Hi guys,

Noticed smoke coming out of the engine bay and then found a leak point while the engine is hot. Shown in the picture, the hose after it makes the L turn.



Question 1: this is the hose connecting the top of the engine to the reservoir tank, is it C2D6362?
Question 2: the coolant level is low, what coolant should be used to fill it up?

Thanks.

Max

 

Maya404, yes, it would appear to be that part number. As for the coolant, look in the overflow bottle and see what color coolant it is. It should be green, orange, or red (unlikely it is red, but possible). The color is what is key as this is telling you the kind of coolant that you have. From there, the local auto parts store is going to have bottles of coolant sitting on the shelf that the front of the bottle will tell you if it is green, orange, or red. 2 things to watch for: 1) some bottles will be concentrate and others will be 50/50 mix (you want the 50/50 mix), and 2) some will say that they are safe to mix with all colors. I have used it and not had issues, but others have. If at all possible, find the color you need and go with that. Better to be safe than sorry.

If there is no coolant left in the overflow bottle, then you may need to pull a fitting to let a litlte bit of coolant leak out to determine the color. Otherwise, you are going to end up making 2 trips (one for the new hose, one to get the coolant. In a pinch, you could fill the system with DISTILLED WATER (not purified, not tap, not .....) That would allow you to run to the store to get a bottle of coolant if this is your only car. But, if you do this, you will need to drain all the coolant from the engine and then refill with 2 gallons of new coolant (that is how much coolant the system needs). I used to live near you in Bremerton and while it may not get extremely cold, it does freeze in your area and not having the proper mix of coolant to water can lead to issues as things get cold. Hence why I say you can do it, but then you have to drain and refill. The distilled water is also key as there are impurities in other types of water that can lead to increased corrosion of aluminum parts.

If you need more info, let me know.

 

@Thermo Thank you for the detail info.

My plan is to visit the dealer on Monday and purchase the parts and coolant from them. My family has another car so I can use that instead of driving the XJ in a risky state. I bet the price I get from the dealership is a bit higher, but they may have the things in stock and no waiting time needed. I remember the coolant is orange (and I will double check). Just to confirm, with the same colored coolant, I can just add to the system, and there is no need to flush?

 

Maya404, you are correct. Same color, no flush required. Granted, if you haven't had your coolant system flushed in the last 5 years, then this would be a good time to do it. Not that hard. There is a drain on the passenger side of your radiator that you use a large phillips screw driver to open. Catch the coolant. Once no more comes out, close the drain. Refill with 2 gallons of distilled water. Run the car for 5-10 minutes to make sure things are well mixed. Drain again. Refill with 2 gallons of coolant (ie, to where the overflow bottle is at its max fill line) and you are good to go. Just make sure that when doing the final fill, you dump in the coolant, start the engine, then let it run for a few minutes to work out the air bubbles and then top up to the max fill line. May have to add a little bit more in say 20 miles after you give it a good drive, but, that would be normal make up considering what you did and should be nothing to worry about.

 

I fixed it. The part is C2D6362 and I purchased off the counter of the dealership for $50. Then I prepared 2 gal prestone drecool orange coolant for $30.
The harder part of the job is actually removing the broken one because the one clip is blocked by various pipes and lines and the other connector broken inside its socket and took me multiple tries to get it out. .Once the broken pipe is removed, put the new one in is just 3 clicks. And I filled the reservior tank to the maximum line. @Thermo I don't think I need to do a flush now, had the coolant pump replaced under warranty 2 years ago and they have flushed already at that time.
Droved the car locally all the way home and only see small traces of smoke (or steam) at the begining. I guess that is what spilled out earlier and no more spill noticied.
Quite happy with the result, but on the other hand, not sure how many other hoses are in such bad state. Here is the picture of the broken hose, look very brittle to my eyes.

 

That’s the reservoir vent tube and funny thing is that I was able to remove it without breaking it a month ago, but managed to break it taking it off a second time. The connection at the cross over is terribly brittle.

BTW your cross over tube is the two piece variation, meaning you don’t have the updated coolant parts pipe parts, if not leaking yet you run the chance of them leaking during a long road trip. I know the term if not broke don’t fix it but when mine blew I was just down the street from my house it blew going wide open throttle and I could not believe how large the leak was. Unfortunately the supercharger needs to come up to update the Y pipe and the cross over pipe.


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-leak-231757/

 

I had the same coolant expansion tank return tube leak on me too. The biggest annoyance was trying to clean up all the dried coolant. The leak dripped coolant right over the water pump, so every time I took it in for service someone would recommend changing my almost new water pump. Annoying.

I ended up changing my water pump and coolant tube routing when I got the tensioners done. Now I stop getting hassled about it.

 

I dug out the worksheet for the pump replacement 2 year ago and instantly got astonished. The vent hose was replaced at that time and only after 2 years it gone bad. @ricardoa1 The outlet pipe you are referring was also replaced, and the part number they told me is AJ813917.

I am now really having this anxiety when driving the car, super alert about any sound or view that is suspicious. Don't know when the car will fail miserably.

 

Yes with the old style plastic pipes you are just waiting for them to fail.
Replace them with the improved smooth seam plastic parts.
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They must have only done the crossover pipe probably the older version to match the lower Y pipe. To update I believe you need to do both the Y and the crossover and to do that the supercharger needs to be lifted at least partially on the front. There is a O ring collar on the old design. And the new design eliminates the collar. And the pipes just merge together.

 

Good to know! I have only worked on the smooth style.
Thanks for the details.
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I can't believe the work sheet for the pump repair any more. The part numbers for the pipe are revised ones on the worksheet, but they are actually old ones. The coolant they said is JLM209723, a pink one primarily for 5.0, but from my eyes, it is orange in my car. I don't trust this dealer now, I should find another place to get the work done properly.

 

I would not worry about the coolant. Mine runs on orange, but maybe you can challenge them on the repair and see if you get revised ones after getting a little serious with them, might have to pay for a little out of pocket for the Y pipe.

 

I don’t think the overflow tube you just replaced is a high-flow coolant tube, so if it breaks again it shouldn’t kill the car (at least before you notice).

Prestone Dexcool is the correct coolant. It is described as orange or pink, but not green.

I would change the coolant tube routing when you do supercharger maintenance (coupler/snout and oil) at ~80,000-100,000 miles.If you have coolant tubing that breaks before then, do your supercharger maintenance at the same time.

For me, I had a clanking timing chain too, so I chose to do everything at the same time. I did this last year for ~$5k including new injectors, water pump, vacuum pump, valve covers, SC snout, SC oil change, timing chains, tensioners, intake manifold/ SC gaskets, coolant tubes/ routing, and a few other small parts. That was at an independent shop that let me supply my own parts. At the dealership it’s at least twice that cost. It’s a hefty bill, but it’s also a hefty service (>20 hours).

 

Some future coolant problems may be lurking, just under your view scope. Many, many of the coolant lines are located in very difficult places to effect repairs. I would advise you to do some research and envision just what might happen if some or all of the "plastic" water line connections would disintegrate. "Difficult", like needing to remove the supercharger or down under the engine somewhere.. I don't know if it's just the 2013 XJs that have the problem, but it can be expensive.

 

Thanks for the advice. I think what I can do reasonably now is trying to get prepared, but I don't think I will ever come back to the point when driving is a relax.

One or two hoses that are easy to access and I can change them myself. The one requires remove the supercharger and lift the engine, are far beyond my own capability. And as you know, the cost of professional for Jaguar is not cheap. To make things worse, the hoses in my car are only 2 years old. It is unimaginable to replace those hoses every 2 years, and even that can not guarantee it's proper functioning.

Unfortunately I have to say, I am waiting for a time, if this car is completely broken, or if another good car showed up.

 

Old thread admittedly, but great post and bears repeating...

 

Well it is an old thread and I now would recommend using the aftermarket Aluminum pipes if possible. I don't know how far this will go but the failure prone plastic cooling parts are one by one being released in the after market in Aluminum. I just picked up the Aluminum thermostat housing to go along with all my other Aluminum parts.

If we could just get that darn rear water manifold redone in metal for the V-8's!

Surprised to see all this and very glad!
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Indeed, well said Clubairth.... I monitor the coolant every time I start the car, open the hood. I've lost about an inch of coolant in the tank in last 7 - 10 days. No obvious leak. I should get a pressure test doe tomorrow, or the day after... Its a very slow leak, I'm guessing water pump seepage? Especially as many of my plastic pipes have already been replaced.