switches in the door. Only the ones in the door handle are serviceable, and I would be surprised if you can buy them separately.
They are not easy to access. You literally need to remove the door latch and soft-close motor first.
The soft-close can be disconnected and removed, but the latch mechanism and handle come-out together.
I have a 2016 XJL, and was able to remove all three by loosing the window vertical rail.
I think you can remove the elec plug from the latch-lock motor (the easiest one to access) and the door will operate manually.
Then remove the main plug to the handle, and see if the error message changes. Good luck.


close switch

engage switch



Soft-close at top, door jam latch mechanism on left, and handle

 

The micro switch in the door handle was stuck on in my XJ. Just buy a second hand one off eBay like I did, remove the switch from the handles and swap over (if the paint colour doesn't match) and you're good to go. Fault codes with "U xxxx" are network fault codes which can be troublesome to narrow down as interconnected modules can throw up this code but not actually be the culprit. l definitely doff my hat to you as these cars are horrific for electrical gremlins, let alone one that's been flooded! Some good SDD diagnostic software would definitely be a big help to you in this situation I feel 👍

 

Hello my friends,

I've delved further into the car.

First, I pursued my initial plan, disconnecting the rear two doors completely from power and the CAN by pulling the plug in the B pillar.
That didn't help, as the car didn't go to sleep either, now indicating that both doors are open. As the next step, I measured the power consumption.
It's precisely 5.5A drawn through the battery cable with igniton off, locked and the key far away.

To narrow down the issue, I removed one fuse after another from the thick distribution unit in the trunk, see picture. With the marked fuse, there was a measurable difference noted. The power consumption dropped significantly to 0.2A, which is considered a good value. Since everything still works inside the car with the fuse removed, could I exclude the door contact switches, right?




Now the question is how to proceed. The fuse seems to be for the engine, transmission, chassis, etc. Since there's a CAN communication error U0001-87 stored in the ABS and steering gear, I suspect the problem lies in the communication between the steering gear and the CAN system.

Only the ESP lamp is lit in the vehicle, ABS works. ESP only works if values are sent from the steering gear, correct? The steering gear is also working, but it seems to me that the control unit is defective due to the flood. Maybe this is also a reason why the car doesn't go to sleep?

Next week I'm going to Jaguar, hopefully they can determine more than I can.

 

Great troubleshooting and flood cars are just so hard to fix!
Yes the SDD readings would be very useful.

Hopefully not to expensive as you mentioned taking it to Jaguar? Your in Germany from your post but in the US Jaguar is actively turning down current Jaguar owners and won't work on used cars? Yours is a 2016 so maybe still new enough but if the car is 10 years old we have a number of reports that the dealers here in the US won't touch them at all? The Jaguar dealer network is being dismantled in the US and my dealer is now only LR.

Hate to suggest this? But from what you have posted you will be far ahead to get your own operating SDD setup. It has proven it's worth to me over and over despite being difficult to install and use.
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I recommend you also the JLR SDD (Symptom Driven Diagnostic) Its bit difficult to work with, but if example Volvo VIDA is familar to you, its pretty much same.
Could be that you only need to make Full Vehicle reset with SDD. (no, its not same than removing battery terminals and shorting them: Actually i never recommend do that, because it can sent high peak to the circuits)
Vehicle Reset by SDD will sent reset command to all systems and nodes and reinitialize every node when waking up again.

 

Thanks much Vasara! Can you explain about the SDD full vehicle reset? I would like to know more about it if possible?
Have not heard or done that before. Sounds very useful too.
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The full vehicle reset is one function you can execute from the "Recommendations" function list. (scroll down the list, cant remember what section it is..)
Tried it first time after one local XJ owner had weird issue after he changed the battery. When he shut down the vehicle the ECM was still on even car sit 20min with doors locked. High pitch noise from injectors and instrument cluster backlight stay on even screen itself was black. No DTC:s etc. Just shooting in the air by seeking something to try by SDD. Spotted the Full vehicle reset and after we executed it without knowing what it does, all was sorted out. (yes, he did try the battery terminal trick without help before we connected my SDD)

 

Vasara great info and I am on the hunt.
That's what I needed that it's in recommendations tab as a lot of stuff is.
I would be afraid to reset everything but that sounds like a great option.
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One note: Even this function does not reset "everything" Exsample transmission learning, injectors, air con flap limits/ranges, gas pedal range, fuel trims, EGR(s) limit/ranges ... etc.. etc...are not reseted, so there are not needed to relearn any after reset. After i found this function i have done it regulary during service.
When we executed it we were bit afraid what kind of mess we wll create, but we took brave pill, duck cover, close our eyes and hit the button.

 

Glad to hear you took a hit for the team to find this out! I would have been to scared to mess with it until I could find out what happens.
Can this possibly be used to "wake up" a dead or non-responding module?
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Vasara I have been looking and is this what I need?





It was right in front of me all along!
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Yes! Thats the one.
Its easy to miss from the list.

 

Thanks again and regards!
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