for a 7 minute run I'd just re use it. I typically replace them when I need to do service intervals and it's being touched under operating temp for awhile.

 

The fuel rail pressure sensor part came in, but I'm running into an issue. I followed NBCat's guide, and how he said it would be on the RH side of the car with a yellow tab, and looking at that side, I'm not seeing anything yellow that is connected to the fuel rail.

I did more research in terms of if the incorrect part was ordered, and when looking online, for my specific model car it's showing Part #AJ813994, that sits on the LH side of the vehicle, next to the oil fill cap. Looking in the back of the engine bay again to see if there are any loose plugs that are not there, and everything is plugged in where it's supposed to be, and nothing seems out of place in terms of electrical connections.

#9 Part AJ813994

In the middle of the photo, there is a hole with threads. No extra plugs.

 

Update: Taking it to a shop on Monday.

This repair and upgrade was a journey, I will say. I learned a lot from everyone here, even though my questions did seem a little repetitive and annoying, but I really do appreciate everything that was posted on this forum.
Here's what happened. I got a brand new oil cooler to replace the old one, and it came with a brand new O-ring, which is what I needed since the old one was not replaced and it was still leaking distilled water. Now the fun part as to why it was leaking oil. The reason why it was leaking oil, was because my silly self forgot to tighten two of the screws that were attached to the oil cooler, and my step-dad and friends did not let me live that down, but they also said they've done something similar whenever they were first working on their own machines, which made me feel a little better, but still. Installed the brand new oil cooler in, and made sure every bolt was on there perfectly. Reinstalled everything how I remember it was, and also turned the Oil Transfer Tube per Dennis Black's video, where it should show a line, facing straight up from the engine bay. Put almost everything back together, besides the belt, intake tube, and fuel rail. As a test to make sure everything was good, I poured half a gallon of distilled water into the reservoir tank to double check and make sure everything was good.

It was not good.

The water started gushing out at the very front of the engine block, and started dripping from the bottom front of the oil pan. The odd thing is, the previous leaks were slow, and I had to pressurize the system, to see if it even was leaking, and there would be fluid sitting on top of the engine block, but there wasn't any liquid on the top of the engine block. I'm thinking that the water pump gasket must've come loose whenever we were replacing the oil cooler.

"The joy of buying a used car." I figured it was about time to take it to a shop with actual mechanics, since there were probably more issues with the car than I was able to notice, but I wanted to get in and get my hands dirty, and learn something new about Jaguar, and cars in general.

The shop I'm taking it to is local in my town, and the most recent report on the CarFax was a service done at the same shop, and they work on Jaguars. A lot of people have gone there for their cars, and a good amount of them had positive things to say.

 

Well we have all been there! It takes some backbone to admit mistakes in public so don't take it too hard either.
Post back how the repairs went and I hope the shop is a good one.
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The repairs they quoted me for a new water pump, and a couple of coolant hoses were $827. Which is a lot cheaper than what I was originally thinking in terms of repairs. I forgot to tell them at the very beginning that I had a CEL, relating to fuel pressure. Went back to the shop again and told them about it, and it was a failing fuel pump, which makes sense, because there was not a lot of power whenever I was driving it around with it still on. They added another $800 for the fuel pump repair. Leaving the office to head back to work, I saw three Jaguars, a couple of BMWs and Mercedes, and one DeLorean, so I felt pretty confident that they would do the work with no issues. Sure enough, they did the work flawlessly, and the car runs better than ever.

 

I have a DeLorean that needs brakes. Where is this shop located?

 

This shop is located in Texas called Foreign Auto Clinic.

 

That's got to be a big relief. You can focus more on enjoying your Jag when you have a comfortable service provider you can count on to take care of maintenance and repair to keep it in good running order..

 

Since this thread started, I've been trying to decide which rear water manifold to buy. Is the one piece the better choice over the two piece? Is there any more experience with the one piece that showed a taper or problem with the casting? Is one of the brands exhibiting problems and should be avoided? Which one to go with: XUNU Parts, Fliben, Luft Meister, etc.? I've purchased the the other pipes and the thermostat housing already and have my shop mechanic who knows my car anxious to use the aluminum parts since he has only installed plastic coolant replacement parts on the AJ 126 & 133 and wants the experience with aluminum parts. Says he's replaced so many that he can do in the dark. Any advice to help choose that back manifold crossover pipe would be appreciated.

 

This is the thread where bydand educated me on the rear water manifold. I have the V-8 so different but still very similar.
This is a very detailed thread where he convinced me to take the 2 piece rear water manifold apart and inspect the insides. It was well worth it and I found a number of tapered passages that I drilled out to full size. Now will that make any difference to the car? I don't know so your decision.
Rear Water Manifold


Since that thread I have installed my modified one. I did have a small seep of coolant at the seam where the screws are but it was just a drop and then no more? So yes there is a danger of creating a leak if you split the manifold to inspect and/or modify it.

So from what I found on mine I vote to get the two piece one. Split it open to drill the passages out AND use the factory seals.





As far as which brand to get I can't say as I used Euro-Amp and got it when it first came out and was much more expensive. Now there is a lot of competition as you post and the prices have dropped a good bit too.
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Thank you, Clubairth1. I appreciate the thoroughness by including that thread from bydand and the heads up on the two piece rear water manifold casting issues & fix. There is definitely some risk to be avoided before proceeding blindly with these castings. Has anyone on the forum installed and provided feedback on the one piece aluminum rear water manifold? I would guess you would have to come up with a scheme to test water flow through all the ports since it can't be disassembled.







thank you