Yea there's not much to it!
Just don't let the container run out of fluid or you will suck air back into the system!
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Yes, that's a nightmare situation to avoid. If you let too much air get sucked in, to do it right, you have to start over by draining the coolant again and then refilling under vacuum. If you try to pull a vacuum again with too much coolant in the system, the coolant will get sucked through the vacuum filler before you can get enough vacuum to refill. That's why I always use a 5 gallon bucket and put more coolant into the bucket than the system holds. It's not that hard to funnel the leftover coolant back into its original container to avoid this problem.

 

UPDATE: HALFWAY THERE

After a little while, I was able to get the supercharger out, but I ran into an issue. The heater pipe in the back. On the LH side of the vehicle, to take the screws off, there's not a lot of room back there, and I'm running into clearance issues. I was able to do the RH side perfectly fine. Looking back at the video that Dennis posted, I went to Home Depot and Lowe's to see if they had angled tools like that, which they did, but they were for bolts and not torx. Any suggestion on how to get those screws out? The tools I was using was a 3/8ths socket drive.

Supercharger: We pulled the supercharger out completely, and in Dennis's video as well, he says to clean it. What's the best way to clean the SC?

One more thing I forgot to mention. When replacing the coupler with a solid one, do I have to replace the throttle body gasket that is attached, and if so, what are the pros and cons of replacing the coupler with a solid one? I know one of the cons is more noise, but that doesn't really bother me.

Angled tool that was used to remove heater pipe in the back

 

I use this little VIM HBR4 ratchet and it makes ALL the difference in the world!
I just did the rear water manifold and symposer removal on my 2014 XJR and yes my hands are still bloody!!




Around $15 and on Amazon and many other places.

With this setup you can even go thinner by cutting the T30 Torx bit down if needed. Your bit shown above should fit this fine.

I like Therock88 threads as I think they are the best.
Have you seen this one?
SC Oil Change and Symposer Removal

Don't know about cleaning the SC itself BUT I would for sure spend some time on the inter-coolers. I use something like Simple Green or Purple Power and let them soak a good bit to help loosen the grime up. It does require some scrubbing and flushing.
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When you say scrubbing, what does that mean? Like scrubbing the front of the intercooler?

I read about the Symposer removal, and I'm wondering if it's already been removed on my car. Looking at the diagrams, I'm not noticing it on my car, interestingly enough. I looked on the back of my SC, and looks like there's supposed to be a hose connected to it, but I don't remember disconnecting a hose, and looking inside what's attached to the supercharger, is solid and doesn't lead anywhere.

As of writing this, I just finished unbolting the heater pipe in the back, but there's a hose on the RH side of the car that is not wanting to be released. I'm going to wait until tomorrow to install the new metal pipe, then hopefully over the weekend, finish the task.

 

Everyone cleans them differently depending on how bad they are?
Here is a thread on cleaning charge coolers and has some good information. Mainly just keep cleaning!
Charge Cooler Cleaning
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Have you guys tried removing the cowl/shroud that runs across the bottom of the windshield, and the right and left secondary bulkhead panels?
If you remove those first, all those parts in the back are much easier to work on.

 

Yes I will be posting a thread on injector/plug replacement in the future. I removed the wipers/cowl and strut rods plus the upper radiator tank. MUCH better access!
The secondary bulkheads are a PIA as everyone else has posted. I did find some clips that have never been mentioned before too?

There are two clips-one on each side that the secondary bulkheads must clip into.
Here is the passenger side one.



I don't think most people have even noticed these and they are probably NOT clipped in correctly!

Here is what I have removed to gain access.




Here is the drivers side secondary bulk head removed. Hard to do!




I would never even attempt any of this without removing the above items. I am removing the Symposer and installing the metal rear water manifold along with the VAP block off plate so rear engine access was critical and I am still bloody and beat from removing and replacing the stuff at the back of the engine. For sure it would be even easier if I had removed the SC but I have another large upgrade coming so it was not removed for this work.
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I was able to remove the cowl, but not the bulkhead panels. I figured since I was going to remove the Supercharger, I would already have access there.

Also how much SC oil should be put into the supercharger?

 

Update: 90% complete. Some concerns

I installed the aftermarket aluminum parts, and there are some concerns I have with one of the pipes. From the looks of it, it is crooked to where it doesn't make a perfect seal around the other aluminum pipe. Will this become a problem?

I am so so close to getting it up and running again. it's just installing the intake, bolting the SC, and putting the belt back on.

Coolant pipe does not sit all the way down. Screws are in the right spot. Defective product??

 

Since you have it all back together, pressure test it to see if it's a problem. You wouldn't want to take it all apart again if it's ok. If you don't have a pressure tester, get one. No one should work on coolant systems without a pressure tester to confirm the work was done right, and it's also necessary to troubleshoot coolant leaks.

Check your expansion tank cap to see what is the pressure rating, and test up to that level. On my 2019, it's almost 30psi!

 

I would, but the metal pipe doesn't sit flush with the y-pipe that's on top of the engine block, so I don't think it would pass the pressure test.

Also does anyone know where I can get a replacement clip for the expansion tank vent hose? It's a little plastic, half-circle attachment that connects from the hose to the Engine Coolant Outlet Flange (AJ813917)? Whenever I dropped it, it fell down to where I thought it would be on the skidplate, but apparently not, and now I don't know where it could've landed.

The connector that is attached to the Engine Coolant Outlet Flange

Edit: I was able to find the connector, but I had to buy a hose assembly, which was only $15 on Amazon.
This was the hose assembly:
When draining the old coolant/distilled water, do I need to remove the entire front bumper, or can I just remove the plastic panel under the front bumper?

 

was this the part you were looking for? (same part for Land Rover and Jaguar)
Land Range Rover Sport LR4 Bleed Plug Water Pump Thermostat Crossover Tube Pipe | eBay

And you only need to remove the under panel to drain the radiator, not the bumper cover.

 

That's exactly the part I was looking for. I just ordered a $14 hose that had it included, so it's no big deal now, but this'll be helpful for any other clumsy people working on replacing the coolant pipes for their XJ

Where on the under panel would the drain plug be? I thought it would be where the radiator is.

 

There is an update to the Jaguar. First off, I do want to say thank you for all of the tips, tricks, and parts listed for this forum. I'm still running into an issue.

Pressure testing the cooling system, I put 20 PSI into the cooling system, and for around 15-20 minutes, there was no water leak, but the needle was still going down ever so slowly. Anything beyond that, was still leaking. My friend is telling me that 20 PSI might be too much pressure into the system that it's causing the leak to happen.
I'm telling him that I replaced the transfer tube from the oil cooler to the water pump, and to replace it, had to remove the oil cooler. I DID NOT have a brand new oil cooler O-ring or Oil Cooler. I'm thinking it's that, because when I first did a pressure test, the heater pipe in the back was still leaking, but that was because I was using the old temp sensor that sits in the back, and the O-ring on that sensor, was torn. Ever since changing that sensor out, there was never a leak in the back anymore.

We practically put the car back together, but I'm not confident in driving it until I figure out what's causing the leak, even if it means tearing the car back apart.

 

What is the pressure rating of your coolant reservoir cap? You coolant system has to be able to take at least the pressure of the cap, or the cap can't do it's job, which is to be the pressure relief for the system before something else breaks. It would be nuts to put on a cap that is rated higher than the components of the cooling system, right? So you should always test to the rated pressure on the cap, or you didn't do the test.

 

Pressure rating on the cap is 200 kPa, which is around 29 PSI, and I pressure tested it at 20 PSI.

 

???
Why did you have to remove the oil cooler?

 

The aluminum piping kit came with a Water Pump transfer tube made out of aluminum that connects from the water pump to the oil cooler, and I figured that whenever I originally took out the SC, there was oil sitting on the engine block. So I thought it was leaking oil from there. Plus that's another spot that some people have said are prone to leaks.

 

Update: Issues with the oil cooler (maybe)

Started the car, took about a couple of cranks, but was able to get it running. I started it because I was thinking if the O-ring got hot, it would expand and reseal itself, without me having to go back into the engine. Still little drips coming from I believe the oil cooler transfer tube.
5 minutes go by, and nothing too serious except for distilled water just leaking. A minute after, I noticed something heavier start falling. Put my catch pan under the car, and it was oil. When I first saw this, I was thinking that some of the oil from the oil cooler went into the coolant lines and that the oil went through the transfer tube, which was causing it to leak oil. Another minute goes by and I look in the back of the supercharger, where the engine block is, and it's COVERED in oil. Turned the car off.

I put a brand new gasket on that oil cooler, so I don't know why it could be leaking oil. My friend just told me to replace the oil cooler. That's the only thing that I messed with, and from the video that Dennis sent, he said he replaced it, along with other users on YouTube that have done this exact same procedure with replacing the coolant pipe in the back. Someone said to use silicone around the entry points to prolong the life of the Oil Cooler, so maybe that's where I messed up, but I'm not so sure.

I only had the car on for about 7 minutes in total, and it got up to temperature. I placed new intake manifold gaskets on the car already, along with the oil cooler gasket. If it was on for that long, should I just go ahead and order new gaskets and replace them? Or do you think it would still be useable?