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Thanks, Robert. I'm sure that you had well over 50K miles on your XJ when Hennessy switched to the 0W-20, and as you suspect the wear damage had already been done. I don't do anywhere near the driving that you do, and have under 45K miles. I open the window when I first start the car (when cold) and listen for the telltale noise, and fortunately it's still quiet. I need to check my paperwork and see which viscosity Hennessy used for my last oil change. If it's the 5W-20, I'll change it now to the 0W-20, even though I'm not due for an oil change until November. Because I'm out of warranty and don't have an extended service contract, I'll use an indy and the Liqui-Moly LR 0W-20 since it meets the STJLR.51.5122 spec and is less expensive than the Castrol. Hopefully, that better flow at cold start will prolong the life of the pin ("button") that causes the tensioner failure. Time will tell.
Stuart
Okay, so looking back at all the services I’ve had done so far in my last 7 months of ownership, the bill is insane. Obviously most is labor and jacked up parts prices. Therefore I’m now thinking I’d like to do as much of this myself, but not sure how realistic it is.
I think I could do the supercharger job myself, but probably not the timing chain...etc. Can these jobs be done separately? If so I’ll start tackling the supercharger ASAP. If not, then what’s the point? Thanks
You can definitely do the supercharger yourself and not need any special tools other than a jig to help pull the alignment dowels. Once you have the supercharger off you can drag the car to your shop of choice and let them do the timing chain. You could probably do the timing chain yourself but it will require special tools, a shop manual and a lot of patience.
My chain is starting to rattle a little during cold start-up. So I will definitely need to get it done soon.
I called up my independent shop Monday, and they are going to help me out with costs as I have been such a heavy user of their services. They let me buy all the parts and they will do everything (supercharger isolator, snout, s/c oil, pcv valves, coolant tubes/ connectors, timing chains, guides, tensioners) for 18 hours (a ~6 hour discount).
They noted that they only use 0w-20 oil now on all X351s unless a customer insists on something else.
Also they suggested getting the whole valve cover which includes gaskets and pcv. Not sure exactly what part that is yet, but he said it is better and cheaper to do it that way then buying stuff separately. Comments/ thoughts?
I am going to do this in early July. Hopefully the car makes it till then. Fingers crossed.
My chain is starting to rattle a little during cold start-up. So I will definitely need to get it done soon.
I called up my independent shop Monday, and they are going to help me out with costs as I have been such a heavy user of their services. They let me buy all the parts and they will do everything (supercharger isolator, snout, s/c oil, pcv valves, coolant tubes/ connectors, timing chains, guides, tensioners) for 18 hours (a ~6 hour discount).
They noted that they only use 0w-20 oil now on all X351s unless a customer insists on something else.
Also they suggested getting the whole valve cover which includes gaskets and pcv. Not sure exactly what part that is yet, but he said it is better and cheaper to do it that way then buying stuff separately. Comments/ thoughts?
I am going to do this in early July. Hopefully the car makes it till then. Fingers crossed.
The PCV's are external and easily replaced without removal of the valve cover. Unless its damaged there's no need to replace the valve cover at all.
The PCV's are external and easily replaced without removal of the valve cover. Unless its damaged there's no need to replace the valve cover at all.
I really don’t know much about the process, but I think he said something about removing the valve cover to lock timing in for removal of the timing chains and other timing bits. He said it was the “proper way” to do it. I may be mixing up details because it was a lot to take in when I’ve never opened it up. I assume you change all the gaskets if you remove the cover. I think his point was that after buying all the gaskets and the pcv (which should be changed anyway), the cost is almost the same as buying a whole new cover. So I could just get the cover and I won’t have to buy a bunch of parts independently for $10 difference.
Let me know if my understanding is way off. If it is, I’m sure it’s on my end as the mechanic is pretty trustworthy. He’s even offered to lend me his tools and advice if I ever want to do stuff myself. Thanks.
I really don’t know much about the process, but I think he said something about removing the valve cover to lock timing in for removal of the timing chains and other timing bits. He said it was the “proper way” to do it. I may be mixing up details because it was a lot to take in when I’ve never opened it up. I assume you change all the gaskets if you remove the cover. I think his point was that after buying all the gaskets and the pcv (which should be changed anyway), the cost is almost the same as buying a whole new cover. So I could just get the cover and I won’t have to buy a bunch of parts independently for $10 difference.
Let me know if my understanding is way off. If it is, I’m sure it’s on my end as the mechanic is pretty trustworthy. He’s even offered to lend me his tools and advice if I ever want to do stuff myself. Thanks.
Gotcha...makes sense. They definitely have to remove the valve covers so if he's able to get a complete new cover for only a $10 difference that would definitely be the way to go. I was assuming he was trying to tell you that you needed to change your valve covers versus just the PCV's which sounded like he was gouging you. But if he has access to new valve covers for just a few bucks over cost of gaskets and PCV's then by all by all means that's the better deal.
The PVC is integrated into the right {passenger side] valve cover. Can some one tell me what the the oil viscosity has to do with the tensioner mechanical locking system failing on some tensioners?
The PVC is integrated into the right {passenger side] valve cover. Can some one tell me what the the oil viscosity has to do with the tensioner mechanical locking system failing on some tensioners?
I think the goal is to increase the oil pressure as fast as possible to allow the oil pressure to take over the control of the tensioners. In agreement with this, people have shown that the chain rattle gets worse if you open up the oil cap. This should reduce the amount of time the ratchet mechanism is responsible for maintaining tension. Hopefully this also results in less premature failures.
I have cut a tensioner piston apart there is a round clip that is designed to lock in a series of detents this is the mechanical lock that holds the piston, when there is no oil pressure.The tensioner piston slams back into housing and locks its self in a collapsed position.This happens on start up the first revolutions before the oil gets to pressure and extend the piston the thinner oil might get to the piston faster. The design of the tensioner is the problem There should be recall on all 2011 to 2015 Jags.
I have cut a tensioner piston apart there is a round clip that is designed to lock in a series of detents this is the mechanical lock that holds the piston, when there is no oil pressure.The tensioner piston slams back into housing and locks its self in a collapsed position.This happens on start up the first revolutions before the oil gets to pressure and extend the piston the thinner oil might get to the piston faster. The design of the tensioner is the problem There should be recall on all 2011 to 2015 Jags.
Did you take any pics when you cut them open? If so would you mind posting them for us to see?
Here are some photos. You can see the round circlip type spring lock, and the detents cut in the lower section of the piston. When the tensioner is installed there is a space between the tensioner piston and the chain of 3/8. after puling the pin to extend the piston rotating the crank 2 times the space increased to 7/16.This designed space is to large. when the piston detent lock fails the space is large enough for the chain to skip the teeth on the cam bending the valves.When i built my tensioners the space i left was 1/8. There is one photo of my tensioner installed .
Okay all I think my parts list is nearing completion (see list below). I could use a little help with the asterisked items.
1) Is the left valve cover part right for a supercharged XJL 2010? I see it listed as correct for the non-supercharged 2010 XJL.
2) Is the throttle body hose part number correct? It seems to be an updated number from what was posted elsewhere.
3) Indie shop suggested I also get a supercharger plenum gasket. Is that the right part? For some reason the ordering site says it doesn’t fit my car (it does this frequently and may be wrong).
4) What is the part number for the fuel injector seals? Cant seem to find it, is the kit a landrover part?
5) Seems like most people use GM AC/Delco supercharger oil. I see someone on ebay selling Eaton supercharger oil. Would you buy that one?
Supercharger
1x Manifold gasket left (AJ811590)
1x Manifold gasket right (AJ811576)
1x Oil cooler outlet tube (C2Z18658)
1x Oil cooler o-ring (AJ811539)
*1x Throttle body hose (AJ813614) replaces (AJ812140)
1x supercharger spring isolator kit (C2D38554)
*1x Supercharger plenum gasket (AJ811948)
*5.1 Fl Oz supercharger oil (Eaton? GM AC/Delco? Which part number)
Other
*8x fuel injector seals /kits (part number? Is there a landrover kit?)
Oil filter (Landrover part# LR011279)
8L Oil (Liquid Moly, 0W-20) Water distribution pipe (AJ814007) includes coolant temp sensor
Okay all I think my parts list is nearing completion (see list below). I could use a little help with the asterisked items.
1) Is the left valve cover part right for a supercharged XJL 2010? I see it listed as correct for the non-supercharged 2010 XJL.
2) Is the throttle body hose part number correct? It seems to be an updated number from what was posted elsewhere.
3) Indie shop suggested I also get a supercharger plenum gasket. Is that the right part? For some reason the ordering site says it doesn’t fit my car (it does this frequently and may be wrong).
4) What is the part number for the fuel injector seals? Cant seem to find it, is the kit a landrover part?
5) Seems like most people use GM AC/Delco supercharger oil. I see someone on ebay selling Eaton supercharger oil. Would you buy that one?
Supercharger
1x Manifold gasket left (AJ811590)
1x Manifold gasket right (AJ811576)
1x Oil cooler outlet tube (C2Z18658)
1x Oil cooler o-ring (AJ811539)
*1x Throttle body hose (AJ813614) replaces (AJ812140)
1x supercharger spring isolator kit (C2D38554)
*1x Supercharger plenum gasket (AJ811948)
*5.1 Fl Oz supercharger oil (Eaton? GM AC/Delco? Which part number)
Other
*8x fuel injector seals /kits (part number? Is there a landrover kit?)
Oil filter (Landrover part# LR011279)
8L Oil (Liquid Moly, 0W-20) Water distribution pipe (AJ814007) includes coolant temp sensor
The most recent update on the coolant hoses are AJ813565 for the TB to heater hose and C2Z28467 for the thermostat to water pump hose. These both have to be replaced simultaneously as it reroutes the water pump bleed. The GM S/C oil is the exact same thing as the Eaton oil. They just repackage the Eaton oil with the AC Delco name on it. Also, I would do away with the S/C spring isolater and replace it with a solid coupler. It has been an issue for over a decade on factory Eaton S/C's so the best solution is to replace it with a solid coupler.
The supercharger gasket is the right number.The Land rover fuel injector seal kit is the same LR037089. The WSS M2C947 oil speck has been superseded by ford to WSS M2 C945B1. Now Amsoil list an signature oil for the Jag 0w20, Also Mobile1 0w20. Make shure you get the latest tensioner made in Germany get them from Land Rover or Jag not from Ebay.
The most recent update on the coolant hoses are AJ813565 for the TB to heater hose and C2Z28467 for the thermostat to water pump hose. These both have to be replaced simultaneously as it reroutes the water pump bleed. The GM S/C oil is the exact same thing as the Eaton oil. They just repackage the Eaton oil with the AC Delco name on it. Also, I would do away with the S/C spring isolater and replace it with a solid coupler. It has been an issue for over a decade on factory Eaton S/C's so the best solution is to replace it with a solid coupler.
So I don’t assume incorrectly, could you please let me know if these are replacing specific part numbers that are already on my list, or are they additional? Thanks
05-15-2019 | 10:30 AM
