It was the links you had sent in a previous post. With the info provided in this forum, I should be able to DIY it. I just need to take a weekend and get it done.

 

Glad to hear it and if possible post back how the repair went for the next guy!
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That happened to me also, just not as explosive. Mine was a slooow leak. It happend while 1000+ miles from home. Luckily.... Top off the coolant and could drive for a few days, then refill again. I limped it home. I had all coolant pipes replace. That was a painful service bill.

 

Update: Nothing has changed in terms of working on the car, being that the weather in Central Texas has been, interesting, to say the least (I do not have a closed garage to where I can work on it indoors unfortunately).

On the videos that Dennis black posted, whenever he took the supercharger out, he looked like he replaced the gaskets. Is it a mandatory thing to replace the gaskets on something that is forced induction?

 

It's up to you and the large top cover gasket on the SC can be reused but I would replace all the other gaskets with new.
Not really anything to do with FI it's just what the manufacturer says can be re-used and/or good work habits.
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What other gaskets might I run into whenever I'm replacing the piping? I just ordered the parts and they won't be here until next week, so I just want to make sure I have everything I need to get it back up and running, without having to take it apart again.

 

Absolutely correct. My 07 XJR just had the same thing happen yesterday after a week of not knowing precisely why I had sprayed coolant under the hood and assumed it was a failed coolant cap. New cap didn’t solve it. Then yesterday driving home I drove over rough pavement and the coolant warning came on. Smoke started to appear. Soon after at the next red traffic light the car started to jump in temperature. I turned off the ignition, waited 30 seconds and managed to limp off the road. Waiting 2 hours for a tow from CAA/AAA.

Tow driver checked and the plastic hose leading from the coolant expansion tank and sheared completely off. It must’ve been cracked previously. Right at the point where it was connected to the tank itself. So could not be fixed. Car is at the mechanic currently.

 

I do plan on removing the supercharger out, since I bought the solid coupler. What would be the process of draining the SC oil out? I went to O'Reilly's, AutoZone, and Walmart to look for it, and they didn't have it in stock, and I haven't seen a lot of posts or videos relating to removing the old oil.

 

Everybody uses the AC-Delco SC oil. Cheap and it's everywhere.

If the SC is off the car then you just tip it up and drain it out. Plug is on the back of the SC. The real pain is doing it while it's still on the engine.
As far as gaskets I would replace with new all you take off except what was mentioned above. Now I did not know about that and have the large top cover gasket too.




Item 7-Intake gaskets - Part C2Z17249.
Check that part number to be sure before ordering.
Add the TB gasket too.
If you do the SC snout that uses a special sealant and not a gasket. Jaguar calls for this but others stuff has been used too.
Loctite Gasket maker 515
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I wasn't sure which specific part # I needed for the gaskets, but looking online, I found something close to it. The fitment notes also said it would fit my car. Looking between the two, they look the exact same in terms of hole placement.

Gaskets purchased

Fitment notes

 

Update: I'm getting close to actually tearing the car down and working on it, but I came across a dilemma. Watching the video that Dennis Black sent earlier, there was mention of Supercharger Installation Guide Pins, Looking online for these pins, they cost around $120-156 for 4 of them, which I think is a little bit ridiculous. Are they already installed into the supercharger, or do I have to purchase them.

 

Unless they are damaged you can reuse them.
One tip is to put anti-seize on the pins before re-assembly. Just makes it come apart easier in the future.

Your in Texas so not a salt area and things do come apart better without salt.
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Update: I have everything needed to upgrade the coolant pipes. Gaskets, the aluminum piping of course, coolant, solid coupler, and just in case, all thread screws to bolt the supercharger correctly and flush. Watching Dennis's video again, he didn't show how to change the thermostat housing, and looking at diagrams, I think I have to remove the coolant expansion tank.

Is that the only way to swap out thermostat housings?

Edit: Whenever I do complete this task, should I make a new thread explaining EVERYTHING​​​​​​, or should I just make a post on this thread?

 

Heritage XJR? Just a note but your car is not of this generation and is completely different. I would post in the right forum for better replies?


Thermostat housing is at the front of the engine. I can take that off without removing the tank?
Unless you did something new all this has been documented multiple times as we have several guys trying to make a business out of youtube videos?
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Ah, gotcha. The diagram I looked at was confusing, and someone had mentioned that you would need to remove it, so I wasn't sure. Thank you!

 

Hope to hear you got it all done too!
You will save a TON of money by DIY'ing this.
As you have seen it's not that hard and we have a number of people who have done it to help out.
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JLR recommends using O.A.T. (Organic Acid Technology) coolant for you Aluminum engine. The wrong coolant can actually cause problems for your engine with corrosion or even electrolysis.

Most importantly, don’t mix types. As suggested, thoroughly flush your system before refilling with new coolant. JLR recommends 150K increments but you decide. Others suggest 50K.

I’ve stuck with a JLR's interval recommendation for oil changes and it hasn’t been an issue and I’ve got nearly a quarter million miles on my XJL.

 

Yes plain ole Dex-Cool is what they need.

One big suggestion is if you do not have a vacuum filler. Consider getting one!
I finally got one last year and filling the Jag is one and done now. No air bubbles and the temperature was rock steady from the minute I started the car.
I should have gotten one years ago but was unaware how well they eliminate air bubbles.
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Just out of interest how exactly do you do this? Do have any pics. Where do you pull the vacuum and where do you add the coolant?

I just replaced the water pump on my 20212 XF 5.0NA and I jacked my car up on the front passenger side, removed the vent on the top right side of the engine, set the heater to full hot, filled the radiator from the top rubber hose then added coolant at the header tank until coolant appeared at the vent. replaced the vent cap quickly. I started the engine and watched the ECT go to 194F and then drop back to 186F. I topped up the header tank with about 200ml of coolant. Since then I just completed a 3200km trip to Alberta and added another 100ml coolant when I got here. My coolant temperature was steady at 186-188F on the highway and maxed out at 204F in Chicago morning traffic.